Re-chromed rotor housings

[TitaniumTT]

Very interesting..... Depending on how quickly they can be re-chromed I will be on it for an n/a ported rebuild in my mothers 'vert, I have a set of housings now that would be perfect candidates for Goopy's machining, but I'm willing to use her car/housings as the ginuea pig for my FD build.... comments will result in ban

I think what needs be be made expressly clear is what kind of data you want back. I'm thinking if it can be done soon and I can get the car running around May or June with these housings, we'll have 5-6 months worth of driving and next winter I'll haul the engine and break it apart. Based on my own previous personal experiences, all I would need is an o-ring kit to reassemble the engine. Do to the tightness that I clearance my engines at, my last one after 10k and 100+ dyno pulls still spec'ed out below Mazda's min's. No seals needed, just the o-rings. People should be made aware that if they build an engine properly and care for it properly, this should be the norm, I'm not an engine building genius by any means.

Now I understand that the $200 refund is a good incentive, but maybe consider tossing in Pineapples o-ring kit to reassemble the engine after it's been broken apart? I think this will give people more of an incentive to haul an engine, open it up, and get more data as opposed to just looking inside the exhaust ports. Just my suggestion.

What type of seals do you reccomend using? This being an n/a engine I would prob go with the RA classics. The turbo engine I plan on building will be RA Super Seals. I've noticed MINIMAL chatter marks after years of use, I run pre-mix though, so other results may vary.

What types of housings are you looking for? The ones that I felt were excellent candidates for the re-surfacing were S4 n/a housings. I've got a few pairs of these that are door stops, or worn beyond the limits of the re-surfacing. I've also got one REW housing that is in good shape, minor flaking, and one REW housing that ate an Apex Seal as is destroyed. Would it be good to use these housings for this process? Would it be better to use the S4 N/A housings that are just plain worn out for this process? If there is a difference in housings, can you please explain what they are and why some are better than others? Basically what I don't want to do is use my REW housings for the 'Vert build and then need to sacrifice a little or source busted REW housings when i go to assembly the FD where I'll be looking for 3x the power of the 'Vert.

Approx turn around time?

Thanks so much for this.

-Brian

Oh, and I have to ask, are you still active on 7club posting up about this or were you shunned for not paying vendor fees?

[glassman]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I think what needs be be made expressly clear is what kind of data you want back. I'm thinking if it can be done soon and I can get the car running around May or June with these housings, we'll have 5-6 months worth of driving and next winter I'll haul the engine and break it apart. Based on my own previous personal experiences, all I would need is an o-ring kit to reassemble the engine. Do to the tightness that I clearance my engines at, my last one after 10k and 100+ dyno pulls still spec'ed out below Mazda's min's. No seals needed, just the o-rings. People should be made aware that if they build an engine properly and care for it properly, this should be the norm, I'm not an engine building genius by any means.

Now I understand that the $200 refund is a good incentive, but maybe consider tossing in Pineapples o-ring kit to reassemble the engine after it's been broken apart? I think this will give people more of an incentive to haul an engine, open it up, and get more data as opposed to just looking inside the exhaust ports. Just my suggestion.

The kind of data we want would include: Porting, N/A or turbo, as much details of the build as possible, supporting hardware, HP figures, mileage, comp tests, apex seal clearances, premix and anything else you can think of that I'm missing.

I will ask Rob about that.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

What type of seals do you reccomend using? This being an n/a engine I would prob go with the RA classics. The turbo engine I plan on building will be RA Super Seals. I've noticed MINIMAL chatter marks after years of use, I run pre-mix though, so other results may vary.

Ideally factory seals, there is a massive amount of data on them as far as wear patterns, expected life etc. Although I guess they will have to work with other seals too, at least as good as they do now on factory plated housings.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

What types of housings are you looking for? The ones that I felt were excellent candidates for the re-surfacing were S4 n/a housings. I've got a few pairs of these that are door stops, or worn beyond the limits of the re-surfacing. I've also got one REW housing that is in good shape, minor flaking, and one REW housing that ate an Apex Seal as is destroyed. Would it be good to use these housings for this process? Would it be better to use the S4 N/A housings that are just plain worn out for this process? If there is a difference in housings, can you please explain what they are and why some are better than others? Basically what I don't want to do is use my REW housings for the 'Vert build and then need to sacrifice a little or source busted REW housings when i go to assembly the FD where I'll be looking for 3x the power of the 'Vert.

It doesn't matter the series of the housing. What is imortant is the condition of the steel insert. Whatever is supplied is the quality of surface you can expect. If the housing chrome is just worn or has scratches that are not into the insert they will be just like new. If there is chrome peeling and the insert is pitted or gouged this will translate into the chrome. So basically look at the housing and imagine if the chrome were removed would the insert have any marks, gouges or pitting. Later on we will be looking into repairing the steel insert to salvage any housing.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Approx turn around time?

I will be checking on this for your answer.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Oh, and I have to ask, are you still active on 7club posting up about this or were you shunned for not paying vendor fees?

I started a thread on there but we'll see how long that lasts.