|
|||||||
| Rotary Tech - General Rotary Engine related tech section.. Tech section for general Rotary Engine... This includes, building 12As, 13Bs, 20Bs, Renesis, etc... |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
|
|
#1 |
|
The quest for more torque
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin
Posts: 855
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Atkins sells a kit for use in a standard press. That is what I use.
Please check everything for tolerances, you will thank yourself later. Bearings are like $30.00 new (for 2) I think I would go that route, the chance of damaging them removing them is not entirely remote. There should be a small ring around the metal part of the oil control ring that rides on the plate. I would expect this to be shiny (unless it rusted in the coolant). If a seal is questionable, do yourself a favor and replace it. Better 1 seal than the whole rotor assembly. How not to port exhaust (note many changes in taper angle and flow restrictions, early open and late close). Made 255 WHp at 10 psi. ![]() Much prettier exhaust port (consistent, near ideal taper angle, no avoidable flow restrictions, stock open and close timing). Made 216 WHp at 0 psi.
__________________
1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic) Last edited by NoDOHC; 12-20-2010 at 12:06 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 | |
|
Waffles - hmmm good
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 757
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
Quote:
I'll be getting a full soft seal kit so I expect that will include the o-rings for the oil control seals. The A engine oil control seals look brand new, no shiny area at all. The B ones definitely look older and worn and are shiny about half way across, probably out of spec as well. Turns out I may be able to use the lighter weight rotors from engine A which already have brand new bearings in them. They look almost new. In fact everything from engine A is looking better than the B engine. The B engine side plates have noticable grooves in them from the corner seals. I may use the A engine front rotor housing instead of the B engine rear rotor housing which has the chunk chipped out of the exhaust port top opening. I'm thinking of trying out the Goopy housing resurface service. Its certainly priced right at $125.00 for a pair.
__________________
1980 GS stockport, Fat Nikki, RB Dual Facetfuel pumps, Holley regulator, RB Street port exhaust, 2GDFIS, MR2 MK I electric fans, 2G strut bar, relayed fans, lights and fuel pump, LEDs Project Fat Nikki Budget 12A rebuild Video setup < $30.00 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Waffles - hmmm good
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 757
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
Another question. My side housings show a darker coloring at the bottom
from after the spark plug hole over to where the exhaust would exit the rotor housings? Is this normal? I'm assuming this heat from lean combution but is it overheating damage? It certainly doesn't look like the typical iron overheat damage they show on the mazdatrix site: ![]() Otherwise they have almost no step wear, definitely nothing I can feel with my fingernail. I still have to spec them out to make sure they are flat enough. I know I need pics. I can probably get them up tonight.
__________________
1980 GS stockport, Fat Nikki, RB Dual Facetfuel pumps, Holley regulator, RB Street port exhaust, 2GDFIS, MR2 MK I electric fans, 2G strut bar, relayed fans, lights and fuel pump, LEDs Project Fat Nikki Budget 12A rebuild Video setup < $30.00 |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
|
|