Labor of love - Page 2

Max777 · 12-07-2009, 06:03 PM

Sweet!

I know that after I repainted the bay on my vert, and had to put all the stock CRAP back in there, I was really wishing that I could afford a standalone. I also absolutely despise how even the non abs stock brake line is routed, it's rubbish! This spring I am getting it redone for sure.

-Six- · 12-08-2009, 07:54 AM

Stand alone may also be in the works since I sold off my factory ECU...might as well upgrade.

NoDOHC · 12-08-2009, 06:45 PM

If you just want to keep it from getting worse, I recommend POR-15. It is a little expensive, but it works well for stopping rust.

Max777 · 12-08-2009, 09:29 PM

nevermind.

RETed · 12-08-2009, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max777

nodohc, read my post above, there's better stuff out there then POR15.

Did I miss something?
I clicked the link and read that blog thing, and it looks like POR-15 was the winner?

-Ted

Max777 · 12-08-2009, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETed

Did I miss something?
I clicked the link and read that blog thing, and it looks like POR-15 was the winner?

-Ted

No, that would be me that missed something, lol. There was another article, and it made a lot more sense, and had eastwood as the winner, but I cant find it.... THAT article found eastood to be a lot more resistant to UV and such.... I'm looking for it now.

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/general...ust-encap.html

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/p...ad.php?t=63136

quote from threads:

POR has problems with popping, shrinking, etc

the magazine that wrote it is not biased by any advertizing companies, it's kinda like consumer reports.

-Six- · 12-08-2009, 11:04 PM

Thanks for the info Max, POR-15 was the one product I knew about, this is the first I have heard of Eastwood. Isn't the only sure fire way to deal with rust to grind it/sand it off completely, or would I still need to use a POR-15 type product?

RETed · 12-09-2009, 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max777

No, that would be me, lol. There was another article, and it made a lot more sense, and had eastwood as the winner, but I cant find it.... THAT article found eastood to be a lot more resistant to UV and such.... I'm looking for it now.

IMO, trying to seal off rust to make it "rustproof" is next to impossible.
The FC is not a museum piece, so I'm not looking for the "ultimate" solution.

With that said, I only have direct experience with POR-15.
I can't comment on the long term durability, but all I know is DON'T GET POR-15 ON YOUR CLOTHES, OR ANYTHING YOU DON'T WANT STAINED!
Anything porous, POR-15 will soak in, and you will never get it out, period.
So wear gear that you're going to throw away or don't mind getting stained.

In most applications, you really don't need to worry about UV exposure.
I've used it mostly in the engine bay or in the interior or under the car.
If you're going to use it on exterior panels, those panels would most likely be painted over with a paint???
I don't think "glowing" hot items under the hood would emit that much UV?
It's mostly IR, right?

I've seen the Eastwood (I'm on their mailing list) Rust Encapsulator, but I'm skeptical of their promises.
The original link we were talking about basically confirms my suspicions that RE isn't that great; I think if the metal were *totally* sealed, then RE might be superior - can you always guarantee your metal surface is totally sealed?
I'm glad that they did do a scratch test which shows real world applications when the coating seal is compromised.

So for the ramble, but for the OP...
The pics shows a lot of rust, but it does look only surface rust.
I agree that a quick blast with the wire wheel should take most of it off.
As for the rust up front at the round crossover tube...that's typical of most FC's I've seen.
Luckily that tube is not a load bearing piece, and it's only there for some clips for the wire harness and the oil cooler; it's designed to crumple on a front end collision too.

-Ted

BigIslandSevens · 12-09-2009, 03:50 PM

I've used POR 15 in most of my rust repairs( surface rust

) Deep rust really needs to be removed and a patch panel made. For all my surface rust, I just did as Ted says. Take it down to bare metal with a wire wheel. Hit it with the POR 15 a couple times. Then primer and fill as needed prior to paint. I needed to fill a couple little pits that had formed from leaking acid.

I have not had any issues as of yet with the paint shrinking or popping. If you prepare the surface correctly, all the POR and filler should be sealed in with a final glaze to prevent any further absorbtion of paint materials.

And yeah POR stains everything. Takes a good month to wear off the skin.
Dave

-Six- · 12-15-2009, 09:21 AM

Got my wire wheels and primer this weekend, still have to pick up some POR-15. Hoping to attack some rust this weekend.

12-07-2009, 06:03 PM	#16
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 19	Sweet! I know that after I repainted the bay on my vert, and had to put all the stock CRAP back in there, I was really wishing that I could afford a standalone. I also absolutely despise how even the non abs stock brake line is routed, it's rubbish! This spring I am getting it redone for sure. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

12-08-2009, 07:54 AM	#17
-Six- Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 41 Rep Power: 0	Stand alone may also be in the works since I sold off my factory ECU...might as well upgrade. Last edited by -Six-; 12-08-2009 at 08:03 AM.

12-08-2009, 06:45 PM	#18
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	If you just want to keep it from getting worse, I recommend POR-15. It is a little expensive, but it works well for stopping rust. __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

12-08-2009, 09:29 PM	#19
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 19	nevermind. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! Last edited by Max777; 12-08-2009 at 10:19 PM.

12-09-2009, 03:50 PM	#24
BigIslandSevens Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Denver, NC Posts: 201 Rep Power: 18	I've used POR 15 in most of my rust repairs( surface rust) Deep rust really needs to be removed and a patch panel made. For all my surface rust, I just did as Ted says. Take it down to bare metal with a wire wheel. Hit it with the POR 15 a couple times. Then primer and fill as needed prior to paint. I needed to fill a couple little pits that had formed from leaking acid. I have not had any issues as of yet with the paint shrinking or popping. If you prepare the surface correctly, all the POR and filler should be sealed in with a final glaze to prevent any further absorbtion of paint materials. And yeah POR stains everything. Takes a good month to wear off the skin. Dave Last edited by BigIslandSevens; 12-09-2009 at 04:08 PM.

12-08-2009, 11:04 PM	#22
-Six- Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 41 Rep Power: 0	Thanks for the info Max, POR-15 was the one product I knew about, this is the first I have heard of Eastwood. Isn't the only sure fire way to deal with rust to grind it/sand it off completely, or would I still need to use a POR-15 type product?

12-15-2009, 09:21 AM	#25
-Six- Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 41 Rep Power: 0	Got my wire wheels and primer this weekend, still have to pick up some POR-15. Hoping to attack some rust this weekend.