wheel repair

[Doc-1]

I have a alm wheel that has curb rash. I am thinking about using HTS-2000 braz rods and repair it my self. Anyone use this product before and what results did you have

[jtbshaw]

Yes, don't waste your cash. Find someone to Tig weld it. That 2000 rod will never hold on a wheel. I have welded an average of 4-5 wheels per week for the past little more than 2 years. Tig welding the wheel using a 5356 rod is the only way it will stay together. I have a few contacts I can give, since I no longer do them, if you would like.

Todd B.

[ZGN]

What about wheel masters?

Send me contacts also as I have a set of 280zx rims I would like restored back to orginal stock finish.

thanks,

Kevin

[Doc-1]

I am using it to fill a little curb rash. What are your thoughts on it as a filler

[Doc-1]

I have a mig that I could use and would like the contact list for the future

[jtbshaw]

Originally Posted by Doc-1

I am using it to fill a little curb rash. What are your thoughts on it as a filler

I woud highly recommend not using it on a wheel at all. The amount of heat that will be applied to the wheel to heat the 2000 rod will more than likely break down the structural integrity of the wheel. If too much heat is applied, you will get a crack. Keep in mind that you may not visibly see the crack. I've repaired many wheels that you couldn't see the crack until the heat from the Tig torch was applied.

[Doc-1]

Well I got the 2000 rods in. I have an old rim for my 280ZX. Here is what I did, I cleaned the rim very well and stripped off all the paint. Put the rim in the over and heated it to 400. Put it on the work bench and did the repair. It is a "touch" you must learn to do for this product, but I did get it to adhere to the rim. I used a welding torch with a neutral flame. It is possible to do it and do it well. I did a ping test and indeed a few redo's had to be done. I checked the rim and it has remain straight and true.

[jtbshaw]

Sounds like you did a great job. However, the wheel is exposed to forces that simply can't be replicated without sophisticated equipment. The wheel will, more than likely, crack again in the repaired location once it getss to rolling down the highway (assuming your repaired a crack...if you just built up the bead from curb rash, then it should hold just fine). I hope that I am proven wrong. The 2000 rod certainly has it's applications, repairing cracked/broken wheels is just not one of them, IMO.

[Doc-1]

No actually not. I think you are right. I would not recommend this type of repair for a crack...never. For building up the lip for curb rash...would not recommend this either. I wanted to do this as an experiment as a learning process as to see what and where we are in this area of brazing. The temps are too high for curb rash, I will used JB weld in the future. They temps need to come down by 300 F to be usable for curb rash. Tig is the only way to go for a crack. I am in full agreement with you

[Sideo]

any more info on repairing rims? i would love some pictures.

[Doc-1]

This little project has proved to be a real bitch. What I have learned thus far...if you are painting your wheels use a filler...like JB & sand to suit. If you like a polished wheel with clear coat...I have not found a way to fill blemish without adding ALOT of heat and that is REAL bad......looking for ideas

[Signal 2]

I had a set of OEM FD wheels powder-coated. One had about a 3" long patch of curb rash on the outer lip. Maybe 1/16" to 1/8" deep. I really wasn't hoping for much as the wheels were given to me and long-term purpose will be for R-compounds. But when it came back you had to look pretty hard to see the spot. I almost couldn't find it. No issues on balancing either...actually IIRC that wheel took less weight than other undamaged wheels.
Small side benefit I've since discovered is that brake dust doesn't stick to the inside of the wheel and is easier to clean. I assume it's because the PC fills in porous surface left from casting.