Fenda's uber garage Engine Build

[Fendamonky]

Anyway... Pic dump time!! I think the last pictures posted are from when we were still putting the oil pan on.

So here's a shot with the pan and engine mounts on. I've been holding on to these stock mounts for several years now. I went from damaged stock mounts to a set of Banzai's poly mounts (which were nice) then I switched over to a pair of solid aluminum mounts (which were not so nice) when the turbo side banzai mount began to warp.

So here I am, back to good condition stockers: I wanted to see what all the fuss was about



Garfinkle's Oil Pan Brace fit on like a charm!



And everything sitting there, patiently waiting to be installed..



We got the engine in and the turbo fitted:



When I bought my copper clad exhaust nuts I accidentally bought the wrong size So I had to put the manifold on with generic autozone nuts. Once the correct ones got in I swapped them out though.



And there she sat... patiently waiting:



I completely scrapped all the factory hard lines, and made new fuel lines from the tank to the injectors and back again. I used -8 lines to feed the engine, and -6 on the return. I went with the FuelLab filter that, following my buddy Vlad's suggestions, I mounted to the rear subframe between the fuel tank and the subframe, just above the differential.

Sorry for the shitty pictures, there wasn't much space to get a decent angle from:



Here's the inlet side of the filter:



I used a scrap piece of aluminum to mount my filter onto, then I cut a couple slits into the plate and used worm clamps to attach it to my subframe.

WAAAYYYY too much rust on that mounting arm for my diffuser I'll really need to pull everything out, brush it down, and coat it all one of these days..



Some pics of the feed and return lines running under the car:





The engine bay finally starting to look like an engine bay again:



We opted to go with nylon braided fuel lines for the majority of the routing inside the engine bay. I'd hate for any fuel line flex to cut through stuff...



Also, some last minute fitting/routing changes sent me off to the "local" performance shop about 20 miles away... 5x -6 fittings (in the wrong color, lol) cost me well over $160, but nobody ever said that doing a badass build (the RIGHT WAY) was cheap...

Here's a look at the parallel fuel lines routed the way we wanted them, just waiting on the UIM and FPR. The steel braided line is the return line going from the FPR back to the tank.



Those are Brian's hands, probably around 3am, making sure my AST lines are fit correctly in the two highest points in the engine (we'll be adding a third AST feed line in the top of the radiator).



Speaking of the radiator... Here's the little tiny hole that brought the operation to a halt, having us all wait until yet another weekend to take this little project for her first drive.





And.... The (mostly) finished project!






We started the car (she fired right off on the first try :happy_dance:, yay!) at about 6:30am on Sunday after beginning work at about 11am on Saturday. Needless to say it was a LOOONNNNGGGG weekend! But, with the engine firing right up and sounding very nice I'd say it was worth it.

Ideally there will be one more session which (unless I do convert the radiator to -16 lines right now) will entail lots of grabassery, some light mechanical work, and initial road tuning (you GTFO of here Mr. Murphy!!!)

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

So yeah, I'll order 4x of the -4 male weld on fittings: 2x for your cache, 1x for my AST, and 1x for my radiator.

Hold off on the order till we figure out this AST/Tstat combo dealie...

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I do really like the idea of ANing the radiator... However I think that may be a better project for later down the road. I think it may be more prudent to just get he going with what we currently have. My hose setup right now works, it's just not as sexy. I'll survive with the non-sexy, yet functional, for the time being.

If you're thinking about doing it, do it now while its out and dry... no sense pulling the whole front end off again, draining the coolant, going through all that shit and welding up modifying the AST to fit, spending moneys on fittings twice etc etc etc etc.... j0o do it ONCE

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

However.... If you wanna cut up and weld into the AST/t-stat housing while it's up there... That I wouldn't protest too much.

Yeah........... I'll give you a call Friday on my 4.75 hr drive to RI to figure it all out if we haven't hammered it out via txt tonight and tomorrow and Friday

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I'm thinking the radiator hole came from a dropped

Hence the teflon hands comment

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Levi, it sucks that screwdriver hit were it did. Little to left or right no damage at all. Glad you found a place to get it fixed. Let me know if you need a hand with the slave cylinder. I have done more than a few over the years.

Yeah...... I would say deffo get Jack to help if you've never done one before....

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

In a thread jack Brian what type of coils did you say to get for the 8? Time for something new for DGRR.

The QuickSilver coils... I would get them from Chris Ludwig of LMS-EFI dot cum or something similar is his website... stout fucking coil for sure...

Other option is the Bosch Motorsports coils from FFE... they are not as powerful, but the packaging is MUCH nicer....

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I just might take you up on that offer since I don't recall having done it myself before. I'll get the car off the ground again and give it a shot myself first though.

Do it.... shit isn't natural.... probably a good thing that I forgot my small prybar there.... that will more than likely be used

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Anyway... Pic dump time!!
work, and initial road tuning (you GTFO of here Mr. Murphy!!!)

The more I look at it.... that fucking AST horseshit needs to fucking go......

Also adding the AST/T-stat combo will eliminate the hooky ass 5/8" barb to 3/8"NPT to 3/8 NPT tee to 5/8 barb to 3/8"NPT to 5/16"barb to 3/8" NPT fitting that needs to be constructed in the heater core return line near the turbo..... just saying... one more benefit