Crank pulley issues

Pete_89T2 · 06-30-2014, 07:21 PM

Thanks guys, pretty much figured all that heat would trash the front cover oil seal & O-ring and plan to replace those. As for the thermal pellet, I'll soon find out if the shop that rebuilt this engine (Hayes) years ago replaced it with the pellet bypass plug like they were supposed to.

I rigged up a length of 2X4 cut to the right length (just under 30" BTW) to floor the clutch by jamming it against the steering wheel. Put a 1-1/4" half-round notch on one end of the 2X4 so it fits nice & snug against the wheel with a piece of rag in there to protect the steering wheel leather from splinters

Good tip on the MAPP gas, I didn't know that MAPP cylinders can be used with a standard propane blow torch valve. Since I'm out of propane anyway, a full tank of MAPP it is!

chibikougan · 06-30-2014, 07:42 PM

Do you even lift bro?

Mapp is now lpg with p or liquefied petroleum gas with propylene.

So propane at around 3450 and new Map-P is around 3600 not the old 5300.

You will still get around 10% more BTU out of the Map-p

chibikougan · 06-30-2014, 11:11 PM

Also if you want to destroy the pulley mount I have a few extra I can send ya one. I also think I have a set of thermal pellet washers too.

Pete_89T2 · 07-01-2014, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chibikougan

Also if you want to destroy the pulley mount I have a few extra I can send ya one. I also think I have a set of thermal pellet washers too.

Hey Chibs, shoot me a PM to let me know how much you want for the pulley boss shipped to 21921. Probably will cost less in the end than buying the right easy-outs or paying a shop to extract the broken studs

RETed · 07-01-2014, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete_89T2

Hey Chibs, shoot me a PM to let me know how much you want for the pulley boss shipped to 21921. Probably will cost less in the end than buying the right easy-outs or paying a shop to extract the broken studs

If Cheebs can't come through, I've got a few laying around too...

-Ted

chibikougan · 07-01-2014, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETed

If Cheebs can't come through, I've got a few laying around too...

-Ted

I should have plenty just need to find a ride to the shop to confirm. Thanks for the backup Ted. I will know in a couple hours.

Pete_89T2 · 07-01-2014, 02:05 PM

Looks like I won't need the pulley boss after all

A friend who works at a local shop let me borrow their drill press & easy outs. I managed to get one of the 4 bolts out without any issues and re-tapped the threads. As for the others, I ended up doing Heli-coils to rebuild the M6x1.0 threads. Everything lines up fine and I tested to make sure the heli-coils hold the bolt torque, so guess I'm good to go.

Since I decided to order a new front cover oil seal that will take some time to arrive, I have one last question. If I temporarily install the pulley bolt now (i.e., torque it down, but don't apply any sealants or thread locker), can I safely remove the 2X4 that is currently flooring the clutch without risking internal engine damage? It's probably not a good idea to leave the clutch floored for up to a week straight. Obviously before I crack that bolt loose again, that clutch will get floored.

06-30-2014, 07:21 PM	#1
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD Posts: 874 Rep Power: 16	Thanks guys, pretty much figured all that heat would trash the front cover oil seal & O-ring and plan to replace those. As for the thermal pellet, I'll soon find out if the shop that rebuilt this engine (Hayes) years ago replaced it with the pellet bypass plug like they were supposed to. I rigged up a length of 2X4 cut to the right length (just under 30" BTW) to floor the clutch by jamming it against the steering wheel. Put a 1-1/4" half-round notch on one end of the 2X4 so it fits nice & snug against the wheel with a piece of rag in there to protect the steering wheel leather from splinters Good tip on the MAPP gas, I didn't know that MAPP cylinders can be used with a standard propane blow torch valve. Since I'm out of propane anyway, a full tank of MAPP it is!

07-01-2014, 02:05 PM	#7
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD Posts: 874 Rep Power: 16	Looks like I won't need the pulley boss after all A friend who works at a local shop let me borrow their drill press & easy outs. I managed to get one of the 4 bolts out without any issues and re-tapped the threads. As for the others, I ended up doing Heli-coils to rebuild the M6x1.0 threads. Everything lines up fine and I tested to make sure the heli-coils hold the bolt torque, so guess I'm good to go. Since I decided to order a new front cover oil seal that will take some time to arrive, I have one last question. If I temporarily install the pulley bolt now (i.e., torque it down, but don't apply any sealants or thread locker), can I safely remove the 2X4 that is currently flooring the clutch without risking internal engine damage? It's probably not a good idea to leave the clutch floored for up to a week straight. Obviously before I crack that bolt loose again, that clutch will get floored.