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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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#1 | ||
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Join Date: Mar 2008
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In fact, I heard a rumor that if you order a new counterweight from Mazda, the part is identical for all FC years and the part #'s are identical - the new counterweights are NOT drilled, and you had to get them balanced yourself??? As a general rule for the counterweights - the S5 had more holes drilled in them versus the S4. I weighted them once, and the difference was 0.2 lbs., which was the increment on my 100lbs. max digital scale. ![]() So I think the difference will be a matter of ounces and even down to grams...? Quote:
I have NEVER seen a groove worn into the metal like that in my life. Did you get an explanation for the groove? That might wreck the rear oil seal? -Ted |
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#2 | ||
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Since concerns have been raised, it was also painted, which I planned on lightly sanding off, but it has a small notch in it also. Is that small ding enough to cause balance issues? ![]() ![]() I assume that taking it to a machine shop would then affect clearance between seal and counterweight?
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1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas Last edited by JustJeff; 03-01-2013 at 07:25 AM. |
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#3 | |||
RCC Addict
Join Date: Mar 2008
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I just saw that black line and went *WHAT?*. So the black line is caused by paint? There should be no other reason why such a black line be on that part of the counterweight due to normal use. I'm also a little bit worried about you stating: "if you run your finger over it you can barely feel it." It's in constant contact with a silicone oil seal that's rotating. It it were a perfect world, that area should be smooth. A slight imperfection could easily destroy the oil seal in short order. ![]() Quote:
There are vendors that offer (re)balancing services if you're that worried. Quote:
Explain the situation, and they should be able to give you an answer? A competent machine should know proper clearances for this application with this type of seal... -Ted |
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#4 | ||
RCC Contributor
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Sorry about the confusion, the whole flat side of the weight had been painted (poorly) in silver. The line is actually a shinny ring. It doesn't make a groove, just a different texture. I posted pics on "the other" forum and a couple of experienced members pretty much said "no big whoop", that it's normal wear. I contacted the seller and was of course told, "I assure you it works perfectly, I was using it on my engine with no issues"
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1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas |
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#5 |
RCC Addict
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
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The seller is an idiot for painting that part in the first place...
I would try and strip away the paint before installing. Even paint chips that can possible flake away can chew up the rear oil seal. You don't want to be replacing just that seal if it does fail. ![]() -Ted |
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#6 | ||
RCC Contributor
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 505
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I wish there was one voice of opinions spoken about that ring on the counterweight. It makes me nervous thinking about the nightmare a failed rear main would cause me. Other than choosing the flywheel the engine is ready to be assembled. I'll probably assemble it the week after this week. I'm in school for a 2nd degree and midterms are this coming week.
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Quote:
1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas |
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