Info on Filters. Oil, fuel, air.

[IH8DSM]

This is what ive seen, fram shouldn't be in this at all, it doesnt have a check valve in it so the way they mount on a rotary once the oil stops flowing all that dirt and particles the filter has caught now leak back into the motor. Fram for a rotary sucks

purolator or mazda would be the only filters id run both are very good, im sure the purolator is a little better then a oem filter but i wouldn't swear to it.

as for fuel i run the ones i get from mazda and a mr gasket one from advanced (im carb'd)

and oil castrol 20-50 change it every 3,000 miles, 2,000 if you beat on it a lot. All oils I've tried, castrol 10-30 broke down to quick, supertech (walmart) 20-50 also broke down to quick i use it as break in oil so at 500 miles pulled the plug and it was like water, those are the ones ive tried, stay with castrol 20-50 theres a reason its on the race cars

[C. Ludwig]

Originally Posted by IH8DSM

This is what ive seen, fram shouldn't be in this at all, it doesnt have a check valve in it so the way they mount on a rotary once the oil stops flowing all that dirt and particles the filter has caught now leak back into the motor. Fram for a rotary sucks

While I will agree that Fram has a poor reputation and I avoid them, your scenario is not accurate. The check valve only ensures that oil is held in the filter to avoid dry starts. The "dirt and particles" that might be entering the engine from the cooler come in through the bottom of the rear iron, up the iron to the middle of the filter, through the media, out of the filter, and down to the rear main. The only way for the bad stuff to get to critical parts of the engine is through the filter media (whether the engine is running or not). There is no possible way for it to "leak back into the motor".

[Barry Bordes]

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

While I will agree that Fram has a poor reputation and I avoid them, your scenario is not accurate. The check valve only ensures that oil is held in the filter to avoid dry starts. The "dirt and particles" that might be entering the engine from the cooler come in through the bottom of the rear iron, up the iron to the middle of the filter, through the media, out of the filter, and down to the rear main. The only way for the bad stuff to get to critical parts of the engine is through the filter media (whether the engine is running or not). There is no possible way for it to "leak back into the motor".

I think you meant to say that the oil comes into the side ports of the filter and clean filtered oil is fed through the center.

Also any "dirty oil" from the inlet is also poised at the bypass valve (directly below it in the pan) ready to contaminate your cleaned oil if the bypass is opened during cold start-up. If you have a direct reading gauge you will see this happen at about 105-110 PSI (3rd Gen). During warm-up it is important to try to avoid this.

Barry

[t_g_farrell]

Ok, heres link to a very well done study done by someone thats very methodical
to say the least. The original version was done almost 10 years ago but has been
updated since. This guy covers almost anything you may end up discussing
here. Read up, its a great resource and learning experience. This is one of the
reasons I started using Mobil 1 filters instead of paying more for K&N and so
forth.

This is a link to the complete study.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

Heres a link to the good stuff on general retail filters.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html

[C. Ludwig]

Originally Posted by Barry Bordes

I think you meant to say that the oil comes into the side ports of the filter and clean filtered oil is fed through the center.

Also any "dirty oil" from the inlet is also poised at the bypass valve (directly below it in the pan) ready to contaminate your cleaned oil if the bypass is opened during cold start-up. If you have a direct reading gauge you will see this happen at about 105-110 PSI (3rd Gen). During warm-up it is important to try to avoid this.

Barry

I knew I would get that wrong.

Any dirty oil that is bypassed by either regulator is just falling back into the pan with the rest of the dirty oil. Not sure I see the issue there.