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Rotary Tech - General Rotary Engine related tech section.. Tech section for general Rotary Engine... This includes, building 12As, 13Bs, 20Bs, Renesis, etc...

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Old 10-13-2012, 04:57 PM   #1
RICE RACING
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grizzly View Post
It was set up by a Rotary specialist in the UK.

Have this video too if it helps

I watched you video.

The real reason is the Air Fuel mixture in the mid range once the turbine is at full speed / full boost is it has too much excess fuel and this drowns the engine and your tq and thus power curve.

The HKS DLI is a gutless piece of shit to be using on a water injected car PERIOD. If you need to keep it you will make another 50+rwhp more at the same boost by setting the AFR at a much more correct rate, assuming you have the right amount of WM50 going through the engine.

For street cars and conventional set ups > There is a sweet spot on AFR that starts around 10.8:1 anytime you are below this you end up with dis proportionate power losses, and this explains your DIP *YOUR TUNER SHOULD KNOW THIS!* (NOTE). ***There is no magic answer though for this for people who want to copy or recite the info*** each and every set up is different as is the application, some I run AFR in the 8's or below! that an AFR instrument wont even properly measure the figures! and that is with water injection as well. But do you want to make 1100bhp from a 13B reliably using petrol??? are you running a spark system you could weld with??? Do you even need to consider such things?????

If it bothers you then chase it, if not you will not fuck the engine because of it, just means it is a very safe set up, that is leaving a fair chunk of power on the table. The way it is it could run with or without the Water Injection so without knowing your personal situation that could be just what you want rather than chasing every last HP so you can compare cock sizes to random fagots on the interweb of gayness
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Last edited by RICE RACING; 10-13-2012 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 10-13-2012, 06:42 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by RICE RACING View Post
The HKS DLI is a gutless piece of shit to be using on a water injected car PERIOD.
I know a guy that sold me one of these and said it would be fine....
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:45 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Mazdabater View Post
I know a guy that sold me one of these and said it would be fine....
LOL

Up to 20psi and with the right excess fuel ratio they work

When you want to roll with the big boys then its total arse
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Old 10-13-2012, 11:17 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by RICE RACING View Post
LOL

Up to 20psi and with the right excess fuel ratio they work

When you want to roll with the big boys then its total arse
I am thinking about getting your water injector kit for my FC after we noticed that my TMIC with my cheap carbon fiber hood is basically useless.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:17 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by RICE RACING View Post
If it bothers you then chase it, if not you will not fuck the engine because of it, just means it is a very safe set up, that is leaving a fair chunk of power on the table. The way it is it could run with or without the Water Injection so without knowing your personal situation that could be just what you want rather than chasing every last HP so you can compare cock sizes to random fagots on the interweb of gayness
Thanks for the Reply.

I understand the Map is going to be on the safe said but i'm just a little upset that the dip hasn't been tuned out tbh, if you look at the lower plot lines they are without WI and using a PFS SMIC as opposed to the Blitz FMIC that’s on it now, you can still see the dip in a similar place which is why i thought it may have been a fault with something rather than the tuner didn't bother to smooth it out.

I don't pretend to know much about the tuning side of things which is why i use a Tuner

Last edited by Grizzly; 10-14-2012 at 05:26 AM.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:42 AM   #6
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In that case I apologize for my comments as it looks like then it is not the WI causing your dip.

Need to look into it further to see what is ultimately causing it.
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