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| RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. | 
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		#1 | 
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			 Sigh..... 
			
			
			
				
			
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				Heat Shield vs. Turbo Blanket
			 
			
			
			I recently turboed my N/A and now I'm looking to get it track ready.  Part of my concern is heat, notably the turbo.  The two affordable options I've found are using a turbo blanket and/or using a heat shield.  The factory used heat shielding so I can presume that's a good option, however they also designed the system so it would last for 20 years and be super reliable, rather than possibly the best option for someone who puts about 1500mi/year on the car. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Thoughts? 
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	1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."  | 
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		#2 | 
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			 Professional Stick Poker 
			
			
			
				
			
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			http://www.isotechinc.com/foamed-aluminum.html 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			This stuff would make great heat shielding. No real experience with it though.  
		
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	1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585  | 
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		#3 | 
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			 Don Mega 
			
			
			
				
			
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			Over the years I have used everything and will offer this experience of mine. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			On manifold DO NOT use heat tape or wraps, on my own car I fabricated a two piece stainless heat shield (see my build thread). My previous cars on all kinds of manifolds even with low use heat wrap KILLS pipes on turbo rotaries... Dump pipe is the same, I use a stainless heat shield only, tired wraps and loose fitting ones but it kills pipes too. On the turbine housings, it is 100% fine to use a turbo blanket. The DEI ones are pretty good, the thick cast iron is impervious to the retention of heat, but is can warp the housing, so if you have time and space it is preferable to make a heat sheild here too.......... just some can't. its the only area thermal insulation like a blanket should be used if needed. That is my expereince anyway. 
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		#4 | 
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			Thanks for the info.  So basically don't wrap anything except the turbo, and make a bunch of heat shields?
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."  | 
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		#5 | |
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			 Don Mega 
			
			
			
				
			
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		 Quote: 
	
 heat wise heat shields work excellent, the hard bit is making them in the first place  
		
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		#6 | 
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			 Sigh..... 
			
			
			
				
			
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			I noticed on your build it seems that there's some sort of wrap on the manifold, but only on the top part of the pipes and on the joints?   
		
		
		
		
		
		
			For reference of others, this looks like it's a shot from underneath the car (or at least underneath the engine as it might not be in the car yet).  
		
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	1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."  | 
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		#7 | 
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			 Don Mega 
			
			
			
				
			
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			Very old pics from about 5 years ago, lots of iterations since then. Need to take some new ones. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			The heat shield remains, no loose wrap sheets anywhere on any pipes, only a bag on the turbine housing (currently use a DEI one). 
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		#8 | 
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			 Don Mega 
			
			
			
				
			
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			But yes pic from underneath on a dummy engine when I was fabricating and placing parts for welding etc. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			the header heat shield is fully sealed to the motor and the turbine flange, takes a fair bit to make it this way and must be done in two pieces, made out of 316 and bolted together and held on top side by EGT bungs on each pipe. The down pipe shiled is held by the AFR sensor, agian no pics of this only old ones. 
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		#9 | 
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			 Sigh..... 
			
			
			
				
			
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			Great info.  Thanks.  Sounds like I have some work cut out for me.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."  | 
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		#10 | 
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			 Don Mega 
			
			
			
				
			
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			All these little "anal" details make the difference. Even on my water and oil lines its all insulated with silicon jacketed hose insulators etc. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			The difference is in hot ambient conditions you can just drive at low speed or stationary and not tax the shit out of the cooling system, the water temp and oil temp and pressure stays consistent and little is radiated back to the block or inlet manifold or cooling system parts, and you notice the BIG GAINS as ambient temperature is increased. My car runs perfectly in 35 deg C ambient weather and climbing hills, most cant do this at all without over heating or generally shitting themselves. All those little bits of heat shields and insulation of pipes etc all needs to be done, and it is done on any good factory turbo instilation ............ its just after market leaves a bit to be desired and most resort to ghetto heat tape lol 
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		#11 | |
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			 I have Ultra power in me. 
			
			
			
				
			
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		#12 | 
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			 Fired up! 
			
			
			
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			Water injection should help with the exhaust temps too, right?
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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		#13 | 
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			 Sigh..... 
			
			
			
				
			
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			Does anyone have a recommendation for heat shielding tape for things like radiator hoses?  I've found some but the reviews are mixed with several saying the adhesive separates from the material.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
	1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."  | 
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		#14 | 
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			 Don Mega 
			
			
			
				
			
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			I'll share this nugget with you and others. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			98% of all driving in a road car is cruising, when a car is tuned correctly at stoich mixture the exhaust gas temperature is near 800 to 850deg C or so (otherwise its not efficient and wasting fuel) and the air flow is low so heat is fairly high and unrelenting. Water Injection is not operating at this level as the load is very low and its not required. So it has zero effect. A turbo car needs heat shielding and insulation of parts effected by radiant heat. Otherwise the cooling system will be taxed and this gets amplified as you increase the ambient operating temperature. 
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	www.riceracing.com.au Worlds best Apex Seals Coil on Plug Water Injection ECU Calibration  | 
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		#15 | |
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			 Don Mega 
			
			
			
				
			
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		 Quote: 
	
 ![]() It's made in England the stuff I use, need to go back and look through records and find where I got it. But no good quality stuff will not be a problem. 
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