The ideal Naturally Aspirated Rotary!
 

Hey guys I want your opinions,

I have an 86' GXL that has been my project car for the last 6 years. I do a few things to improve it each year and then drive it throughout the summer. It is my toy that i enjoy working on almost as much as driving.

This summarizes my car so far so that you know what I am after:

The first things I did with the car was just to fix little bugs and get it up and running. I then upgraded the exhaust to a full Racing beat system and deleted the air pump. I replaced the clutch with one near factory standard as far as Horse rating and added a koyo radiator.

I have fixed all the imperfections in the body and repainted it the factory dover white. I sanded down my factory GXL aluminum rims until they were smooth and the worked my way up until they shined like new ones. In the interior I have replaced most of the old brittle plastic with Carbon Fiber pieces and upgraded the stereo. This year I took of all of the air conditioning parts that I hadn't been using anyways.

I now have all the parts here that are necessary to upgrade the suspension system. All new bushings and a complete Racing beat setup of sway bars and struts and shocks that will lower it 1".

So as you can tell my project it is coming together quite nicely, but I have ever touched the engine. The engine is exactly the reason I bought this car because rotary's fascinate me, but I have never worked on one. I want to purchase all the necessary parts to build an engine for my car, while leaving the current engine in my car. I will build this replacement engine in the shop then swap it in when I'm finished. So I need your help. What should I build?

I want to do all the work myself and take my time doing it so that I can learn as I go. The car will remain Naturally Aspirated, so I want to know what the ideal setup would be for street performance. I will never race the car I just want to cruise around, make noise, and have fun. I would like to remain somewhat moderate on budget and retain my Racing beat exhaust, clutch and transmission. I know the horse won't be anything like a turboed engine, but that's not what I am after. I want a to build it to show quality and just cruise around in it.

Got any ideas?

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...ead.php?t=3181

That might help. I personally wouldn't go with a bridgeport (or anything bigger) for a street machine/DD, but that's me.

Half-bridge, ITB's, Megasquirt.

Boom, happy fun time.

Moved more appropriately to the 2nd gen section...
You should get a lot more responses there.


-Ted

What preference, carburetor or EFI?

He said "ideal", so EFI of course. :rofl:

:fawk: :68: (robert)

I would like to stay EFI, I would much rather adjust the system with a computer or programmer than to have to be fiddling with jets all the time. Which EFI system is best, a custom intake and a standalone or just keep the stock system?

I am wanting to know what type of engine I should look to buy and what components to put on it. Should I find a wrecked RX8 and take the renesis or get a TII 4port motor and port it or get a 6 port like I have and port it? Or should I leave the 6 port as is and just refresh it?

What's your budget?

What's the prospect? If you've done this before, my opinion would be different,

aka: 13b-rew converted to N/A, exessive intake manifold, haltech ems. However this will make you run into some challeges like mounting of the engine and etc.

The reason for this is that the rew has some updated stuff, like the TPS, the coil packs are "neat" unlike the FC, it doesnt have the stupid ugly CAS, it's got multi-rib belts instead of the annoying v belts, and it's just a nicer engine all together.

The biggest reason however is that the REW is a 4 port and has bigger intake runners stock than an S5 TII, so you could do quite a nice steet port and be done.

another option would be to do what was suggested before: Individual throttle bodies and a standalone. This keeps your stock engine but deletes a LOT of the finicky stuff that pisses me off to all hell about the n/a FC setup.

Why is there such a strong bias against turbochargers btw? with these engines, it's the best gang bang for the buck.

Why not a turbo?... maybe I should.

I was all about the turbo idea until I found that for a daily driver, you really don't need one.
The NA is plenty unless you want to drag race or have an amazing need for acceleration (my NA will get over 0.7 gs acceleration in first gear).

I have to agree with My5ABaby, your budget has a lot to do with this.

The best bet on getting the parts to build an engine is to buy a blown engine (almost always a single rotor and housing is bad, the rest is fine) and source parts that you need from eBay or this forum. Get a 4-port if you can, they have much more potential than a 6-port.

Using the stock ECU, you are far better off going Turbo. Using a standalone, you can get stock turbo power without the turbo and reliability issues that go with it.

I don't watch my AFR, my timing, my IAT, or my EGT when I stand on the gas peddle, I simply watch the speedo and tach. I don't have to worry about going lean and warping or destroying a seal, detonating and damaging a seal or damaging my turbo, I just stand on the gas until it hit the rev limiter and jam the next gear. (There is something to be said for that).

You do realize that the FC coils are an upgrade from FD coils right?

+1

(Sarcastic pic edited - was that really necessary? -RETed)


But they dont require you to stretch wiring all over the engine bay, an you can just run the coil wiring with the emissions harness. Besides, you can upgrade them with MSD units or w/e.

As far as watching all the gauges: there should be no reason that you should have to watch all that shit 100%of the time. The gauges are a nice touch for setting up your cooling system, engine tune, and a lot of of other detail things. After the car is built and fully tested, only an occasional glance at the gauges should be necessary because shit happens so fast, you dont have time to look at the gauges anyway.