Great, another V8 FC drift car build thread :/

StephenSheppard · 11-12-2012, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sephitrask

The fab work on that kit looks very good, looks like a pretty nice kit

It's quite good. I'm pretty happy with what they send you. And I'm pretty picky about stuff like that usually. I'd recommend it to anyone honestly.

StephenSheppard · 11-12-2012, 07:01 AM

Here's the radiator and fan setup from my 13B that I will recycle for the V8 swap. It holds the temps down on a 13B at 7000rpm+ on 105 degree days for hours on end.......it should be more than enough for the 350. It's one of the last ISC FB radiators modified to fit the FC chassis after I took it out of one of my FBs. Buick Century fan is a pretty serious fan. It cut the fan cycles in half or less (Temp controlled switch via a relay), in comparison to a regular 16" fan. Also the radiator is a double pass which gives the coolant some time to slow down and dissipate heat. I had no such luck with Koyos and stuff like most people run. Also a 22psi cap helps

It's going to need to move forward in the chassis quite a bit judging by Josh my buddies car. Approx. 6-8" forward. It's too tall to stand up right. It would stick about 2-3 inches out of the bottom of the car.

Here's what's hiding under the front bumper. An old repair from a collision with an immovable object while street drifting. That was dumb. I don't street drift anymore because of that lol. I threw this together to get the car drivable at the time.

NOM NOM. That frame rail was way worse. I straightened it with a 12lb sledge hammer a bit lol. I use the term straightened very loosely.

Just terrible.

Out comes the sawzall and the cut off wheel. On a side note my old HF sawzall pulled itself apart and caught on fire while cutting the passenger side frame rail lol. It only made it about 1/2 way through and then destroyed itself. Pretty cool.

Just a little bit of the bent part left. I can work with this now.

What it should look like.

StephenSheppard · 11-12-2012, 07:11 AM

The other day I was sanding and cleaning and got bored with that. So I wandered off and started building this pass thru deal for the starter and alternator cables. It will mount on the inside of the firewall where the factory engine harness passes through the grommet hole. More on that later as the car progresses.

Btw you can buy those at VTE Warehouse, just Google them. They have lots of useful stuff.

Normally I wouldn't share that but like I said the company is closed so full disclosure.

Also my website is purely informational now and has a ton of cool stuff on it. Still in progress as there is so much stuff to upload yet. If you need to know part numbers for factory connectors and stuff for some of the Fc stuff you can find them here at the bottom of the page, the links under parts lists. Then look through the PDFs for what you need. Some of the connectors don't have links to purchasing locations due to the volume needed to buy them, but the part numbers are provided so you can Google them should you be lucky enough to find a few loose items out there in the interwebz.

http://www.rotaryrelated.com/FC%20Race%20harness.html

StephenSheppard · 11-12-2012, 07:18 AM

Also made this dude for the driver's side grommet hole where the front wiring harness will pass through. It's painted black now like the one for the other side just no picture, I think you get the idea though. It's for a Molex XRC connector set. Has the anti rotation jam built in. The hole was achieved with a printed paper template, a drill bit, and a die grinder. It's just aluminium so it took like 5 minutes to make. Bolts up to holes I put in the chassis already like the other side.

You can find those at www.waytekwire.com and lots of other websites. The hole is cut for the 31 position connector. Which is more than adequate for the little amount of stuff I'm using.

Scraped all the chaulking from the engine bay. I can't stand how it looks. I know I'm wierd and my car will probably rust in half because of it, whatever.

The interior is a train wreck right now. So much stuff to change, build, fix. New gauge cluster, new electrics for the whole chassis, cleaning, etc. At some point a roll cage has to get in here. So I'll have to notch the dash for that as well. I'm not sure what will come first. Still trying to figure out who's going to build what on this thing. Pretty much everything in that picture goes in the trash lol.

StephenSheppard · 11-12-2012, 07:49 AM

So my old sunroof plug was leaking a bit. So I fixed it.

Still need to trim off the excess silicon and finish painting the roof. The reason there's over spray on the windshield is because it's cracked and being replaced so there was no reason to care really.

StephenSheppard · 11-12-2012, 08:04 AM

I don't like the door panels in my car because they are terrible, plus they had to go to make room for the roll cage. Here is my journey:

Started here with a modified T2 panel for window roller duty. has a hole cut in it due to the door not unlocking one time lol.

Everything must go!

Rivenuts for attaching the cards.

A crushed one. Basically they just clamp the material like a rivet. They are very secure if installed properly.

I used a piece of acrylic (Plexiglass) for the door card template, because it's cheap and transparent.

Temporary hardware for fitting. Yes my temporary hardware is stainless steel. I told you I have a problem

Cut the template up some more. The band saw works pretty good on this stuff. Oh I forgot to mention the sunroof is Lexan (Polycarbonate) not Acrylic. You'd have to have a death wish to use Acrylic there. If it shatters which it probably would it could saw your head off. No biggie, moving on.

Attempting to get the door release handle hole situated.

Window roller hole looks about right.

Giant piece of aluminium for the actual door cards. I was originally going to use ABS plastic but then I remembered I didn't want to be sliced to pieces if it shattered so I didn't.

The next bunch of pics were off my cell phone because the camera battery died, sorry.

Here's a nearly finished door card fitted.

Then I was coming up with possible door handle pull options. this ones pretty simple and very sturdy. I may go with it, but I still haven't decided yet.

The passenger door is super easy because the template is already made. Punched out the factory clip holes to the size for the rivenuts, bolted up the template, marked the other holes. drilled those, put the rest of the rivenuts in. Boom! done.

Passenger door just before drilling the second set of holes. Also all this gooey black stuff needs to be removed so I can repaint the door. Plus I don't want it to get all over everything.

StephenSheppard · 11-12-2012, 08:21 AM

I'll have to post pictues of the finished door cards when I get them squared away. They will be covered in Di-Noc or painted with black wrinkle finish paint. Still undecided. Had an issue with some "Di-Noc" I bought from a dude on ebay. It was not 3M Di-Noc and it was junk so, I'll order some real shit and see what it's like instead.

Plan B isn't bad looking either. I've done a couple cars with the wrinkle finish black and it looks really good.

11-12-2012, 07:18 AM	#4
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	Also made this dude for the driver's side grommet hole where the front wiring harness will pass through. It's painted black now like the one for the other side just no picture, I think you get the idea though. It's for a Molex XRC connector set. Has the anti rotation jam built in. The hole was achieved with a printed paper template, a drill bit, and a die grinder. It's just aluminium so it took like 5 minutes to make. Bolts up to holes I put in the chassis already like the other side. You can find those at www.waytekwire.com and lots of other websites. The hole is cut for the 31 position connector. Which is more than adequate for the little amount of stuff I'm using. Scraped all the chaulking from the engine bay. I can't stand how it looks. I know I'm wierd and my car will probably rust in half because of it, whatever. The interior is a train wreck right now. So much stuff to change, build, fix. New gauge cluster, new electrics for the whole chassis, cleaning, etc. At some point a roll cage has to get in here. So I'll have to notch the dash for that as well. I'm not sure what will come first. Still trying to figure out who's going to build what on this thing. Pretty much everything in that picture goes in the trash lol. Last edited by StephenSheppard; 11-12-2012 at 07:23 AM.

11-12-2012, 07:49 AM	#5
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	So my old sunroof plug was leaking a bit. So I fixed it. Still need to trim off the excess silicon and finish painting the roof. The reason there's over spray on the windshield is because it's cracked and being replaced so there was no reason to care really. Last edited by StephenSheppard; 11-12-2012 at 07:57 AM.

11-12-2012, 08:04 AM	#6
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	I don't like the door panels in my car because they are terrible, plus they had to go to make room for the roll cage. Here is my journey: Started here with a modified T2 panel for window roller duty. has a hole cut in it due to the door not unlocking one time lol. Everything must go! Rivenuts for attaching the cards. A crushed one. Basically they just clamp the material like a rivet. They are very secure if installed properly. I used a piece of acrylic (Plexiglass) for the door card template, because it's cheap and transparent. Temporary hardware for fitting. Yes my temporary hardware is stainless steel. I told you I have a problem Cut the template up some more. The band saw works pretty good on this stuff. Oh I forgot to mention the sunroof is Lexan (Polycarbonate) not Acrylic. You'd have to have a death wish to use Acrylic there. If it shatters which it probably would it could saw your head off. No biggie, moving on. Attempting to get the door release handle hole situated. Window roller hole looks about right. Giant piece of aluminium for the actual door cards. I was originally going to use ABS plastic but then I remembered I didn't want to be sliced to pieces if it shattered so I didn't. The next bunch of pics were off my cell phone because the camera battery died, sorry. Here's a nearly finished door card fitted. Then I was coming up with possible door handle pull options. this ones pretty simple and very sturdy. I may go with it, but I still haven't decided yet. The passenger door is super easy because the template is already made. Punched out the factory clip holes to the size for the rivenuts, bolted up the template, marked the other holes. drilled those, put the rest of the rivenuts in. Boom! done. Passenger door just before drilling the second set of holes. Also all this gooey black stuff needs to be removed so I can repaint the door. Plus I don't want it to get all over everything. Last edited by StephenSheppard; 11-12-2012 at 08:17 AM.

11-12-2012, 07:01 AM	#2
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	Here's the radiator and fan setup from my 13B that I will recycle for the V8 swap. It holds the temps down on a 13B at 7000rpm+ on 105 degree days for hours on end.......it should be more than enough for the 350. It's one of the last ISC FB radiators modified to fit the FC chassis after I took it out of one of my FBs. Buick Century fan is a pretty serious fan. It cut the fan cycles in half or less (Temp controlled switch via a relay), in comparison to a regular 16" fan. Also the radiator is a double pass which gives the coolant some time to slow down and dissipate heat. I had no such luck with Koyos and stuff like most people run. Also a 22psi cap helps It's going to need to move forward in the chassis quite a bit judging by Josh my buddies car. Approx. 6-8" forward. It's too tall to stand up right. It would stick about 2-3 inches out of the bottom of the car. Here's what's hiding under the front bumper. An old repair from a collision with an immovable object while street drifting. That was dumb. I don't street drift anymore because of that lol. I threw this together to get the car drivable at the time. NOM NOM. That frame rail was way worse. I straightened it with a 12lb sledge hammer a bit lol. I use the term straightened very loosely. Just terrible. Out comes the sawzall and the cut off wheel. On a side note my old HF sawzall pulled itself apart and caught on fire while cutting the passenger side frame rail lol. It only made it about 1/2 way through and then destroyed itself. Pretty cool. Just a little bit of the bent part left. I can work with this now. What it should look like.

11-12-2012, 07:11 AM	#3
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	The other day I was sanding and cleaning and got bored with that. So I wandered off and started building this pass thru deal for the starter and alternator cables. It will mount on the inside of the firewall where the factory engine harness passes through the grommet hole. More on that later as the car progresses. Btw you can buy those at VTE Warehouse, just Google them. They have lots of useful stuff. Normally I wouldn't share that but like I said the company is closed so full disclosure. Also my website is purely informational now and has a ton of cool stuff on it. Still in progress as there is so much stuff to upload yet. If you need to know part numbers for factory connectors and stuff for some of the Fc stuff you can find them here at the bottom of the page, the links under parts lists. Then look through the PDFs for what you need. Some of the connectors don't have links to purchasing locations due to the volume needed to buy them, but the part numbers are provided so you can Google them should you be lucky enough to find a few loose items out there in the interwebz. http://www.rotaryrelated.com/FC%20Race%20harness.html

11-12-2012, 08:21 AM	#7
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	I'll have to post pictues of the finished door cards when I get them squared away. They will be covered in Di-Noc or painted with black wrinkle finish paint. Still undecided. Had an issue with some "Di-Noc" I bought from a dude on ebay. It was not 3M Di-Noc and it was junk so, I'll order some real shit and see what it's like instead. Plan B isn't bad looking either. I've done a couple cars with the wrinkle finish black and it looks really good.