Upgrading the Alternators; GM + wiring?

***TitaniumTT*** · 05-10-2010, 10:27 AM

I sent Ihor (IR Performance) a dissasembled and powdercoated FD frame and alt and he had it re-wound and tested to something like 140A. The alt runs flawlessly once you rev it past ~3.5k and it kicks in. 14V+ @ idle with the lights, fan, and big ass stereo cranking. Bolts in, basically plugs in to S5 wiring and handles the RPM's. Brian is very pleased with that alt and would do it again. My only complaint is that it needs to be rev'ed up to kick in.

vex · 05-10-2010, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I sent Ihor (IR Performance) a dissasembled and powdercoated FD frame and alt and he had it re-wound and tested to something like 140A. The alt runs flawlessly once you rev it past ~3.5k and it kicks in. 14V+ @ idle with the lights, fan, and big ass stereo cranking. Bolts in, basically plugs in to S5 wiring and handles the RPM's. Brian is very pleased with that alt and would do it again. My only complaint is that it needs to be rev'ed up to kick in.

I've heard of that happening before, but I can't remember why they do it. I *think* it's to save the electronics as the heat production goes up, but I can't say for certain. What I'd like is an alternator that can be used at idle with out dropping in voltage with everything electronic going in the car, then having the same benefit while I'm driving. I'm wondering if the only way that could be done is with two alternators wired in, but that, to me anyways, seems to be going around your elbow to get to your ass.

As for GM/domestic alternators, there are some models that can safely be used up to 7500RPM or higher, but it would take away from the FS of the unit in total. I'd have to crunch some numbers to be certain, but I don't think it would be too much if an alternator is rated for an engine with a normal redline of 7500RPM (say a corvette), and then put on an engine that is able to rev to 9000RPM.

Out of curiosity how many amps does the RX8 alternator put out?

05-10-2010, 10:27 AM	#1
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	I sent Ihor (IR Performance) a dissasembled and powdercoated FD frame and alt and he had it re-wound and tested to something like 140A. The alt runs flawlessly once you rev it past ~3.5k and it kicks in. 14V+ @ idle with the lights, fan, and big ass stereo cranking. Bolts in, basically plugs in to S5 wiring and handles the RPM's. Brian is very pleased with that alt and would do it again. My only complaint is that it needs to be rev'ed up to kick in. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**