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Rotary Tech - General Rotary Engine related tech section.. Tech section for general Rotary Engine... This includes, building 12As, 13Bs, 20Bs, Renesis, etc... |
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#1 |
Gold Wheels FTW
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 744
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The rotor shouldn't be making contact with anything other than the misc seals (apex, side, corner, etc). If it is making contact with the epitrochoid, then you have other very serious problems... I do think they will be too light for street use. I'm curious to see what the dyno says and what the RPM response rate looks like both on accel and decel.
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My Cars: 1974 RX4 Coupe 1991 FC3S RX7 - Sold 2003 ZZW30 MR2 (Rotary swap after RX8) 2004 SE3P RX8 (20B Swap in the works) |
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#2 | |
Sigh.....
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 2,377
Rep Power: 20 ![]() |
Quote:
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
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#3 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Eagleville, TN
Posts: 2,267
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I believe it's more of a concern with the rotor touching the irons, not the epitrochoid. If all is clearanced, shouldn't be a problem but if not that is when galling starts.
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1993 Yamaha GTS1000 1992 Celica Turbo AllTrac 1987 RX7 Sport 1979 Yamaha G1, KM24 powered 1975 Dolmar KMS4 |
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