Go Back   Rotary Car Club > Tech Discussion > RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92)

RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.


Welcome to Rotary Car Club.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-28-2011, 07:54 PM   #1
JustJeff
RCC Contributor
 
JustJeff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
iTrader: (1)
Posts: 505
Rep Power: 17
JustJeff is on a distinguished road
Default Middle Iron Corrosion

I was doing final assembly, got to the middle iron and noticed corrosion. I have no clue when or how it got there. At first I thought it was damaged when I knocked the iron over and onto some tools while putting the front rotor in.

After closer inspection and even testing a bad iron by pushing it over onto the same tools. I found that it wasn't damaged when it fell over. The only thing I can think is that I sprayed all the parts off on Sunday. After sitting for almost 2 years they had gotten dusty, spider nests, etc.

I tried cleaning the surface with some paint thinner but it won't come off. I can feel the marks with my finger. Obviously I'm concerned how they will affect compression?







My thoughts are that they must be from hosing the parts off a couple days ago. I did not coat them with anything afterwards I was expecting to do the rebuild Sunday. It has to be recent, I can't believe that I'd miss something like that.






__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by yzf-r1
Take your pathetic ultimatums and stupid "AOL" comments and shove them straight up your ass, you little punk. You avatar is gay as well....

1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas
JustJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2011, 10:47 PM   #2
NoDOHC
The quest for more torque
 
NoDOHC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin
iTrader: (1)
Posts: 855
Rep Power: 17
NoDOHC will become famous soon enough
Default

The oil film should mostly fill that corrosion near the port, although it is a crying shame that you didn't get some WD40 or oil on the housing right away to prevent that from happening.

I would be most worried about the corrosion in the oil control ring region. It appears that you used some type of water-based solvent to clean the housings, as the corrosion seems to track a drip path.

Good center housings are about $50 on eBay typically. NA center housings are pretty common.
__________________
1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers)
1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)
NoDOHC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2011, 05:01 AM   #3
RETed
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
iTrader: (1)
Posts: 1,813
Rep Power: 18
RETed will become famous soon enough
Default

You can typically knock off this kinda of "surface rust" with some light oil and a fine grit sandpaper.
This should not affect compression in any way.
This is the good news.

The bad news is that Mazda gas-nitrides those surfaces for wear.
Rust will usually eat through this gas-nitride surface, causing accelerated wear on the housing.


-Ted
__________________
reted_2000@yahoo.com
Technical Advisor
FC3S Pro
http://fc3spro.com/



Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
because you're only as good as your backup
RETed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2011, 06:46 AM   #4
To_Slow
Rotary Fanatic
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Shelby Twp MI.
iTrader: (1)
Posts: 315
Rep Power: 17
To_Slow is on a distinguished road
Default

Wee here at ChipsMotorsports.com can surface grind and re gas nitrate the plate for you.

Pics with info http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ead.php?t=3109

Pricing http://www.chipsmotorsports.com/serv...d-re-nitriding

Hope this helps.
Chip U
__________________
My link
To_Slow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2011, 01:44 PM   #5
JustJeff
RCC Contributor
 
JustJeff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
iTrader: (1)
Posts: 505
Rep Power: 17
JustJeff is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoDOHC View Post
The oil film should mostly fill that corrosion near the port, although it is a crying shame that you didn't get some WD40 or oil on the housing right away to prevent that from happening.

I would be most worried about the corrosion in the oil control ring region. It appears that you used some type of water-based solvent to clean the housings, as the corrosion seems to track a drip path.

Good center housings are about $50 on eBay typically. NA center housings are pretty common.
Yeah it is a shame, I had a friend on his way to help with the assembly. I washed everything off thinking assembly was going to start within an hour or two. Friend gets a flat on his way, it's Sunday so he had trouble getting a replacement tire for a long drive after helping me out. I did give some thought to recoating the irons for overnight...but again thought the assembly was happening the next day. When another roadblock happened it didn't happen Monday, but thought it would happen Tuesday.....frustrating to say the least.

The only things I used to clean any of the engine parts was Simple Green, acetone, when I ran out of acetone i switched to paint thinner. I did spray them down with water Sunday.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
You can typically knock off this kinda of "surface rust" with some light oil and a fine grit sandpaper.
This should not affect compression in any way.
This is the good news.

The bad news is that Mazda gas-nitrides those surfaces for wear.
Rust will usually eat through this gas-nitride surface, causing accelerated wear on the housing.


-Ted
What kind of lifespan would you give the iron? I want to get many years out of this rebuild.

Quote:
Originally Posted by To_Slow View Post
Wee here at ChipsMotorsports.com can surface grind and re gas nitrate the plate for you.

Pics with info http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ead.php?t=3109

Pricing http://www.chipsmotorsports.com/serv...d-re-nitriding

Hope this helps.
Chip U
I appreciate the offer, but I'd opt for replacing rather than lapping. Just wouldn't be cost effective. I don't want to do the whole engine. I'm not sure how doing one iron would effect things. It'd be more cost effective to find a low mile replacement.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by yzf-r1
Take your pathetic ultimatums and stupid "AOL" comments and shove them straight up your ass, you little punk. You avatar is gay as well....

1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas
JustJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:42 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Hosted by www.GotPlacement.com
Ad Management by RedTyger