Coolant & Oil temperatures

[rotar bones]

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

The 06 and newer RX8s have 6spd autos.. you could do that swap.

Worn grommets? Please elaborate.

To be honest I am not sure I am qualified for that , but I know my way around cars in general to be a good assistant.

I was referring to some gromets on the front endsteering control arms, I think control arms?. I noticed it on the lift the other day. A small part of the rubber or I think plastic grommet left a space between the two componets. I am still tracking down the original sound that made me look in the first place.

[Rotary Evolution]

don't mind ted, he is an agry induvidual with a chip on his shoulder to drag everyone down to his discontent level.

i see nothing wrong with increasing the coolant volume of the system and lowering the fan temps 10-15 degrees, it may work the fans harder but it certainly won't blow out a thermostat, it is the first i've even heard of or seen such a thing mentioned. even if the t-stat does fail it will fail in the open position which will result in longer warmups which you will notice on the aftermarket gauge. result being more fuel consumption and lacking performance, but additional wear? i want to see lab results on that one.

afaik he doesn't own an 8 or know any of the failure points on them. the plastic radiator is a ticking timebomb with the stock fan temps set from the factory and with the age these cars are reaching now. one overheat and the coolant seals may just be done.

you're on the right path of thinking so don't feel like you aren't. the stock system is borderline undersize for extreme situations, which is also why i assume you are upgrading. increased temps and more pressure overworking the soft, aging plastic cooling system components isn't exactly my ideal scenario. out here in the desert where temps hit 117+ regularly we have to be prepared and the stock radiator and fan turn on temps simply don't cut it on a car which is held together by 10 year old rubber bands on the inside.

i once thought about making this forum my home but then i looked around at all the high and mighty self serving induviduals who run this place.. some info may be more true and some is just total BS to make posters feel foolish, which will never allow this forum to actually grow.

[rotar bones]

Originally Posted by Rotary Evolution

don't mind ted, he is an agry induvidual with a chip on his shoulder to drag everyone down to his discontent level.

i see nothing wrong with increasing the coolant volume of the system and lowering the fan temps 10-15 degrees, it may work the fans harder but it certainly won't blow out a thermostat, it is the first i've even heard of or seen such a thing mentioned. even if the t-stat does fail it will fail in the open position which will result in longer warmups which you will notice on the aftermarket gauge. result being more fuel consumption and lacking performance, but additional wear? i want to see lab results on that one.

afaik he doesn't own an 8 or know any of the failure points on them. the plastic radiator is a ticking timebomb with the stock fan temps set from the factory and with the age these cars are reaching now. one overheat and the coolant seals may just be done.

you're on the right path of thinking so don't feel like you aren't. the stock system is borderline undersize for extreme situations, which is also why i assume you are upgrading. increased temps and more pressure overworking the soft, aging plastic cooling system components isn't exactly my ideal scenario. out here in the desert where temps hit 117+ regularly we have to be prepared and the stock radiator and fan turn on temps simply don't cut it on a car which is held together by 10 year old rubber bands on the inside.

i once thought about making this forum my home but then i looked around at all the high and mighty self serving induviduals who run this place.. some info may be more true and some is just total BS to make posters feel foolish, which will never allow this forum to actually grow.

No worries mate: I agree with you that the cooling system is border line especially when stressed. I was running the mountains at 10,000 feet and today was the first time I really laid really hard on the 8 and I made the dash needle move up some . I pulled over, opened the hood and let it idle till te cooling fans went off. No problem going home but it does accent the point tat my thinking is correct in wanting more cooling as I run mine pretty hard. It isn't my daily driver, it is my toy thing.

I wasn't put off with the pugilistic attitude. It sort of reminded me of that other site were every one seems to be pugilistic, but no worries because here I have been told I can defend my self. It sounds like he is beating a dead horse. I didn't spit any cooling fluid so I just proved the cooling system is working but that it is in my opinion undersized or as you put it border line. You are probably more right there.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by Rotary Evolution

don't mind ted, he is an agry induvidual with a chip on his shoulder to drag everyone down to his discontent level.

i see nothing wrong with increasing the coolant volume of the system and lowering the fan temps 10-15 degrees, it may work the fans harder but it certainly won't blow out a thermostat, it is the first i've even heard of or seen such a thing mentioned. even if the t-stat does fail it will fail in the open position which will result in longer warmups which you will notice on the aftermarket gauge. result being more fuel consumption and lacking performance, but additional wear? i want to see lab results on that one.

afaik he doesn't own an 8 or know any of the failure points on them. the plastic radiator is a ticking timebomb with the stock fan temps set from the factory and with the age these cars are reaching now. one overheat and the coolant seals may just be done.

you're on the right path of thinking so don't feel like you aren't. the stock system is borderline undersize for extreme situations, which is also why i assume you are upgrading. increased temps and more pressure overworking the soft, aging plastic cooling system components isn't exactly my ideal scenario. out here in the desert where temps hit 117+ regularly we have to be prepared and the stock radiator and fan turn on temps simply don't cut it on a car which is held together by 10 year old rubber bands on the inside.

i once thought about making this forum my home but then i looked around at all the high and mighty self serving induviduals who run this place.. some info may be more true and some is just total BS to make posters feel foolish, which will never allow this forum to actually grow.

Nice, coming from someone who has no idea how to tune a stable idle...

For the record, my 1987 Turbo II with it's stock radiator has gone through Sac summers up to 115F and Vegas summers over 120F...
No problems.
This was back in 1999 - 2002, which makes the radiator 13 - 16 years old...original radiator...plastic end tanks and all.
Original stock viscous fan pulled...
Electric fan installed - 16" Spal single...
Turn on temps was set at 230F indicated on an SPI water temp gauge...
Turn off temps was set at 200F indicated on an SPI water temp gauge...
The car was making ~260hp at the wheels...obviously turbo'd motor.

That pretty much breaks all of your bullshit claims you stated above.
Don't you feel stupid now...


-Ted

[WE3RX7]

Originally Posted by RETed

For the record, my 1987 Turbo II with it's stock radiator has gone through Sac summers up to 115F and Vegas summers over 120F...
No problems.
This was back in 1999 - 2002, which makes the radiator 13 - 16 years old...original radiator...plastic end tanks and all.
Original stock viscous fan pulled...
Electric fan installed - 16" Spal single...
Turn on temps was set at 230F indicated on an SPI water temp gauge...
Turn off temps was set at 200F indicated on an SPI water temp gauge...
The car was making ~260hp at the wheels...obviously turbo'd motor.

-Ted

Agreed. My turbo RX8 with stock radiator (had a PWR but never installed it) ran around 200F regularly, no issues at 8psi and 260whp with coolant temps. Oh - and it had an intercooler in front of the radiator heating up the air going into the radiator itself. So yea, must be a very inefficient system from the factory


For the record, I do run a Koyo radiator in my current RX8 for reasons other than cooling temperatures. These reasons include minor weight savings and most importantly, it can take minor impacts during an "off".. I run stock OEM fans with modified switch values to turn on a little earlier (182F) to help in paddock cooldowns.

[Sephitrask]

Originally Posted by rotar bones

To be honest I am not sure I am qualified for that , but I know my way around cars in general to be a good assistant.

I was referring to some gromets on the front endsteering control arms, I think control arms?. I noticed it on the lift the other day. A small part of the rubber or I think plastic grommet left a space between the two componets. I am still tracking down the original sound that made me look in the first place.

got a picture? Sounds like you may be describing broken end links. Look anything like this?

[rotar bones]

Originally Posted by Sephitrask

got a picture? Sounds like you may be describing broken end links. Look anything like this?

Its not the part that is pulled a part but the larger swing arm. The plastic or rubber on each end of the swing arm connecting bolt. The outer edges are chipped away around its outer edge. . It isn't critical but more a winter job.

[rotar bones]

Definition of an expert: " A drip under pressure".

[Sephitrask]

Originally Posted by rotar bones

Its not the part that is pulled a part but the larger swing arm. The plastic or rubber on each end of the swing arm connecting bolt. The outer edges are chipped away around its outer edge. . It isn't critical but more a winter job.

ok, so your lower control arm bushings are bad and need to be replaced, got it

[Sephitrask]

Guys can you take it to PM or the lounge please? It would suck to start getting thread movement here only to have it bogged down by off topic arguments. I appreciate both of your contributions to the site, can't you play nice?

[RETed]

Originally Posted by Sephitrask

Guys can you take it to PM or the lounge please? It would suck to start getting thread movement here only to have it bogged down by off topic arguments. I appreciate both of your contributions to the site, can't you play nice?

It doesn't hurt to ask...


-Ted

[RETed]

Need I remind you that this is a TECH subsection.
Knock off the extracurricular talk, as there was already a prior request to clean it up.
If we can't keep it on topic, I'm locking the thread up.
Recent off-topic replies have been deleted.


-Ted

[rotar bones]

bought new control arm bushings.

[rotar bones]

After running my 8 up and down the mountains all summer my winter project is to relocate my oil cooler and purchase the coolant relay kit mentioned by sephitrask. I don't track my 8 but I must say running up the mountains at 10,00 feet on a 90 degree F day is as far as heat soak goes the same as tracking. I made my coolant gauge move a little on a few runs up and down the mountains and I feel the change is some thing I need to do. I will take pics and post when done.

[rotar bones]

I have found that spraying out my oil cooler and radiator does help the system work as well as designed. The cooling system is working fairly well but for what I do/ driving the mountain roads , the stock radiator on my rx8 isn't quite enough to cool with out always bumping the gauge. My winter project is to move the oil coolers location and install my digital gauges. As well as some other thing which aren't this thread.