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Interior, Stereo, Body kits, etc... Place where you could talk about car care, body kits, painting your car, Carbon Fiber, Thumping Stereo, etc.. |
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12-16-2010, 10:43 AM | #1 |
The Newbie
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a bunch of interior questions!
Alright so i have a bunch of questions that hopefully you guys have had some experience with. (This is a 1988 GTU n/a)
1. The driver's side lock doesn't work anymore, the key won't go in and when it does it won't turn. 2. The right side exterior door handle won't open the door. 3. The sunroof won't open. I push the button and the motor tries to open but its like it gets stuck. 4. The wipers only work on one setting. 5. The reverse lights won't come on. 6. The driver door window gets stuck half way up. I have to push forward on the backside of the window to get it to go the rest of the way up. Thats all i can think of for now but thank you very much for any help you can give! |
12-16-2010, 11:48 AM | #2 |
My minds tellin' me no...
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Congratulations!
You have nearly every FC interior common problem known to exist!! 1- the lock cylinder is seized. I had the same issue, a locksmith got it working again. I took it out and brought it to him. 2- the handle is made of cheap 'pot' metal. They break alot, you need to find a new/used one. It really can't be fixed (trust me) 3- Common as well. The sunroof is pretty shitty. I used to have to help mine up, then it would work fine. 4- Get a new wiper switch, or get ahold of vex (on this forum). I believe he is rebuilding them. 5- Check the plugs on the trans. Either that or the switch itself is bad. 6- Take out the window regulator and check to see if it is binding. Sometimes you can just use some graphite lube and it will work fine. Sometimes you will need a new regulator. Now all you need is your window switch to fail and your idiot cluster clock to stop working.
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1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5 |
12-16-2010, 12:16 PM | #3 |
The Newbie
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I'm assuming thats for electric windows? Thankfully these are manual windows actually, helps in Michigan to have less electric 'things' in the car so the pot holes have less things to ruin :P
Oh, and the clock doesn't work. Forgot about that :P |
12-16-2010, 01:16 PM | #4 |
Sigh.....
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DJ has it right on.
6. I can only assume that it's trying to jump out of track or something. Take the door skin off and watch what it does when you try to roll it up. For the clock, the cold solder joints go bad after a while. The only real way to fix it is to open up the idiot lights, desolder everything, and then resolder everything. You can probably get away with just doing the clock, but might as well do them all. I did it a couple years ago and my clock remains set. This is including having to put in a couple jumper wires due to corroded leads.
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
12-16-2010, 02:28 PM | #5 | |||||||
RCC Addict
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Quote:
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The lock cylinder needs to be replaced. Last time I checked, it's $30 - $40 from the Mazda dealer and another $20 - $30 to rekey to your key. (It might cost more now.) Quote:
It needs to be replaced. There's a write-up on the evil forum on using safety wire and drilling holes, but I find it too much of a pain. Good, used replacement handles abound in the classifieds and eBay. Quote:
Either unstuck yours or get a replacement assembly. Quote:
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If I remember correctly, loosen window glass mount and tilt the front portion down. -Ted Last edited by RETed; 12-16-2010 at 02:30 PM.. |
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12-17-2010, 06:56 AM | #7 |
RCC Addict
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Basically, all the internal panels needs to be removed to get the headliner off the roof.
Once the headliner is out, there's a bunch of nuts that hold the sunroof assembly in. -Ted |
12-17-2010, 08:39 AM | #9 |
Lifetime Rotorhead
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Before doing all that work to take apart the sunroof, does it open & close fully with a little manual assistance? In other words, if you push up on the back end of it from inside while holding the switch, will it go up OK, and will it open & close all the way if you help it along (not forcing it - just a little push)from the inside?
If so, a good thorough cleaning & lube of the track mechanism may be all you need to do. With the sunroof fully open & all the way back, you can get to most of the lenght of the tracks, and with it closed but popped up all the way, you can get to the rest. To clean, I used a little brake cleaner applied by rags, Q-tips and/or rags wrapped on sticks/pencils or whatever works to get in there and clean all the accumulated crap out of the tracks. Once that was done, I lubed the tracks with a little silicone spray, and ran the sunroof back & forth a few times, lubing a little more on each pass. I've been doing this drill once a year since I got my '7 used in '99, and it's been working fine since. |
12-17-2010, 10:30 AM | #11 |
Sigh.....
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There's a manual crank you can try. Take off the button thing on the headliner and it's up there.
__________________
1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
12-17-2010, 11:27 AM | #12 |
Lifetime Rotorhead
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12-17-2010, 01:16 PM | #13 |
Sigh.....
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Correct. Someone still has the stock crank?
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
12-19-2010, 07:52 AM | #14 | |
RCC Addict
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Quote:
I've found that the majority of them have either one side linkage corroded into the guide tube or both. In this case, you'll need to disassemble the whole thing anyways (or at least replace the bad parts). If anything, it's nice to just clean up the old grease and relube everything up nicely. It's a tideous job, but it's not impossible. If you're willing to try, give yourself a day for this job. You'll need to keep track of all the screw and springs in there, and the two-stage lift assembly can be a puzzle to remove and reassemble. -Ted |
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