Dealership Can't fix my problem :-(

[NYCGPS]

Originally Posted by okc_rocker

OK, I took my 2004 rx8 (100,000 miles) to the local mazda dealership. I had them install race headers, catless pipe, and full catback exhaust. I also had them install an ACT streetlite flywheel. While it was in the shop they replaced the starter as well. Here's the problem, car starts fine, idles at 1,000-2,000RPM's upon start for the first minute, then idles at 500RPM's. After about 5 mintues of driving, everytime you stop the car the engine dies. Starts back up just fine though. The dealership told me that the flywheel I ordered (13lbs.) is way to light for my engine and that is why the engine dies at every stop...This is a huge annoyance and I do not believe that this could be the problem, I've called 3 renowned Mazda tuning shops and they all said the flywheel being the problem is impossible. I also called 3 other import tuning shops and they said the exact same thing. I even called ACT and they said, their flywheel can't be the problem of the engine dying. Could somebody please help me out with this?

Fuck that dealership, I hate how ppl knows completely nothing about cars (not just Rotary) are working on cars @ dealerships

again, has Nothing to do with Lightweight FW nor a goat nor Jesus.

Your Engine is on it's way to heaven. I've been there and done that, you should have check compression before you dump all the money to Replace those stuff

Originally Posted by vex

I'd check for vac leaks.

It's not vac leaks. Vac Leaks will give him CEL fast. System runs lean.

Originally Posted by Pete_89T2

It's not the flywheel, that's for certain. Frankly I'd question the competence and reputability of the Mazda dealership you brought it to. Based on your post, I see several red flags that lead me to think these guys are shady. First, why did they replace your starter - was it broken or causing problems? No need to do so given the job described. Second, by doing the full job described (i.e., presumably by chucking your cat(s) to replace with headers & catless pipe) they intentionally run afoul of federal laws against tampering with emissions gear, irrelevant if you ordered them to do the work or not. Reputable dealerships generally don't do this sort of thing, even on a car that's got 100K miles or is out of warranty.

Mazda updated the Starter around late 2005, With a faster spinning (stronger motor) version, instead of 1.4KW, it's rated at 2.0KW (actual power is around 1.7-1.8kw)

Back to your question, I'd start looking for any & all electrical connections or vacuum hoses that may have been distrurbed during the course of the work. My guess is you'll find something they forgot to reconnect or may have broken. I'm not too familiar with the RX8, but the work done requires removal of LOTS of components to do the job. Does your check engine light (CEL) come on, or did you try reading the CEL codes using an OBD-II code scanner in case the CEL isn't on, but codes may be stored?

Nope. wrong.

Originally Posted by djmtsu

He probably had the original, recalled weak ass starter. I would (and did to mine ) upgrade to the new one. Makes the car start immediately.

And yes, it sounds like it has a vacuum leak or something. However, if that was the case, you should have a light on. If you don't, I would still hook it up to a scanner that can read real-time data from the ECM.

When was the last time (if ever) you cleaned the throttle body?

They get pretty gunked up form the PCV system. I know mine ran a shitload smoother once I took mine off and cleaned it.

there was NEVER a recall on the starter, Mazda simply updated the part with a newer one, if u had the original 2004 to Early 2005 Starter, you can replace it when u were under b2b warranty.

otherwise, just buy a 2007+ starter, replace it, and call it a day.

Originally Posted by LunchboxCritter

Did they replace the counter weight when they replaced the flywheel with a light weight one?

Originally Posted by Sephitrask

I would think that it would be VERY obvious if they did not put on a counter weight. If I remember correctly, the counterweight is actually a part of the stock flywheel, so if they just put on a flywheel and no new weight at all the engine would prolly run like crap.
Definitely sounds like a vac leak, or something not plugged in right. Start at the front of your engine bay and check every connector to be sure they are connected correctly and completely. Then follow every vacuum line, making sure they are connected at both ends.

Jesus people, do you even know what you guys are talking about? seriously.

there is no "Replace counter weight with a light weight one", Counterweight is part of the rotating assembly. you cannot , repeat, you CANNOT replace it with another "lighter weight" one, it will completely throw the balance off and there for, kill your engine. That's why getting the CORRECT counterweight for your car is very important. RX-8? just get a RX-8 Counterweight. FD and S5 FC uses the same counterweight, S4 has it's own, and so and so.

Not to mention, you simply CANNOT mount an aftermarket flywheel WITHOUT the use of the counterweight.

Also, there is NO counter weight on stock cast iron flywheel, simply because stock flywheel is so fucking heavy it can balance anything the front of engine has. RX-8's stock flywheel is still the lightest Stock Flywheel out of all Rotary engine cars tho (about 16 lbs total)

Stock Mazda PCM will need about 2-3 drive cycles to build LTFT and STFT for it's closed loop operation, that explains why some cars will experience these "hopping idle" after the car is warmed up. it's actually normal. after it completed it's FT building, idle will be stable or throw a CEL.

If you have no idea what Closed Loop/Open loop is, lemme give u guys a lesson.

put it at layman's term, Open loop is the PCM(Computer) has a pre-determined table that throws fuel before the car is completely warm up, Just like if you're super good at typing, you should be able to type blindfolded, right ? but on the other hand, because you are blindfolded, there is no way to tell if you typed something wrong. correct?

this is what Closed loop comes in, after the car is warmed up (CAT temp above 500 Celsius I think, and Coolant above 150 or 60 Degrees F), The ECU will use the Oxygen Feedback from your Front O2 Sensor to build a "Fuel Trim". that's like taking your blindfold off to type, now you see everything, you know what you did wrong, but it's a brand new keyboard and you need some time to get used to, after a while, u are so used to the keyboard, instead of typing 50 words a minute with couple errors here and there, now u can type 100 words a minute with maybe just 1 or 2 errors.

Get it ?

Originally Posted by mfisher12

check compression

what sup dude, lol