The Number One Reliability Mod for the Rotary Engine.

[rxspeed7]

I think the reason for the material increase in that are was to use it as a heatsink to pull heat away from the sparkplug area.

Barry, you don't by chance have any of the sae papers for these changes do you? I'd love to read them.

[mattallac]

Maybe it will work ,I hope it does . One way or another its still an innovative idea.

[RICE RACING]

I've been building and tuning some of the worlds most powerful true street rotaries for 20+ years ......... I've never really had this "issue" personally nor seen on engines running in the upper stratosphere of power I am used to obtaining that have been tuned and set up correctly (eg, non BDC or HC tuned or built lol).

It must be more of a thing seen by people who have poor cooling systems? or *stupid* AFR settings the would over heat any engine (even at far less power).

Put in a decent radiator
Do proper exhaust shielding
Keep water temperature at 77~78deg C
Use AFR of 10.8:1 @ full load
Use water injection
Use Mazda Factory 2mm apex seals

You wont have any of these "problems"

However, I have seen these marks with brand new rotor housings using inferior after market apex seals and springs (to stock) on a few engines built by experts that I have had here after only completing run in of 600miles! (engines never been boosted or seen over 5000rpm) and power levels less than 150bhp....... much more from the apex seal not staying in contact with the rotor housing than anything to do with heat or distortion of the housing.

I 100% agree with Libor, get a handle on your coolant temp and you wont have these issues, in my experience, also use stock Mazda 2mm apex seals as they are most compatible with rotor housings and actually seal far better on the rotor housing in this area especially.

[RETed]

Just trying to think outside the box...

How about we just drill through the rotor housing and just add an extra coolant line?
I've seen this done to oiling systems on 13B's but not for the coolant system...
Adding an extra coolant line into the area would:
1) add more coolant if the system can handle it, and
2) create more turbulent flow due to the "cross flow"


-Ted

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by RETed

Just trying to think outside the box...

How about we just drill through the rotor housing and just add an extra coolant line?
I've seen this done to oiling systems on 13B's but not for the coolant system...
Adding an extra coolant line into the area would:
1) add more coolant if the system can handle it, and
2) create more turbulent flow due to the "cross flow"


-Ted

I highly doubt temp is an issue at all, you only need to look at the body of the spark plug and the FACT that carbon so readily builds up there, any meaningful heat would mean no carbon would accumulate there, it is much more a sign of a mismatch of apex seal materials, after market "modifications" lol or springs used by some people where the apex seal starts to lift off the rotor housing well before the spark plug hole you see it on some engines you don't see it on others.

That area on the leading plug is very cold (look at the amount of carbon accumulated on the spark plugs for verification of that fact) much more so than on the trailing plugs which are shielded

It's just the apex seal decides to jump off the housing and this is exaggerated by crap tunes especially ones relying on methadone injection (borderline detonation machines) that are causing apex seals to bounce all over the place

You see many "precision" self called "shops" wont even use new rotors let alone rotor housings in their builds and they wonder why they get odd wear patterns on the pieces of garbage they self assemble and post all over the internet and theorize as to why they get fucked up wear patterns in engines, let alone how they tune them, or what temperatures they run at.... it laughable at best, disturbing at the least.

[RICE RACING]

After Market apex seal after a few hours


Stock apex seal after thousand hours

[RICE RACING]

People need to look up conduction, convection, & radiation. Do some basic experiments of you own "at home" you will see water flow is not your problem at all.

Apex seal materials, springs, and tuning + theology to certain rubbish set ups are the single biggest reliability issues in rotaries.

Use the right parts
Keep the "whole motor" cool
Keep the inside of it cool (correct tuning)

And you will not see these carbon wings lol, be it at 200bhp or 1200bhp on a 13B (all on stock std 13B-REW rotor housings)