Diary of a Madman; TitaniumTT's see you @ DGRRXI RE-REbuild

[hades]

FYI - since you are banned.

Tom94RX-7 dyno'd his car on stock non-seq. twins (street ported).

411hp max. 386 max torque. @22.9 psi. the different runs is base, 2% less and 2% more boost to hit 411.

just thought it would be interesting compare your numbers once you are tuned. But then again you do have those BNR's now. what were your old numbers?

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by hades

FYI - since you are banned.

Tom94RX-7 dyno'd his car on stock non-seq. twins (street ported).

411hp max. 386 max torque. @22.9 psi. the different runs is base, 2% less and 2% more boost to hit 411.

just thought it would be interesting compare your numbers once you are tuned. But then again you do have those BNR's now. what were your old numbers?

Damn.... that's impressive but that is an ASSTON of boost!! Those turbo's won't last more than a few hundred mile at that boost level.... still though, impressive. He's also running a correction factor of 1.04, so pull the correction factor out and he's @ 395rwhp which is still impressive. I was @ 405 NS and 400 sequential and that was @ about 14-14.5 psi. I've got to get back now that we've got the BNR's on there and holding 17psi. One of the most impressive things about the BNR's was that it shifted the peak torque about 1000rpm. Peak torque was at about 7800... in other words, the thing just hauls ass and continues to accelerate till redline.

Oh, EMAP was reduced across the board as well, meaning that the BNR's are more effiecent that the stockers at any boost level. Need to get back on the dyno and get some real nuimbers then report back.

[TitaniumTT]

So tonight, to appease Hades we will be discussing my rear brakes..... These are what I believe one of the keys to significantly shortening stopping distances. I've NEVER been able to lock up the rears in this car regardless of how hard I tried, how many different pads I tried, it didn't matter, the rears just don't want to lock up. Hell, they don't even want to dust all that much! The brakes in the front are massive, and that's really just to deal with the heat, give me as much torque and clamping force as possible, and a WIDE selection of pads.

Here's what came from FastBrakes. We've got a set of custom hats, a pair of wilwood rotors - 12.2x.81", a pair of wilwood Combination P-Brake Calipers... single piston sliding with an ebrake mechanism, a Lokar e-brake cable kit and a set of wilwood BP-10 pads. Believe it or not, the stock... well, the stainless braided lines that I have fit perfectly. They just needed to be slightly re-clocked.



Stock rotor on top, and the new bare rotors underneath..... more bigger = more gooder when it comes to brakes



You can see that the thickness of the disc is about the same. On the bottom is an assembled rotor, on the top is a bare rotor and the stock rotor ontop of it.



Stock caliper in the wheel... as you can see there is plenty of room in there for something more gooder...



Bare rear upright with the adapter bracket installed. I actually pulled those studs out and cut them a little shorter.... just because that's the way I am....



And the installed rear kit in the wheel



As you can see... there isn't much room for anything else....



The Ebrake cable kit was pretty damn easy to install. They had the wilwood caliper in mind when they designed it so mating it to the cali was pretty damn easy. I then ran the cables under and around the uprights, up along the swing arm and to that little sweet spot on the chassis where the stockers meet.... it really is a nice little kit. To attach it to the factory cable, I took the little block that was pre-drilled and tapped to use those little allen key set screws and welded that to the factory cable splitter. Then attached the cables, tightened them down and viola.... a wonderfully functioning e-brake.

Bleeding the calis was a PITA though, I mounted the left on the right and the right on the left to make it easier to run the e-brake cable. If I had mounted them on the proper sides..... the cable would've had to take a few really tight turns and I was afraid that it would wear fast, kink, not work very smoothly.

As you can imagine, bleeding a new caliper when the bleeder screw isn't on the top, can be a little................ time consuming I guess. Mazpower was intown and helping me out and he had a great idea.... cut a block of wood to wedge in the caliper to keep the piston from moving when you pull the cali off to bleed it. Damn good idea. I've since bought a really sweet little brake caliper service KIT that I can use to hold the pistons in place for bleeding.... pretty cool stuff. I keep finding myself tightening down the prop valve getting more and more braking force in the rear. One of these days I'll torture the car around a few local rds and quickly get out with my little lazer thermo-probe and decide if I need to bump up the rear pads. Sadly, there isn't a big selection of rear pads for this caliper. I'm thinking about buying the hotter set of pads and sending the pads I have now out to Carbotech... they claim they will build a pad for any caliper if they have a set of pads.... hmmmmmm... this is interesting for damn sure.

Anywho... that basically covers the rears... I'll try to get a few pics of the ebrake setup over the next day or two... I guess.... maybe..... GRASS!!!

[TitaniumTT]

just a fwe more pics....