Fenda's uber garage Engine Build

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I'm all about just get the fucker running as quickly as possible and make other adjustments down the road. You can accomplish the same with a torque brace like I did... I run MS mounts and my brace, no vibrations and no movement

Retaining the OEM mounts and getting the Banzai Tranny mount is def an option, I've just been waiting for FFE to get their mounts into production since I first saw them in the conception phase... I figure since I'm on hold for money right now anyway, and it wouldn't kill me to wait a little bit longer to get the mounts I want on from the get go... Why even fuck around with the possibility of needing to reseal the pan if I swap into the mounts I want 6 months after installing the engine?

I can be patient, VERY patient, when it comes down to it...

Last year I rushed it and now I'm paying for it.

Originally Posted by Brian

Kewl... there are some nice mounting options out there....

Yeah, and I figure the Optima Red Top will be more battery than I need...

Originally Posted by Brian

Very cool... most people don't think that far in advance... none of you have ever met Alex..... there's a reason for that

I try to be considerate, and I've seen you, Glenn, Jenn, and Ted bitch enough to know better than to be "that guy"... especially not with somebody I like

Originally Posted by Brian

The majority of the work gets done nights, occasionally I'll break away for a few hours during a weekend day....

Yeah, I know... sucks, but it is what it is and I'll deal

Originally Posted by Brian

That's just a waste at this point.... personally though I would've kept it and bombed around @ 12-14psi until the rest of the car was sorted, did the LR and a new turbo/mani/exhaust and then rocked from there..... but that's me....

Yeah, that was the plan... and then the day after DGRR happened

Originally Posted by Brian

Pretty sure Levi stripped out the ABS

I haven't yet, though I would really like to during this down period. I just need to pull information an organize a how-to/DIY so I can get it done in my garage, but NOT pay like $250 for a premade "kit" that is just $100 in line/fittings and a couple valves.

Originally Posted by Brian

and I think I even advocated upping the LR to have the TC.... I'm going to look into putting it into the FB that should be here soon.... DBW, TC... in an FB... yeah.... now were talking

You and/or Glenn did suggest getting the TC option but I opted out since it's not likely something that I will *need* at this time...

[Fendamonky]

Some more pics of the strip down...

Good rotor:



Nice chunk of bearing I found inside the center iron



Rear side of the center iron






And... On to the carnage...

The front Rotor









Front side of the center iron (the one that apparently took contact from the rotor tips, though I don't see or feel any evidence of damage there)





That rotor again.. Bloody bearing tried to crawl RIGHT out!!





Poor E-shaft...

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Retaining the OEM mounts and getting the Banzai Tranny mount is def an option, I've just been waiting for FFE to get their mounts into production since I first saw them in the conception phase... I figure since I'm on hold for money right now anyway, and it wouldn't kill me to wait a little bit longer to get the mounts I want on from the get go... Why even fuck around with the possibility of needing to reseal the pan if I swap into the mounts I want 6 months after installing the engine?

Because if you seal the pan properly it's not going to leak swapping mounts

And you already have some sort of tranny brace don't you?

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Yeah, and I figure the Optima Red Top will be more battery than I need...

I hate optima's..... but there aren't really any choices when relocating the battery inside the vehicle... I may do a wet battery in a sealed yet vented battery box the next time I relocate a battery... fuck.... the walmart special that's been in the 8 for 4 years is the best battery I've ever seen.... it's been run down to like 3 volts more times than I can remember and it always takes a charge... yet the $200 Optima needs to be replaced every year... go figure...

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I try to be considerate, and I've seen you, Glenn, Jenn, and Ted bitch enough to know better than to be "that guy"... especially not with somebody I like

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I haven't yet, though I would really like to during this down period. I just need to pull information an organize a how-to/DIY so I can get it done in my garage, but NOT pay like $250 for a premade "kit" that is just $100 in line/fittings and a couple valves.

That may be another time when it'll be cheaper to buy it... the mastercool flaring tool is like $400 after all is said and done....

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

You and/or Glenn did suggest getting the TC option but I opted out since it's not likely something that I will *need* at this time...

Yup.... everyone mocked me for my traction control years ago, now everyone's jumping on that bandwagon

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Some more pics of the strip down...

Good rotor:

Nice chunk of bearing I found inside the center iron

Rear side of the center iron

And... On to the carnage...

The front Rotor


Front side of the center iron (the one that apparently took contact from the rotor tips, though I don't see or feel any evidence of damage there)

That rotor again.. Bloody bearing tried to crawl RIGHT out!!

There's damage somewhere... I think I can see a few spots... it should go to Chip.... just saying...

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Because if you seal the pan properly it's not going to leak swapping mounts

And you already have some sort of tranny brace don't you?

I have Garfinkles oil pan brace, which should further help with the lack of leaking

I do have a tranny brace currently, though it's a solidly mounted piece and it transfers a decent amount of noise... I actually just agreed to sell it to Vlad to use in his track car.

Originally Posted by Brian

I hate optima's..... but there aren't really any choices when relocating the battery inside the vehicle... I may do a wet battery in a sealed yet vented battery box the next time I relocate a battery... fuck....

Yeah, last thing I want is a battery leaking all kind of awkward gasses 2 feet from my head

Originally Posted by Brian

That may be another time when it'll be cheaper to buy it... the mastercool flaring tool is like $400 after all is said and done....

I'll just make better friends with the CE HVAC guys on base...

Originally Posted by Brian

There's damage somewhere... I think I can see a few spots... it should go to Chip.... just saying...

I've already spoke with him I kicked him an email the same night I saw the bad rotor...

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

There's damage somewhere... I think I can see a few spots...

Nothing a little sandpaper won't fix...

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I have Garfinkles oil pan brace, which should further help with the lack of leaking

I've never had a problem with pans leaking.... just use the right stuff

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Yeah, last thing I want is a battery leaking all kind of awkward gasses 2 feet from my head

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I've already spoke with him I kicked him an email the same night I saw the bad rotor...

So it's going to him then?

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

So it's going to him then?

Yeah.

[Fendamonky]

I figured I would throw some more pictures of the damage up... I took the keg down to the hobby shop last weekend and gave it a nice bath in the parts wash station...

Here's the front side of the center iron. There are some visible marks in it, but nothing that you can really feel or catch a nail on.













The front iron has some marks where I guess the rotor made contact. Again though, it's nothing that you can really feel.






I guess I came out rather well, all things considered

[Fendamonky]

So... I stacked up my keg today for the next installment of my neverending rebuild I'll get some pics and video up when I get a chance.

Since I did the rebuild by myself this time I wasn't able to get as many detailed pictures of the stacking process.

[chibikougan]

Noi..pics awwwwww..

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by chibikougan

Noi..pics awwwwww..

Monday morning was lazy, and AWESOME!! Spent a bit of time making the rotors up, primarily just ensuring that none of the side seals would bind in the corners. I'm reusing the seals and clearances that Brian and Mike set originally, so no real worries there.



Later in the day I painted the engine (flat black) and washed my car.


Tuesday was a fun one... I started off by doing a brake job on the bimmer (rear pads and rotors) and kinda retarded out.. I normally do work like that at the hobby shop on base. A) I didn't have a big enough hammer, and B) I left my parking brake on because I was working on a slight hill and I forgot that you need to release that to remove the rear rotors.. I fucked with the bimmer for about an hour or so then said screw it and started on the engine.

The stacking began pretty straight forward, the FSM in pdf format on a tablet is a godsend!!



This was by no means a typical shop rebuild this went down in the front of my (messy) garage, I moved the bike out for space and was using the top of my recycling bin as a staging area.. anybody wanna take bets on my engines surviveability in comparison to say.. some "Precision Rotary" professionals on the other site??



Don't mind the mini screw driver above, I was using that to help convince the apex seals to settle all the way down and below the edge of the housing.



I ran into one major hiccup.. as I was lowering on the center iron, by myself (THAT is a bitch!!), it got bound on the upper dowel. I had a minor freak out (the two other times I've seen an engine go together that didn't happen) and called the two people I know and trust to stack a motor.. Glenn and Brian. I'm actually glad it bound... Bianca got home as I was fretting over it and I decided to just pull the iron off and try it again, with a second person.. I'm glad it bound because at that point I realized that I had 2 oil seals and 3 water seals left!!!! In my haste to get the iron on I forgot to put the water seal in so... lucky me!

ANYWAY!! That bit done, everything went pretty straight forward... This is my last pic of the stacking, I'll snag some of the keg tonight when I do the front stack.



And a little video of my hand cranking it (there was only one leading plug installed here, all the rest were out)

FD motor, freshly stacked:

[GySgtFrank]

It's looking good. kudos.

[Fendamonky]

Thanks Gunny

Yeah, I can't stress enough how GLAD I am to have the FSM downloaded If I were trying to do this on the fly I'd have been FUCKED!

[chibikougan]

Noice!

[Prodigy]

I lay all my seals out so when im done if I have any left over I know I need to pull it apart... sucks to, but better then once it's in the car...

Good job, wanna see vids of this thing roping around


J.