Great, another V8 FC drift car build thread :/

StephenSheppard · 11-18-2012, 06:50 AM

The top radiator support is just there for a locating / referencing point mostly. I may or may not cut it out. Rememeber I'm building all this stuff with no engine in the car, so you sorta need to know where some things are at least lol. If I keep it I will of course make it less flimsy.

Cost of this? I don't have a clue. I always go to far and I always spend too much. I'm not much of a budget building kind of person. Mine won't be cheap, someone else could make a running car pretty quickly if the car was already painted, hadn't been wrecked in the front end, etc. To give you an idea I have a $220 battery (AGM) in like a $150 battery box, or whatever it costs with all the parts lol. You get the point I think.

Even though this car is probably destined to be totalled I still don't have the ability to let myself slap it together and not care what the outcome looks like.

StephenSheppard · 11-19-2012, 09:12 AM

I'm not sure what the deal was, but photobucket was being weird for a day or so and not letting me upload anything.

Anyways here's a couple terrible pics of the little sub harness I made from the diagram up there^. I did however decide to add an additional connector that the 12V for the and start signal would be terminated in. makes the harness easier to take apart, install, and troubleshoot. Should a problem arise.

In these next two pics there are no pop-in ziptie holders or anything since I still have to paint the engine bay. Also the red pass thrus remember are mounted to the backside of the firewall not the front like the picture. Just kind of put it there for explanation's sake is all.

I borrowed a little flux core wire feed welder to start tacking stuff together for the front end. Don't judge me :P lol

All that will be finish welded. It all unbolts from the front of the car. At the tow hook position and the swaybar position. Obviously not finished yet but I needed to get that put together so I could start mocking up the radiator mounting stuffs.

Basically there's a piece of 1" angle iron bolted to the swaybar bracket holes, then the square tube comes up and meets it there. I finish weldign this thing off the car. I'll try to remember to weigh it for those thinking it's super heavy or whatever. The point of this is two fold: First it should be strong enough to make up for me cutting the cross tube out of the front there, and 2nd it holds the back of the splitter up and a panel in place to keep stuff from bouncing up into the engine bay. Anti-intrusion guard if you will.

Lastly there's how the radiator will be approx. Basically it has to stay behind the blue tape marks (Measured off of Big Josh's car in the pictures above) and under the radiator support. To be sure it clears the main pulley on the engine and the hood at the top / front. It will be a bit lower and more angled of course. it's just leaning on the bumper for the picture since I had yet to make something to actually hold it up.

I'll be trying to get the radiator mount stuff sorted today. But I need to run to the junkyard and measure some Camaro intakes and such to see what I have for clearance between the top of the engine and hood. Luckily we just put my factory hood on Josh's car a couple days ago so I have measurements from his for maximum height and all that.

I've decided this thing is going to be fuel injected. Now to decide which intake to use. The TPI one, or LT style, or Holley aftermarket, or Edelbrock aftermarket one. They reallly all come out about teh same in cost in the end, So it's more a matter of powerband and fitment really.

Here's a pretty cool page I found of some pretty decent testing on a 383 SBC:

http://xtremecarzone.com.au/index.php?showtopic=386

11-18-2012, 06:50 AM	#1
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	The top radiator support is just there for a locating / referencing point mostly. I may or may not cut it out. Rememeber I'm building all this stuff with no engine in the car, so you sorta need to know where some things are at least lol. If I keep it I will of course make it less flimsy. Cost of this? I don't have a clue. I always go to far and I always spend too much. I'm not much of a budget building kind of person. Mine won't be cheap, someone else could make a running car pretty quickly if the car was already painted, hadn't been wrecked in the front end, etc. To give you an idea I have a $220 battery (AGM) in like a $150 battery box, or whatever it costs with all the parts lol. You get the point I think. Even though this car is probably destined to be totalled I still don't have the ability to let myself slap it together and not care what the outcome looks like.

11-19-2012, 09:12 AM	#2
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	I'm not sure what the deal was, but photobucket was being weird for a day or so and not letting me upload anything. Anyways here's a couple terrible pics of the little sub harness I made from the diagram up there^. I did however decide to add an additional connector that the 12V for the and start signal would be terminated in. makes the harness easier to take apart, install, and troubleshoot. Should a problem arise. In these next two pics there are no pop-in ziptie holders or anything since I still have to paint the engine bay. Also the red pass thrus remember are mounted to the backside of the firewall not the front like the picture. Just kind of put it there for explanation's sake is all. I borrowed a little flux core wire feed welder to start tacking stuff together for the front end. Don't judge me :P lol All that will be finish welded. It all unbolts from the front of the car. At the tow hook position and the swaybar position. Obviously not finished yet but I needed to get that put together so I could start mocking up the radiator mounting stuffs. Basically there's a piece of 1" angle iron bolted to the swaybar bracket holes, then the square tube comes up and meets it there. I finish weldign this thing off the car. I'll try to remember to weigh it for those thinking it's super heavy or whatever. The point of this is two fold: First it should be strong enough to make up for me cutting the cross tube out of the front there, and 2nd it holds the back of the splitter up and a panel in place to keep stuff from bouncing up into the engine bay. Anti-intrusion guard if you will. Lastly there's how the radiator will be approx. Basically it has to stay behind the blue tape marks (Measured off of Big Josh's car in the pictures above) and under the radiator support. To be sure it clears the main pulley on the engine and the hood at the top / front. It will be a bit lower and more angled of course. it's just leaning on the bumper for the picture since I had yet to make something to actually hold it up. I'll be trying to get the radiator mount stuff sorted today. But I need to run to the junkyard and measure some Camaro intakes and such to see what I have for clearance between the top of the engine and hood. Luckily we just put my factory hood on Josh's car a couple days ago so I have measurements from his for maximum height and all that. I've decided this thing is going to be fuel injected. Now to decide which intake to use. The TPI one, or LT style, or Holley aftermarket, or Edelbrock aftermarket one. They reallly all come out about teh same in cost in the end, So it's more a matter of powerband and fitment really. Here's a pretty cool page I found of some pretty decent testing on a 383 SBC: http://xtremecarzone.com.au/index.php?showtopic=386