Sometimes you just have to know when to start over...

[Max777]

If you didn't use a drill, it doesn't count... haha. I have used a needle for that shit too, and acne as well back when I had problems with it.

[Nismo]

Anyone know where can get a 50mm HKS wastgate inlet flange?

[Nismo]

Thought, I would post up how I removed the Exhaust port sleeves, and why:

Here is why:


Here is how:
Clean the carbon off, I recommend, brake clean

Stick the Trusty, MIG welder in there and blast away until you have a nice mound of weld

Attach Vice Grips, and wiggle out

Voila, no more Sleeve in housing!!


I apologize for the crappy pics, but you get the Idea

Cheers,

Kevin

[TitaniumTT]

Kevin, are you still in need of a full set of injectors and a 1:1 RR Reg?

[Nismo]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Kevin, are you still in need of a full set of injectors and a 1:1 RR Reg?

Nope, I have lots of fuel, and I have a Aeromotive with 3/8" NPT inlets, and outlet, I'm good, I have a .96A/R Turbine housing coming for my Turbo tho, I spose it's a TO4E O trim... Just bought seals, and corner seals, so I guess I could start clearancing the seals...

[TitaniumTT]

You still planning on making DGRRX?

[Nismo]

Donno bud, I spose I could drive my car down there STOCK, no turbos, no RE or anything... Just have to transfer it into my name, and get insurance...

[Nismo]

Well, I think it's time for an update, I have some time off (laid off) waiting for a call for another job, and I figure I better get my butt in gear.

I never did update this thread before with the lower arm bar, so I will post those pics as well.

Here is the lower control are bar I made, pretty easy really get some 1" tube and crusj the ends in a press, and drill a few holes and you are good to go.



Here it is installed:



Tearing the front subframe down so I can wash and repaint it:


Now in order to make way for the new subframe to go in I have to dismantle the one currently on the car; I'm sure a few FC owners can agree with me here, getting the brake rotors off the front is a MAJOR cluster fuck... I found away to get the bastards off, I made a few new swear words up a few years ago, when I was hammering them off, and even with my hydraulic press I couldn't get them off so this is what I did:

Here are the Siamese twins, you separate them and you kill one of them, usually the rotor, it's cheaper than going to a shop, and not that hard or time consuming, took about 25mins or so:



Take Mr.Grinder, and cut notches in the hat of the rotor, you will see a hole in the middle stop grinding there:



Insert cold chisel with a hammer:



You will actually crack the rotor and this separates the the hub from the rotor partially. Be careful when doing this you don't want a chunk of rotor coming off at 120MPH:



Oh, and you thought it would just pop off now right? Not so much... Reinstall it on the car with a bolt through the strut, and on the ball joint mounting points:





Insert a prybar between the rotor and the brake caliper mounting boss and hammer in that starts the separation even more:



and one in the lower mounting boss:



After the prybars no longer fit in there, hit the rotor with a hammer, and rotate it a 1/4 turn every strike until this happens:



Here is why they don't separate...:



Have fun, and I'll be more vigilant on the updates now!

[WE3RX7]

I have never had that much trouble getting brake rotors off my FC, or any vehicle for that matter, lol... WTF. Was it just that corroded? I mean, the hubs are AL so to prevent this reason of rusting solid on the rotor... I've had to use an air hammer and some deep creep but thats about it...

Although, I just saw your in Ontario. Corrosion there must be much worse

[Nismo]

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

I have never had that much trouble getting brake rotors off my FC, or any vehicle for that matter, lol... WTF. Was it just that corroded? I mean, the hubs are AL so to prevent this reason of rusting solid on the rotor... I've had to use an air hammer and some deep creep but thats about it...

Although, I just saw your in Ontario. Corrosion there must be much worse

I have never had an easy time, the car has 75k miles, so they could be the originals. Also when you put two disimilar metals together you are going to get corrosion like that, specially with heat cycling like you see on a brake rotor.

[WE3RX7]

Yea... but I'm thinking the northern weather doesn't help. I've pulled original rotors from a 7 with 82K miles (on the rotors) and they still came off fairly clean... it was a florida car though...

[Nismo]

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

Yea... but I'm thinking the northern weather doesn't help. I've pulled original rotors from a 7 with 82K miles (on the rotors) and they still came off fairly clean... it was a florida car though...

Being on the Ocean can't help, but that must be nice LOL my 20ton press couldn't get them off it was crazy!!

[Max777]

did you try a sledge hammer? Those work great for me.

[Nismo]

Originally Posted by Max777

did you try a sledge hammer? Those work great for me.

Can't swing a sledge in the wheel well, and a Minisledge in on my need to buy list.

I have been busy, cleaning, stripping and painting everything bolted to the front subframe this week, should have updates in a few days!

[TitaniumTT]

oxy/ace torch and a deadblow has never failed me. Hell the torch and a #3 screwdriver has always worked when the impact fails to get the holding screws out

What are you using for secondary rails and injectors Kevin?