New! Bought a Porsche 914 with a 13b in it

JRust · 10-27-2010, 06:08 PM

I just bought this 1974 Porsche 914 with a 13b conversion done. I own 5 914's one with a v8 conversion. This is my first experience with a rotary motor. It overheated & doesn't run from what I was told. Motor was built by Racing Beat in Anaheim CA in the late 90's. I bought the car because it is in great shape despite the motor problem. I was told the motor put out 220hp. Having no experience with Rotary motors I just figured to do a suby conversion into the car. The more I look at it I want to keep it as is. I am trying to find someone closer to Corvallis Oregon who know's these motor's & can help me figure what direction I need to take. Not sure with the overheating how much damage there is. I appreciatte any insight on this. Any shops in my area speciallizing in rotaries would be great. Thanks for your help -Jamie

Max777 · 10-27-2010, 08:34 PM

Wow, nice find! I apologize for our forum being a bit quiet lately, people seem to be busier nowadays.

Overheating either really hurt the motor, or didn't hurt it at all. With the 13B, there's little in-between, although by the sounds of it, the engine probably cooked quite well.

You say you live in Oregon? Check out Pineapple Racing, a great shop with a high reputation from what I've heard!

http://www.pineappleracing.com/contact-us.aspx

tweiss3 · 10-27-2010, 08:35 PM

Overheating and seized, sounds like a full rebuild.

***TitaniumTT*** · 10-27-2010, 11:49 PM

There are alot of good informative people on this site that would love to see this thing stay rotary powered..... especially me. Although I would like to see some sort of FI in there

That would be a badass little sleeper. There's one at the auto-x that does pretty well.

If the thing spins freely, it should be pretty simple to rebuild. If it's seized, you're better off finding a used engine or a core motor and rebuilding that. Either way though, if it's been sitting a while, best thing to do is a comp test. If that's low, time to open it up. Depending on what your ultimate goals are for the car, it would be best to either take it to a shop, or better yet, do it yourself especially if you plan to stay n/a

***TitaniumTT*** · 10-27-2010, 11:50 PM

BTW - welcome to the club! Any questions, just ask. We're all very helpful here as opposed to some places. The membership here actually has the maturity to admit when they don't know something, rather than just post for the attention.

JRust · 10-28-2010, 12:38 AM

Motor is definately not seized. I am planning to check all the fluid levels this weekend. Pull the plugs & check compression. Then try to start it. Not expecting it to start but who knows. I am going to keep it rotary. There are a few 914 rotaries & they are all excited on my 914 forum to see it. This conversion was done well & that isn't something we see with conversions all to often. The radiator setup isn't great but I will be fixing that. Went through similar radiator issues with my v8 conversion 914. I've got info on one guy here in Corvallis. I should have a better idea what direction I am going this weekend. I may be looking for a used running 13b just in case anyway.

farberio · 11-02-2010, 12:24 PM

You will also want to make sure that the unit isn't flooded from trying to start it. It won't unflood by itself either, you will have stop the injectors from firing and spin the engine to get rid of the fuel, or in worse flooded engines pull the spark plugs and let the fuel exit the holes there as well.

JRust · 11-02-2010, 09:05 PM

Is there a manual besides Haynes that you guys recommend? I didn't get to pull the motor yet but am planning to saturday. Then I'll be tearing it down. I plan to video myself along with keeping each part in its section spread out on a table. Between that & whatever manal I use. I should be able to keep the parts together & remember how they go back in. Any tips & tricks always welcome

ITSWILL · 11-02-2010, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farberio

You will also want to make sure that the unit isn't flooded from trying to start it. It won't unflood by itself either, you will have stop the injectors from firing and spin the engine to get rid of the fuel, or in worse flooded engines pull the spark plugs and let the fuel exit the holes there as well.

Its not fuel injected, pinching off the fuel line of disconnecting it should give the same results though.

***TitaniumTT*** · 11-03-2010, 06:13 AM

I'd sypon some fuel out first and see what you're dealing with before you crank anything. Could just be pumping sludge/nastiness into the engine.

I'm a fan of disconnecting/cleaning everything on a car that's sat for a while that I'm unfamiliar with. Good news is that the 2-stroke oil directly in the gas (I'm assuming the OMP was blocked off) generally does a nice job of staving off rust.

JRust · 11-04-2010, 08:54 AM

I'm pulling the motor saturday morning. I also bought another 13b motor complete from a 88. Of course that was before I knew there are differences in the 13b. So I can't just bolt the new one in place & go. Can someone tell me if there is a benefit to going with the newer motor? Be nice to have Fuel injection. How much better is the 6 port motor?

NoDOHC · 11-04-2010, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRust

I'm pulling the motor saturday morning. I also bought another 13b motor complete from a 88.

This would be an S4 NA? (6-port)

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRust

Of course that was before I knew there are differences in the 13b. So I can't just bolt the new one in place & go.

I am guessing that the existing engine is a 4 port...

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRust

Can someone tell me if there is a benefit to going with the newer motor? Be nice to have Fuel injection.

Fuel Injection is one advantage, the chrome finish sticks better to the newer housings, so the flaking isn't such a problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRust

How much better is the 6 port motor?

I think by this you mean 'How much worse is the 6-port motor?' - Considerably. The 4 port makes considerably more power in stock trim and has a lot more potential.

Here is a torque curve comparison between the two, the 6-port was completely stock, the 4-port was mildly ported.

JRust · 11-09-2010, 01:47 AM

Yeah sorry the 13b in it is a 4 port. I will be tearing it down soon. I plan on a full rebuild with it. I am excited to pull the motor. Been wanting to do it the last 2 weekends & it hasn't quite worked out. Hopefully this weekend

LunchboxCritter · 11-09-2010, 12:39 PM

It would be nice if an S5 JDM TII setup would fit in there.

If you are going to port your motor (might as well while it's torn down) I would suggest having someone experienced do it for you. The templates are a general guide, and the shape, depth, texture, etc. all effect what type of return you get from the porting.

10-27-2010, 08:34 PM	#2
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Wow, nice find! I apologize for our forum being a bit quiet lately, people seem to be busier nowadays. Overheating either really hurt the motor, or didn't hurt it at all. With the 13B, there's little in-between, although by the sounds of it, the engine probably cooked quite well. You say you live in Oregon? Check out Pineapple Racing, a great shop with a high reputation from what I've heard! http://www.pineappleracing.com/contact-us.aspx __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

10-27-2010, 08:35 PM	#3
tweiss3 Mazda Lover Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Akron, Ohio iTrader: (0) Posts: 319 Rep Power: 15	Overheating and seized, sounds like a full rebuild. __________________ 2004 Mazda6 V6 5-spd - still waiting on money for a motor 1991 Mazda RX7 NA 5-spd - my new DD with 145,000 miles

10-27-2010, 11:49 PM	#4
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	There are alot of good informative people on this site that would love to see this thing stay rotary powered..... especially me. Although I would like to see some sort of FI in there That would be a badass little sleeper. There's one at the auto-x that does pretty well. If the thing spins freely, it should be pretty simple to rebuild. If it's seized, you're better off finding a used engine or a core motor and rebuilding that. Either way though, if it's been sitting a while, best thing to do is a comp test. If that's low, time to open it up. Depending on what your ultimate goals are for the car, it would be best to either take it to a shop, or better yet, do it yourself especially if you plan to stay n/a __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

10-27-2010, 11:50 PM	#5
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	BTW - welcome to the club! Any questions, just ask. We're all very helpful here as opposed to some places. The membership here actually has the maturity to admit when they don't know something, rather than just post for the attention. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

11-03-2010, 06:13 AM	#10
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	I'd sypon some fuel out first and see what you're dealing with before you crank anything. Could just be pumping sludge/nastiness into the engine. I'm a fan of disconnecting/cleaning everything on a car that's sat for a while that I'm unfamiliar with. Good news is that the 2-stroke oil directly in the gas (I'm assuming the OMP was blocked off) generally does a nice job of staving off rust. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

10-28-2010, 12:38 AM	#6
JRust The Newbie Join Date: Oct 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 5 Rep Power: 0	Motor is definately not seized. I am planning to check all the fluid levels this weekend. Pull the plugs & check compression. Then try to start it. Not expecting it to start but who knows. I am going to keep it rotary. There are a few 914 rotaries & they are all excited on my 914 forum to see it. This conversion was done well & that isn't something we see with conversions all to often. The radiator setup isn't great but I will be fixing that. Went through similar radiator issues with my v8 conversion 914. I've got info on one guy here in Corvallis. I should have a better idea what direction I am going this weekend. I may be looking for a used running 13b just in case anyway.

11-02-2010, 12:24 PM	#7
farberio Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 38 Rep Power: 0	You will also want to make sure that the unit isn't flooded from trying to start it. It won't unflood by itself either, you will have stop the injectors from firing and spin the engine to get rid of the fuel, or in worse flooded engines pull the spark plugs and let the fuel exit the holes there as well.

11-02-2010, 09:05 PM	#8
JRust The Newbie Join Date: Oct 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 5 Rep Power: 0	Is there a manual besides Haynes that you guys recommend? I didn't get to pull the motor yet but am planning to saturday. Then I'll be tearing it down. I plan to video myself along with keeping each part in its section spread out on a table. Between that & whatever manal I use. I should be able to keep the parts together & remember how they go back in. Any tips & tricks always welcome

11-04-2010, 08:54 AM	#11
JRust The Newbie Join Date: Oct 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 5 Rep Power: 0	Pulling motor I'm pulling the motor saturday morning. I also bought another 13b motor complete from a 88. Of course that was before I knew there are differences in the 13b. So I can't just bolt the new one in place & go. Can someone tell me if there is a benefit to going with the newer motor? Be nice to have Fuel injection. How much better is the 6 port motor?

11-09-2010, 01:47 AM	#13
JRust The Newbie Join Date: Oct 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 5 Rep Power: 0	Yeah sorry the 13b in it is a 4 port. I will be tearing it down soon. I plan on a full rebuild with it. I am excited to pull the motor. Been wanting to do it the last 2 weekends & it hasn't quite worked out. Hopefully this weekend

11-09-2010, 12:39 PM	#14
LunchboxCritter Simply Rotarded Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Florida iTrader: (0) Posts: 166 Rep Power: 16	It would be nice if an S5 JDM TII setup would fit in there. If you are going to port your motor (might as well while it's torn down) I would suggest having someone experienced do it for you. The templates are a general guide, and the shape, depth, texture, etc. all effect what type of return you get from the porting. __________________ LunchboxCritter - 91 NA to J-Spec TII - 88 FC Vert - 04 Rx8 Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, and I did not sleep at a Holiday Inn. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!!!