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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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#16 | |
rotors excite me
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 372
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
Now that's what I like to hear!
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He isn't a killer. He just wins -- thoroughly. ![]() ![]() '87 TII 240+ rwhp on my DIY streetport, ~13psi on stock turbo, Racing Beat REVTII exhaust ![]() rTek 2.1 awaits a tune Quote:
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#17 |
Out of Nickels and Dimes
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 192
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
Pic 1. Air Bleed Solenoid, it's an emissions part. Not to counter anyone else's advice but I suggest you put it back unless you've done your homework and you know what it does and why.
Pic 2. Intake filter box assy. I see you said you got an adapter from auto zone... Keep in mind that the air flow meter you see sitting in front of the intake hose is REQUIRED or the vehicle will not run for more than a couple of seconds after you start it. I'm not sure if you can find an adapter to fit that at auto zone but that's pretty cool if you did. It should look something like the metal adapter pictured in this ebay listing: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-92...ht_4167wt_1085 3. Coolant fill cap assy... missing the cap and the little adapter that mounts on the filler neck. http://www.mazdatrix.com/b8.htm Also, I see in pic two that you're missing the radiator fan shroud. I HIGHLY recommend you replace it and also check to be sure that the splash gaurd is installed under the engine. These are both essential to direct airflow through the radiator and engine bay and heat is a major concern in these old rotaries. There should also be a two piece plastic cover over the gap between the engine bay and the front bumper, I can't see if it's there in the pics. This is also important for directing air through the radiator, if it's missing you can pic up a nice one piece replacement from corksport. http://corksport.com/store/category/...rx-Engine.html
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1988 GXL |
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#18 |
The Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 27
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
i already have the intake adapter and all the plastic pieces that you mentioned.
but really..50 bucks for a small piece?does anyone have one used? |
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#19 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Influx.
Posts: 2,113
Rep Power: 19 ![]() |
again i do. lol.
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The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group |
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#20 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 302
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
i got one at autozone for $15
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My car blows up everytime I start it, it's rotary ![]() ![]() |
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#21 |
The Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 27
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
so did i yesterday.
thanks |
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#22 |
The Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 27
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
well..they had the wrong part...but now i have the car running..sorta..it starts up then shuts right off.idk what the problem is.help?
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#23 |
The Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 27
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
and i still need the parts in pic 1 and pic 3
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#24 |
Out of Nickels and Dimes
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 192
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
Un-metered intake air is known to cause this issue. Make sure you have the Air Flow Meter (AFM) installed, connected, and is sitting level (it uses a flap to measure incoming air so if it's not level the flap may be affected by gravity and the reading may be off). Also check for major vacuum leaks. The car runs because the ECU ignores the AFM during startup but as soon as it switches from the "start" sequence to "run" the car dies because the AFM reading is too far off from what's actually making it into the intake.
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1988 GXL |
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#25 |
The Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 27
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
il try that out later. just woke up.
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#26 | |
Sigh.....
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 2,377
Rep Power: 19 ![]() |
Quote:
(Correct me if I get any of this wrong) I talked to him earlier and it runs for about a minute then shuts off. It idles at about 1500rpm roughly, and then no matter what (hitting the gas, not, etc.) it just dies after a while. Every vacuum leak I've ever had it's possible to keep the car running by hitting the gas (including when I left the BAC hose off so there was a HUGE amount of unmetered air going into the engine [granted it would only run at over 5k rpm, but it started and did run]).
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
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#27 | |
RCC Loves Me Not You
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Influx.
Posts: 2,113
Rep Power: 19 ![]() |
Quote:
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The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group |
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#28 | |
Sigh.....
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 2,377
Rep Power: 19 ![]() |
Quote:
The injector thought could be plausible. It was in a field before he bought it and he's been working on getting the bad gas out. However, again, why does it shut off no matter what? This is all based on the assumption that I understand the problem correct from a 5 minute phone call. ![]()
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
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