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Old 01-29-2013, 09:44 AM   #1
TitaniumTT
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FRA-497104 *3 for the AST
SUM-220071 *1 for the rad
SUM-2200075B *1 for the return line in the tank (used from my personal stash)

and then the -4 fittings needed for the line from the rad to the AST, I'm thinking a straight on the rad, and a 90* on the AST given where it's being welded

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Old 01-29-2013, 12:16 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
FRA-497104 *3 for the AST
SUM-220071 *1 for the rad
SUM-2200075B *1 for the return line in the tank (used from my personal stash)

and then the -4 fittings needed for the line from the rad to the AST, I'm thinking a straight on the rad, and a 90* on the AST given where it's being welded.
Ok, so I'm looking at the stuff on Summit right now, why the SUM-220071 on the radiator? Wouldn't it make more sense to have a male bung welded on? That way we could just use a standard -4 AN hose end..

Also, I had originally ordered 2x of the FRA-497104's, they came in the same box as the rest of the -4 stuff. I'll double check in the boxes downstairs to be sure we didn't accidentally overlook them.

And I'm kinda thinking of just going ahead and -16ing the radiator right now, as the shop will already be welding on it... If I do that than I think I'll make two separate orders, one for coming here, and one going there.
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:38 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Fendamonky View Post
Ok, so I'm looking at the stuff on Summit right now, why the SUM-220071 on the radiator? Wouldn't it make more sense to have a male bung welded on? That way we could just use a standard -4 AN hose end..
Because it make pressure testing the rad that much easier.

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Originally Posted by Fendamonky View Post
Also, I had originally ordered 2x of the FRA-497104's, they came in the same box as the rest of the -4 stuff. I'll double check in the boxes downstairs to be sure we didn't accidentally overlook them.
Did not see anywhere

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Originally Posted by Fendamonky View Post
And I'm kinda thinking of just going ahead and -16ing the radiator right now, as the shop will already be welding on it... If I do that than I think I'll make two separate orders, one for coming here, and one going there.
If you're gonna do that, you're also going to need the -16 AN fittings welded onto waterpump housing as well. And if you're going that far, you might as well get rid of the T-stat housing and build a combo t-stat housing/ AST tank as opposed to the hooky way it's going to be mounted now.

Personally, I would do it that way..... oh wait... I am doing it that way on the 'vert I would've done it that way on the FC but didnt' really have the room because VMIC.
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DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:52 PM   #4
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I would've done it that way on the FC but didnt' really have the room because VMIC.
I've seen you fit more in less space
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