Winter Storage, what to do...

DriFD3S · 09-29-2011, 03:53 AM

My FD is about to go back in the garage, for winter,
even though there isn't any snow yet......
But, does anyone here have any FREE ideas, on how to store the FD?
I plan on starting it once a week, and keeping the gas tank full,
the oil in it is less than 2000km old,
should this work fine? or is there an easier, better, JUST AS FREE way to store the FD?
(cheap isn't free, but, sometimes it's just cheap enough)
I already own engine fogger spray, which I bought last winter,
and never used, because I heard it could be bad,
But, that was from the OTHER FORUM.
Thanks guys!!

By the way, what does low oil pressure mean, when my oil is nice and full??...
My engine oil pressure was pretty low on the way home from work,
and even at 6000rpm, it didn't go over 1/3, it seems inconsistent, and sluggish, any ideas why???
I will drive it again tomorrow, and see what happens.

speedjunkie · 09-29-2011, 06:13 AM

You could put fuel stabilizer in the tank (Sta-Bil is the most common brand I know of) and disconnect the battery. If you do that and don't start it up, I'd think about pulling the fuel fuse and running it until it dies, that way you get the fuel out of the lines too. Also, depending on how cold it gets there and what your coolant/water ratio is, might want to drain the radiator, just in case. But all that is useless if you want to start it every week haha.

Are you still using your stock oil pressure gauge? If so, there is your reason LOL.

Signal 2 · 09-29-2011, 08:06 AM

Stock oil pressure sensors are known to have issues. But if your using a really thin viscosity when it's still relatively warm and/or you have some fuel dilution that will make a difference in what you see at the gauge.
I think if you still have the wax thermopellet in place that will also effect indicated pressure as well.

I prefer a quality battery tender to just unplugging the battery. I leave the coolant full but it's one of the things that typically gets changed in the spring when the car comes out of storage. I typically put the car up on stands and off the suspension. Not saying there's no value to them, but I've never used foggers.

***TitaniumTT*** · 09-29-2011, 10:25 AM

Tell that to the millions of boats that get winterized every year with the foggers.

Fill up gas tank.
Dose fuel with Sta-bil
Drive home
Fog engine till stalls
pull plugs and spra fogger into spark pug holes, rotate by hand to next chamber and repeat, reapeat this 5 more times.
Spray fogger on NEW plugs
put plugs back in
top off rad
store off the gnd
hook up battery tender
don't start until spring.

In spring, change oil, change coolant, turn key

My5ABaby · 09-29-2011, 01:44 PM

http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/storage.htm

lt1_fd3s · 09-29-2011, 02:29 PM

ship car to friend in area with warmer winter and let them drive it occasionally until you want it back?

FC Zach · 09-29-2011, 08:04 PM

^ what Tray said! I don't mind watching your FD, bring it on down!

IH8DSM · 09-29-2011, 08:52 PM

No bad zach no fd for you haha

As for the OPs question id say what brian said, that Sta bil is good stuff, also your washer fluid jug make sure its not just water/mostly water it'll crack the reservoir pretty easily if it freezes

***TitaniumTT*** · 09-29-2011, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My5ABaby

http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/storage.htm

WRONG! You change the oil AFTER you've fogged the engine, OR in the spring.

DriFD3S · 09-30-2011, 06:12 AM

I liked Aaroncake on the OTHER FORUM also,
that is one cool dude.

Thanks for the input guys,
But, I will say this:
SpeedJunkie, thank you.
Signal2, thank you.
TitaniumTT, if I could, I would change my oil before storage, and after storage, I do however need new plugs, so, thank you for helping my justify that cost, I also have an ignition booster that I am scared to touch.
My5ABaby, Good link! /favorited
lt1_fd3s, FC Zach, keep dreaming, but, good idea!
IH8DSM, I also hate DSM's. *brofist*

My5ABaby · 09-30-2011, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DriFD3S

I liked Aaroncake on the OTHER FORUM also,
that is one cool dude.

Thanks for the input guys,
But, I will say this:
SpeedJunkie, thank you.
Signal2, thank you.
TitaniumTT, if I could, I would change my oil before storage, and after storage, I do however need new plugs, so, thank you for helping my justify that cost, I also have an ignition booster that I am scared to touch.
My5ABaby, Good link! /favorited
lt1_fd3s, FC Zach, keep dreaming, but, good idea!
IH8DSM, I also hate DSM's. *brofist*

What's the reasoning behind changing it before storage?

Garfinkles Motor Works · 09-30-2011, 01:05 PM

Remove the acid build up .

93rx7r1 · 09-30-2011, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DriFD3S

By the way, what does low oil pressure mean, when my oil is nice and full??...
My engine oil pressure was pretty low on the way home from work,
and even at 6000rpm, it didn't go over 1/3, it seems inconsistent, and sluggish, any ideas why???
I will drive it again tomorrow, and see what happens.

Most likely your oil pressure sending unit. They commonly fail. You can try cleaning it or replacing it. A third option is just get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge.

09-29-2011, 03:53 AM	#1
DriFD3S Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada iTrader: (0) Posts: 174 Rep Power: 0	Winter Storage, what to do... My FD is about to go back in the garage, for winter, even though there isn't any snow yet...... But, does anyone here have any FREE ideas, on how to store the FD? I plan on starting it once a week, and keeping the gas tank full, the oil in it is less than 2000km old, should this work fine? or is there an easier, better, JUST AS FREE way to store the FD? (cheap isn't free, but, sometimes it's just cheap enough) I already own engine fogger spray, which I bought last winter, and never used, because I heard it could be bad, But, that was from the OTHER FORUM. Thanks guys!! By the way, what does low oil pressure mean, when my oil is nice and full??... My engine oil pressure was pretty low on the way home from work, and even at 6000rpm, it didn't go over 1/3, it seems inconsistent, and sluggish, any ideas why??? I will drive it again tomorrow, and see what happens. __________________ *Live the DriFD3S or die trying.* JDM True Story. the Vacuum line, to my MAP became detached while I was legally drifting. my engine would not rev past 2500, and idled from 300-650 and was stalling. Fortunately, I acquired a Zip-Tie. I fixed a catastrophic engine failure, With a Zip-Tie. JDM FTW.

09-29-2011, 08:06 AM	#3
Signal 2 Viable Fossil Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Mid-West iTrader: (0) Posts: 199 Rep Power: 17	Stock oil pressure sensors are known to have issues. But if your using a really thin viscosity when it's still relatively warm and/or you have some fuel dilution that will make a difference in what you see at the gauge. I think if you still have the wax thermopellet in place that will also effect indicated pressure as well. I prefer a quality battery tender to just unplugging the battery. I leave the coolant full but it's one of the things that typically gets changed in the spring when the car comes out of storage. I typically put the car up on stands and off the suspension. Not saying there's no value to them, but I've never used foggers. __________________ Jim VR R1 FD Last edited by Signal 2; 09-29-2011 at 08:10 AM..

09-29-2011, 10:25 AM	#4
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Tell that to the millions of boats that get winterized every year with the foggers. Fill up gas tank. Dose fuel with Sta-bil Drive home Fog engine till stalls pull plugs and spra fogger into spark pug holes, rotate by hand to next chamber and repeat, reapeat this 5 more times. Spray fogger on NEW plugs put plugs back in top off rad store off the gnd hook up battery tender don't start until spring. In spring, change oil, change coolant, turn key __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

09-29-2011, 01:44 PM	#5
My5ABaby Sigh..... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,377 Rep Power: 19	http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/storage.htm __________________ 1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."

09-29-2011, 02:29 PM	#6
lt1_fd3s WNC Tour Guide Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: WNC iTrader: (3) Posts: 780 Rep Power: 17	ship car to friend in area with warmer winter and let them drive it occasionally until you want it back? __________________ WNC Tour Guide - Including the Tail of the Dragon - PM for details

09-29-2011, 06:13 AM	#2
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO iTrader: (1) Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 19	You could put fuel stabilizer in the tank (Sta-Bil is the most common brand I know of) and disconnect the battery. If you do that and don't start it up, I'd think about pulling the fuel fuse and running it until it dies, that way you get the fuel out of the lines too. Also, depending on how cold it gets there and what your coolant/water ratio is, might want to drain the radiator, just in case. But all that is useless if you want to start it every week haha. Are you still using your stock oil pressure gauge? If so, there is your reason LOL.

09-29-2011, 08:04 PM	#7
FC Zach RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Eagleville, TN iTrader: (2) Posts: 2,267 Rep Power: 19	^ what Tray said! I don't mind watching your FD, bring it on down! __________________ 1993 Yamaha GTS1000 1992 Celica Turbo AllTrac 1987 RX7 Sport 1979 Yamaha G1, KM24 powered 1975 Dolmar KMS4

09-29-2011, 08:52 PM	#8
IH8DSM RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 610 Rep Power: 17	No bad zach no fd for you haha As for the OPs question id say what brian said, that Sta bil is good stuff, also your washer fluid jug make sure its not just water/mostly water it'll crack the reservoir pretty easily if it freezes __________________ 85 rx7 gsl-se - AA tags/ never ending project will never run

09-30-2011, 06:12 AM	#10
DriFD3S Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada iTrader: (0) Posts: 174 Rep Power: 0	I liked Aaroncake on the OTHER FORUM also, that is one cool dude. Thanks for the input guys, But, I will say this: SpeedJunkie, thank you. Signal2, thank you. TitaniumTT, if I could, I would change my oil before storage, and after storage, I do however need new plugs, so, thank you for helping my justify that cost, I also have an ignition booster that I am scared to touch. My5ABaby, Good link! /favorited lt1_fd3s, FC Zach, keep dreaming, but, good idea! IH8DSM, I also hate DSM's. brofist __________________ *Live the DriFD3S or die trying.* JDM True Story. the Vacuum line, to my MAP became detached while I was legally drifting. my engine would not rev past 2500, and idled from 300-650 and was stalling. Fortunately, I acquired a Zip-Tie. I fixed a catastrophic engine failure, With a Zip-Tie. JDM FTW.

09-30-2011, 01:05 PM	#12
Garfinkles Motor Works RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (11) Posts: 535 Rep Power: 17	Remove the acid build up .

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