The ideal Naturally Aspirated Rotary!

[Evil Aviator]

Originally Posted by aaronoverholser

I would like to stay EFI, I would much rather adjust the system with a computer or programmer than to have to be fiddling with jets all the time. Which EFI system is best, a custom intake and a standalone or just keep the stock system?

All of the standalone EFI units do about the same thing, so just choose one that has local support. You don't want to rely on a long distance phone call to Australia every time you need help, and it is much better to have hands-on help available. The optimal intake would be an aftermarket "Weber IDA" manifold with an aftermarket 2-barrel butterfly-type throttle body. Examples:
http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_...roducts_id=117
http://www.twminduction.com/Throttle...leBody-FR.html
http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/carb_vs_fi.pdf

Originally Posted by aaronoverholser

I am wanting to know what type of engine I should look to buy and what components to put on it. Should I find a wrecked RX8 and take the renesis or get a TII 4port motor and port it or get a 6 port like I have and port it? Or should I leave the 6 port as is and just refresh it?

That is a debate that will go on long past the time that we all die of old age.

Originally Posted by aaronoverholser

Why not a turbo?... maybe I should.

Turbocharging is good for a street rotary because you can gain horsepower and torque without gaining excessive noise. The downside is that you will want to upgrade the drivetrain to TII specs in order to handle that extra torque, and the engine turbo upgrade isn't all that cheap or easy unless you use mostly stock TII parts, although that is also an option. I am not sure if there are still cheap J-Spec TII engines available from Japan after the recent disaster.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by Max777

aka: 13b-rew converted to N/A, exessive intake manifold, haltech ems. However this will make you run into some challeges like mounting of the engine and etc.

I really think this is extreme and a waste of money.
13B-REW is running 9.0:1 rotors.
The non-turbo S5 13B already runs higher compression rotors.

If you're going to strip the intake manifolds anyways, get ITB's and savor your top end performance.

The reason for this is that the rew has some updated stuff, like the TPS, the coil packs are "neat" unlike the FC, it doesnt have the stupid ugly CAS, it's got multi-rib belts instead of the annoying v belts, and it's just a nicer engine all together.

I don't know why you're arguing stock EFI components when you've already mentioned aftermarket EMS?
That doesn't make any sense.
If you're going to this extreme, most people would opt for almost everything aftermarket anyways - arguing stock parts is a waste of time.

I don't get the hate for the ignition triggers either...
The stock FC CAS is superior, IMNSHO, than the FD igniton trigger wheel.
Both do the same thing, and outside of the physical appearance, both output basically the same signal.
I've seen FD mag pick-up's FAIL; I've never seen an FC CAS fail yet.
The FC CAS is superior cause it's enclosed - no worried about crap being throw at it, as exposed mag pick-up's are susceptible to debris and damage.
(Racers who have run the Electromotive set-up have already proven this.)
So it just sounds like you just don't like the way it "looks"...

Same goes with the belts...

The biggest reason however is that the REW is a 4 port and has bigger intake runners stock than an S5 TII, so you could do quite a nice steet port and be done.

Define "bigger"?
The non-turbo 13B 6-port engines run more duration on it's 6-port intake ports.

another option would be to do what was suggested before: Individual throttle bodies and a standalone.

*confused*


-Ted