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Old 11-07-2010, 10:37 AM   #1
vex
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I'm going to put that on your friend then. You don't need to calibrate the sensor every time you start the car. That's just redundant. You only 'need' to calibrate the sensor if and only if you have a suspicion that the sensor is no longer in spec.

Furthermore to calibrate the sensor (if you have it in a proper location) you won't need to pull the sensor. Think of it this way: don't try to calibrate the sensor while the exhaust stream is going over it as that will skew the result, but if the car is off there is no exhaust going over the sensor and if it's been off for awhile any and all exhaust gases there were retained in the exhaust system have long since seeped out and been replaced with regular 'old' air.

Honestly, the LC-1 is your best bet. Though if you have an RTek you don't need a narrowband. You can tune with the wide band and get your fuel mixtures where you want without having to go into closed loop (the benefits of tuning).
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:14 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vex View Post
I'm going to put that on your friend then. You don't need to calibrate the sensor every time you start the car. That's just redundant. You only 'need' to calibrate the sensor if and only if you have a suspicion that the sensor is no longer in spec.

Furthermore to calibrate the sensor (if you have it in a proper location) you won't need to pull the sensor. Think of it this way: don't try to calibrate the sensor while the exhaust stream is going over it as that will skew the result, but if the car is off there is no exhaust going over the sensor and if it's been off for awhile any and all exhaust gases there were retained in the exhaust system have long since seeped out and been replaced with regular 'old' air.

Honestly, the LC-1 is your best bet. Though if you have an RTek you don't need a narrowband. You can tune with the wide band and get your fuel mixtures where you want without having to go into closed loop (the benefits of tuning).

When he was telling me that I almost shit my pants... I thought he was kidding (maybe he was) I agree though, if there is no exhaust flow over it, then why remove it to calibrate it....

I doubt I'll ever know, but at least that clears up any concern I had with the innovative stuff :P


Thanks Vex


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Old 11-18-2010, 07:42 PM   #3
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Boy it's been awhile sine I've been here. Sorry, it just seems that this forum moves alot slower than RX7club. Certainly are nicer people here though. At least alot less 'newbies' posting in netspeak.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vex View Post
Honestly, the LC-1 is your best bet. Though if you have an RTek you don't need a narrowband. You can tune with the wide band and get your fuel mixtures where you want without having to go into closed loop (the benefits of tuning).
Yeah, the Rtek just alters the stock WOT[right?] mapping +/-50%, independent of the O2.

Well, problem is, the LC-1 is just the controller, no gauge included (that I can afford, whereas I can get a digital UEGO controller/gauge for $175 shipped off evilbay).
Plus...I may have been mistaken about the UEGO's reputation.

So, for sure the UEGO digital gauge has a narrowband emulation output, or is that just the full-controller package they sell?
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