The Official FC Radiator Thread.

[RETed]

For my car, I had to cut the flange off the stock radiator mounts.
I had to bang the existing sheet metal just a little here and there to get the fit to be tight - keep in mind, tight is good to keep air flowing around the radiator.

Stock battery must be relocated; the stock battery tray gets in the way.
I've heard of people using really tiny gel-cell's, but I don't like running small CCA rated batteries in my street car; these set-up's notch or modify the stock battery tray.

It's a really really tight fit.
The rad cap is the closest thing to the stock (turbo ) hood.
We drop the rad until the radiator cap barely clears - like 1/4" clearance.
Yeah, the bottom of the rad ends up slightly lower than the oil cooler, but the front sway bar / engine subframe sits about the same or slightly lower.


-Ted

[FC3S Murray]

S4 Koyo WITH corksport fan shroud and low mile OEM viscous fan. Custom ducting for RAD and OIL COOLER off of the FMIC.

My temps at idle with brand new OEM water thermo sensor and prosport gauges: 80*C/176* F

Cruise/light load: 78*C/ 172* F, sometimes 77* C if above 40mph for sometime(no freeways in Montana and havent took her on the highway yet to see ducting efficiency)

Constant atmospheric pressure pulls: 80*C

When I actually start boosting I will record results BUT my last motor doing 4-5 constant 4th gear WOT pulls on the highway for tuning, my temps never went above 85* C with the same radiator. MIND YOU this was before my ducting too, ambient temp that day was 62* F.


I really believe in what Brian said about ducting. It works wonders.

[vex]

Originally Posted by RETed

For my car, I had to cut the flange off the stock radiator mounts.
I had to bang the existing sheet metal just a little here and there to get the fit to be tight - keep in mind, tight is good to keep air flowing around the radiator.

Stock battery must be relocated; the stock battery tray gets in the way.
I've heard of people using really tiny gel-cell's, but I don't like running small CCA rated batteries in my street car; these set-up's notch or modify the stock battery tray.

It's a really really tight fit.
The rad cap is the closest thing to the stock (turbo ) hood.
We drop the rad until the radiator cap barely clears - like 1/4" clearance.
Yeah, the bottom of the rad ends up slightly lower than the oil cooler, but the front sway bar / engine subframe sits about the same or slightly lower.


-Ted

Cause for the life of me I can't seem to figure out a way to squeeze it in height wise. I have plenty of room from side to side. A picture or two on how you mounted yours would go a long way I figure.

[vex]

I'm looking at picking up one of these radiators for a new mounting scheme (minimizing intrusion into the engine bay)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AF...N/?image=large

Yea, or nay?

[TitaniumTT]

My buddy has a Summit rad (griffin) that he'll probably be selling. PM me if you're interested. Brandy new, never used. Lemme know if you're at all interested.

That Afco one looks nice though....... mmmmmm doublepass

[vex]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

My buddy has a Summit rad (griffin) that he'll probably be selling. PM me if you're interested. Brandy new, never used. Lemme know if you're at all interested.

That Afco one looks nice though....... mmmmmm doublepass

I only do double passes now. Makes the temps go down compared to stock. I'm hoping for it for Christmas.

[vex]

Alright I did some more searching:
Yea or Nay on these (I'm wondering if they have enough surface area):
http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatec...r_dbl-pass-rad

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AF...N/?image=large

A little help will go a long way on this. I'm trying to do a perpendicular mount without intrusion into the engine bay area.

[Shainiac]

The first link is the radiator I am using. It us plenty big. My car is mainly a street car and it almost too big for that. I am on my third OEM thermostat. The thing keeps the t-stat cycling so much that it eventually wears out and stays open. I've had a large piece of cardboard in front of it for the majority of winter and still never use the fan unless Im in bumper to bumper traffic. Both of those rads you have listed will take a bit of work to get installed. with my 26"x 20", I had to relocate the battery, make mounting brackets, and fab a 1-3/4 to 1-1/2 adapter with a 3/4" barb for the heater return. I really need to take pictures and post them, but Im ashamed of my leaky front cover and excessive blow by mess. When it warms up, I might do a little cleaning and snap some pics.

[Mazdabater]

I'm running a PWR radiator. Works like a champ, probably too expensive for the average fc owner but I'll have the car running in 2 or 3 months if you want some data on it