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| Show your rotary car build up. Show off your Rotary Car build! |
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#1 |
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Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,016
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Had a question on it so I'll post this a little early.
I'm going stir crazy waiting for more pipe from RB, so I started figuring out the other big bug-a-boo with this swap. Cooling. Since the rotary requires far more cooling than the original piston engine, and frontal area is so limited, I had to plan out some rather strange stuff. The FC radiator is a single pass unit with 374 square inches of frontal area. The oil cooler carries about 30% of the engine cooling and is about 91.5 square inches of frontal area. The original MG radiator has only 140 square inches of frontal area and no oil cooler standard. Obviously we have a problem Houston. The tiny opening was going to need some rethinking to get a lot bigger radiator in there, not to mention what to do about an oil cooler. Here's a picture of the original opening after I had made some cuts to open it up a little. The Diet Coke box was supposed to only be background so you could see the opening better. Didn't work so well, but you get what you pay for. radiator opening 1 by Kevin Frank, on FlickrI'm going to open it up to the full width of the car. Removing the front stubs of the upper frame rails so I can fit the side tanks all the way up against the sides and maximize my radiator size with a 14" x 28" double pass radiator. I'm still down a little on frontal area from the FC radiator at only about 336 square inches, but I hope the extra efficiency of the double pass unit will make up the difference. Unfortunately it is going to have to be custom made so it's going to be expensive. The oil cooler I plan to use is an 11"x11" square stacked plate cooler that I will set underneath the radiator and between the frame rails. It is actually about 30 square inches larger in surface are than the original. However because I plan to mount it flat, (not much choice as there is just no room anywhere else), it will have less than great air flow. I plan to run a shallow scoop under the car to gather air for the oil cooler and run the fan shroud over the cooler along with the fan so that it draws air through both. A picture of the radiator opening, partially opened. radiator opening 2 by Kevin Frank, on FlickrI have to finish opening it up on the top pieces and cut down the frame rails.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#2 |
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RCC Loves Me Not You
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Eagleville, TN
Posts: 2,267
Rep Power: 20 ![]() |
Liking the built and the opinion pictorial from your Flickr account
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1993 Yamaha GTS1000 1992 Celica Turbo AllTrac 1987 RX7 Sport 1979 Yamaha G1, KM24 powered 1975 Dolmar KMS4 |
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#3 | |
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⊙⊙
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great Falls
Posts: 1,258
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
There is also the option of upping the coolant flow rate also Gunny and or pusher and puller fans.
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#4 | |
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Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,016
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Quote:
I'll have to see once it's up and running.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#5 | ||
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⊙⊙
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great Falls
Posts: 1,258
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
Quote:
Yeah you seem to be close enough to spec so I would think a half puller on each for emergency use will be fine. That way you get the best of both free air and forced air when needed. I see a lot of non clutch fan converted to E-Fan race cars and they all run the fans to the oil cooler. If temp gets around 180 while idling kick on the fan and the temp just drops.
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#6 | |
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Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,016
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Quote:
edit: I used the opinion picture on EJ the other day. I have to keep an eye out and collect these little tid bits so I can defend myself 'round this place.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 Last edited by GySgtFrank; 06-15-2015 at 11:52 PM. |
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#7 | |
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Waffles - hmmm good
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 757
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
Quote:
I always thought this would be a neat swap but after seeing the amount of fabbing needed I certainly wouldn't try it. Thanks Gunny for sharing.
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1980 GS stockport, Fat Nikki, RB Dual Facetfuel pumps, Holley regulator, RB Street port exhaust, 2GDFIS, MR2 MK I electric fans, 2G strut bar, relayed fans, lights and fuel pump, LEDs Project Fat Nikki Budget 12A rebuild Video setup < $30.00 |
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#8 | |
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Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,016
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Quote:
Glad it helps. I have done more fabricating than what most would probably consider really necessary, but I'm picky on how I want it to fit. There is a fair amount of fabrication involved with this swap no matter how you go about it though.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#9 |
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Lifetime Rotorhead
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elkton, MD
Posts: 874
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
This is an out-of-the-box thought, but have you considered relocating the radiator and/or oil cooler out back? That would present a bunch of other problems, like proper airflow and plumbing/packaging, but it might give you more space to work with and solve the capacity/radiator size issue.
You don't need no steen-king trunk space, right?
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#10 | |
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Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,016
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Quote:
This car is tiny. I had forgotten just how small they were until I bought the damn thing. It is about 10 1/2 feet long without the bumpers, 48 1/4" tall, and only 4'5" wide. I'm already going to have to cut into my trunk space (or should I say "the rear glove box"?) later in order to expand my fuel tank a bit when I modify it for an in tank pump and cup for the fuel injection. The original fuel tank is only a 7 gallon tank which may be a bit less than optimal with a rotary.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#11 | |
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RCC Addict
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
Posts: 1,813
Rep Power: 19 ![]() |
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Can't you just cut the core down and redo the endtanks for your application? Can't be more than $100 in labor and welding locally? -Ted |
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#12 |
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Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,016
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
The one local place, that I would trust with something like that, won't do that kind of work on aluminum radiators. They must have gotten burned on it at one time or another for them to be that gun shy of it. I don't have the means to weld aluminum myself. I really need to do something about that lack one of these days.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#13 | |
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RCC Addict
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
Posts: 1,813
Rep Power: 19 ![]() |
Quote:
You should be able to find one close, and it shouldn't cost more than $300...? -Ted |
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