New fuel setup

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

I've decided to upgrade my fuel again and I have a few questions. I picked up a CJ Motorsports hanger for dual Bosch 044s, and I'm getting the tank-in-tank surge tank from HPP. I'm planning on following this write-up...

Dual Bosch's huh? Did you get the optional muffler device?

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

My concern now is what gauge wire to use, where to find wire, solderless connectors, and hose that can be submerged in fuel, etc. Anyone know where to find that? Paging Brian T...lol

Ok Eric... here are my questions.... when you say bulkhead connector, are you referring to a connector that can be unplugged or are you referring to something that will allow the wires to pass through without breaking the connection? I know Charles uses a GM connector that he machines a lip into for the connector.

I would get in contact with Charles and see what those terminals are rated for and what wire gauge HE recommends. 10Ga is HUGE... most are rated for over 30A! You could run 1 pair of 10ga wires and power both your pumps.

However, if the connector is only designed to accept an 18 or 16ga wire (as mine is) than you have a problem. The solution is to double up on the wires, however I'm not sure if you're going to have enough pins in the socket. Lets say for example that your Bosch pump draws 14A at full song, which is does http://radiumauto.com/media/techarticle-page.php?Radium-s-Ultimate-Fuel-Pump-Test-87, also a nice little bit on the noise level and you have a pin designed for 18 ga wire. Well, that pin and wire combo can only handle about 11A. So, you need to pass 2 wire through for the 12v+ and 2 for the 12v- per pump. A total of 8 wires just to power the pumps. Then 2 more for the sender and the low level.... assuming you're still using them... But, that will give you more than enough current carrying capacity. I you're using a watertight bulkhead passthrough connector, they yeah, rock the 10 or 12 ga all the way through. Personally, I would use a 14ga, but that's me. 14ga is good to 17 or 18A. People start using ridiculously sized wire because they use cheap shit, don't know better, or just don't like working with the smaller wire. I was rewiring a bunch of shit last night to clean it up and I was getting annoyed with some of the 22ga wire in my harness. A lot of people use 14 wire to power their inejctors.... I use 20ga. This is all Tefzel though... ETFE I think... Which is what I would be running in the tank.

The Bosch's have studs on them. So really any eyelet will work, just bolt them down using the supplies nuts. They are two different sizes though, just be aware...

If you need to make an electrical butt connection in the tank, you'll need some Viton heatshrink. Shit aint cheap, I can't remember where I bought it from.

All the wire and connectors can be had from ProWireUsa... talk to Joe, he'll get you all set up with everything you need.... he may even have the heatshrink, although I think I bought mine through MoTeC when I got my bulkhead connector.... Lemme see if I can dig up some pics of my fuel cell setup... they're on a different laptop, but they're also in one of my build threads... yeah... that's like 200 pages to go through... lemme see what I can find...

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

I'm also thinking about trying to use some new, larger hard line from the rear to the engine bay like I've seen a couple people do on here. And I'm wondering what else I need for running dual pumps...check valves, which Y fitting to get (6ANs to 8AN, or if I can do 6ANs to 6AN without damaging the pumps with back pressure or whatever), etc.

If it we're me... I would skip the check valves and run two separate and independent lines, one feeding each of the rails, and then join them at the regulator. And I would use -6 if going that direction. If joining them, I would run a -8.

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

Yeah I've seen people modify the stock hangers with bulkhead connectors but I figured the connector on the CJM hanger might be upgraded enough to handle the extra amps. I definitely want to make sure to use some submersible wire if it's available.

I would talk to Charles to see what those pins are rated for.... you may be disappointed in what they can actually carry...

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

OK cool. I'm gonna have to see if has a check valve. There is a piece bolted into the outlet but I'm gonna have to remove that to get them to fit into the hanger.

I believe the Bosch pumps do have a check valve... but I'm not sure if its a check valve that will hold the full pressure that the pump will put out. It may only hold like 10 or 15psi to keep a little fuel in the line to aid in start up.

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

I'm not worried about the Y fitting costing more, I'm just thinking about the added work of running a larger line all the way to the front haha. I plan on doing it at some point, but if I can wait to do it I might do that.

FWIW - I made 540 RWHP on an FD running 1 Stealth 340 and stock lines. Would I do it on my car? No... just saying...

I remember reading something about submersible line, but can't find it now.

To my knowledge, the only real submersible fuel line is the pushloc stuff offered by Aeromotive. It's the same material through the hose from the inside out. So if it's designed to handle fuel on the inside, it'll handle it on the outside as well. That's what I ran and 5 years later, it still looks great.

Now.... lemme go find some pics