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Old 01-25-2011, 10:22 PM   #1
speedjunkie
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So here is my list of needed parts so far...
-e-shaft
-front and rear irons
-new rear main bearing and possibly replace all other bearings while I'm at it
-at least one new side seal
-probably some new corner seals
-possibly switch to RA Classic or Super seals
-obviously new coolant seals and gaskets, and possibly oil control rings
-spec housings and possibly get replacements or get them resurfaced

I forgot I have my engine from 3 years ago that I still haven't torn down yet. I'm going to break into that to see if there is anything I can use on this build.

Any suggestions from you guys? What new parts should I get?
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:48 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjunkie View Post
So here is my list of needed parts so far...
-e-shaft
-front and rear irons
-new rear main bearing and possibly replace all other bearings while I'm at it
-at least one new side seal
-probably some new corner seals
-possibly switch to RA Classic or Super seals
-obviously new coolant seals and gaskets, and possibly oil control rings
-spec housings and possibly get replacements or get them resurfaced

I forgot I have my engine from 3 years ago that I still haven't torn down yet. I'm going to break into that to see if there is anything I can use on this build.

Any suggestions from you guys? What new parts should I get?
Eric,

My suggestion to you would be: if the the other engine you have has minimal useable parts, buy a new engine from ray. The price break you get on buying the whole engine new instead of buying it part by part, is huge. Also, I don't care what anyone else says, RA seals are junk, ESPECIALLY the 3mm super seals. I DO NOT recommend them at all.

-J
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We specialize in Rotary, Japanese, European and Exotic performance forced induction cars. We also custom build 3/4 multi-rotor engine setups for the street or track.
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GorillaRE View Post
Eric,

My suggestion to you would be: if the the other engine you have has minimal useable parts, buy a new engine from ray. The price break you get on buying the whole engine new instead of buying it part by part, is huge.
good point

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Originally Posted by GorillaRE View Post
Also, I don't care what anyone else says, RA seals are junk, ESPECIALLY the 3mm super seals. I DO NOT recommend them at all.

-J
Experience? Proof? What do you rec and WHY?

In mine they don't break, only warp... saved at LEAST one of my engines. As for chatter marks.... virtually none after 10k
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Old 01-25-2011, 11:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
good point



Experience? Proof? What do you rec and WHY?

In mine they don't break, only warp... saved at LEAST one of my engines. As for chatter marks.... virtually none after 10k
Please understand, my post wasn't meant to contridict yours. I was writting it when yours was posted.

But, my "proof" is in the amount of RA supper seal'd engines I've disassembled in the past 12 years. I have YET to see one that would lead me to believe they are anything but junk, in the form of a "seal that wont break". Sure, they are tuff seals, but they will eat your engine from the inside out. Now, I will be honest when I say, that the 2mm varity usually don't do the severe damage. And in fact, may be considered by some to be "normal(ish)" wear marks. But the fact is, that both the 2mm and 3mm leave chatter marks every time.

I refuse to pay for, or suport a seal that does damage to your engine during its running life just because it's "un breakable".

-J
__________________
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-Mark D. White RIP man, we love you...

We specialize in Rotary, Japanese, European and Exotic performance forced induction cars. We also custom build 3/4 multi-rotor engine setups for the street or track.
We are the only authorized Fujita Engineering dealer in the USA. Call for authentic FEED parts. Call for ECU tuning.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Gorilla-Race-Engineering/43530496660

Last edited by GorillaRE; 01-25-2011 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:23 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GorillaRE View Post
Please understand, my post wasn't meant to contridict yours. I was writting it when yours was posted.
Kinda figured based on the time, thought it was odd though that you're so against them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GorillaRE View Post
But, my "proof" is in the amount of RA supper seal'd engines I've disassembled in the past 12 years. I have YET to see one that would lead me to believe they are anything but junk, in the form of a "seal that wont break". Sure, they are tuff seals, but they will eat your engine from the inside out. Now, I will be honest when I say, that the 2mm varity usually don't do the severe damage. And in fact, may be considered by some to be "normal(ish)" wear marks. But the fact is, that both the 2mm and 3mm leave chatter marks every time.

I refuse to pay for, or suport a seal that does damage to your engine during its running life just because it's "un breakable".

-J
Certainly you've got more experience with these seals than I do. In the roughly 15k miles that I've been using these seals they haven't really left any chatter marks on top of what was already there. I'm also running the stock OMP with an RA adapter and idemitsu plus 1/4oz per gallon in the tank so I'm probably over oiling the engine in certain situations, maybe that's helping? I won't argue that they leave chatter marks compared to the factory seals, but they have saved a few of my engines which is one of the reasons I run them. In my case they've really prolonged my engines.

So, what do you rec?
__________________
-The Angry Stig-
DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 01-26-2011, 01:29 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
Kinda figured based on the time, thought it was odd though that you're so against them.



Certainly you've got more experience with these seals than I do. In the roughly 15k miles that I've been using these seals they haven't really left any chatter marks on top of what was already there. I'm also running the stock OMP with an RA adapter and idemitsu plus 1/4oz per gallon in the tank so I'm probably over oiling the engine in certain situations, maybe that's helping? I won't argue that they leave chatter marks compared to the factory seals, but they have saved a few of my engines which is one of the reasons I run them. In my case they've really prolonged my engines.

So, what do you rec?
Yes, the extra oiling is most certainly helping! And I don't have an issue with the idea of "over oiling" ! It does more good than bad in these little two strokes of ours!

I recommend NRS 1 piece for NA and ALS 2 piece for boosted aplications. I also dont mind atkins cryo'd 2 piece seals either.

-J
__________________
" Life is full of trials and tribulations, misery is optional."
-Mark D. White RIP man, we love you...

We specialize in Rotary, Japanese, European and Exotic performance forced induction cars. We also custom build 3/4 multi-rotor engine setups for the street or track.
We are the only authorized Fujita Engineering dealer in the USA. Call for authentic FEED parts. Call for ECU tuning.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Gorilla-Race-Engineering/43530496660
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