Molykote 111

[RETed]

I wanted to split off the discussion buried in a thread in the 3G section, as this is some valuable info...

Originally from:
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...ad.php?t=15137

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

I used Hylomar once on the advise from Jim Tanner @ Racing Beat, that was the worst shit I have ever used in my life! I am not sure why anyone would use that trash.

I use Molykote 111 Valve and O'Ring lubricant



, it is a non hardening silicone made by Dow Corning (the inventors of silicone! and also supply it to fill bitches titties!) and it is the ULTIMATE for lubricating all O'rings and oil seals, it lasts the life of the motor and there is no head fuck clean up associated with its use unlike Hylomar!

For the legs and pan and anywhere else you need a seal 3 bond 1215 is the go.



OEM seal, OEM look, OEM no leaks! PERIOD!



SHIT needs to be CLEAN!!! EAT OFF IT CLEAN!!!! most don't do this and wonder why they get a leak LOL noobies, nobodies, internet dwellers

[RETed]

Hey RICE RACING, is that stuff "silicone grease"?
Or is its viscosity thicker like Hylomar?

I use silicone grease for saltwater diving, so I'm familiar with the stuff.

Good thing is that there's at least one eBay seller in the USA that sells that stuff for $16 per 100g tube.

I've gotten good with using the Permatex Hylomar HPF stuff, so it doesn't bother me anymore.
It's just that I'm down to my last tube and maybe got 2 rebuilds left in it.


-Ted

[RICE RACING]

The best way to describe it is its just like Dow Corning 732 Silicone in a gun tube, except it never ever goes hard. It's thiker and stickier than grease. Trust me the first time you use it you will thank me long time like one of those oriental hookers "love you long time"...... it is that good.

I use it to lube ALL rubbers, o'rings, gaps between the oil lip and dust seal on front and rear mains etc, even the rubber washers that go on the through bolts...

Post back when you use it. Don't use it on the oil control ring rubbers though, cause the oil control rings will pop out all the time when you are assembling the engine you are working on, apart from that little tip you will love this stuff. I have been using it for around 16 years now.

[730RWHP12A]

i just ordered some! this is why i love this forum..

[just startn]

I use Hondabond for sealant. It is not to expensive and readily avail. Im not big on permatex ect. Hondabond has been reliable for me and from my experience seems like a good product.

[Mazdabater]

We have assembly fluid at work for when o rings sorta need to be glued in place, never built a rotary myself but is there any reason this stuff isn't used?

[Mazdabater]

http://www.ultracheminc.com/producti...BLY_FLUID1.pdf

It's probably not cheap though, if we use it in gas turbine engines why not a rotary lol

[just startn]

Rice- were do you order your molykote from?

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by just startn

Rice- were do you order your molykote from?

My local parts shop keeps Valve and O'Ring lube 111 at my request, that and 3 Bond 1215.
Ring Dow Corning (they are the makers and inventors of Silicone and they run the Molykote brand) they will tell you a local stockist to you

[just startn]

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

My local parts shop keeps Valve and O'Ring lube 111 at my request, that and 3 Bond 1215.
Ring Dow Corning (they are the makers and inventors of Silicone and they run the Molykote brand) they will tell you a local stockist to you

Like this. Labeled Dow right on it
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DOW-CORNING-...item35b79223d2

or like this (as seen kinda in your posted picture
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOLYKOTE-111...25936648678546

Before i went ahead and called them i wanted to do a little research on it ect.. It seems theres many different types:

I came along this website--http://www.ellsworth.com/molykote.html?gclid=CMj0uPChtK0CFUgRNAodP2UYnA

As a result i see this:

Dow Corning® 3452 Chemical Resistant Valve Lubricant
Dow Corning® 3452 Chemical Resistant Bearing Grease is chemically resistant; has a good load carrying ability, effective in high temperatures and is compatible with most gaskets, seals and packings. 57 gram tube.

Dow Corning® 55 O-Ring Lubricant
Dow Corning® 55 O-Ring Lubricant is a soft silicone-based grease, slightly swells rubber for better sealing, oxidation resistant and serviceable over a wide temperature range. 150 gram tube.

I do not see numbers "111" on any product they sell so my assumption is the above products i have pasted from the link are not at all what were looking for. I have tried to find a place that stocks Molykote here in the US but so far im not coming across anything. I may just have to call.

[RICE RACING]

^ Yep either one of those on E-Bay is it, just different packaging for their markets (same product).

The others you quoted I have in my Molykote Engineering book at work, I don't recommend you use them as I can't verify how good they are in our applications.... the V&O lube 111 is tested and works

[just startn]

I orderd the First one out of the 2 ebay links i posted & grabbed another tube of hondabond. Will recite this thread when i use the product.

[speedjunkie]

And you just use that Molykote to seal between the housings and such or you use it on the coolant rings too? Actually I may be thinking of the same thing there, it's been a while since I put an engine together LOL.

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

And you just use that Molykote to seal between the housings and such or you use it on the coolant rings too? Actually I may be thinking of the same thing there, it's been a while since I put an engine together LOL.

I use 111 on all rubbers (minus the oil control ring rubbers, before they are installed in the rotors, for before mentioned reasons).

I use it especially on the O'Ring seals for water jackets, it holds them inplace and gives them life long lubrication, I use it especially on the little O'Rings that take oil through the motor as well, but I also use 1215 (as you can see in the photos) around the housings at the legs and also at the oil passages too, I use it on the oil pick up (no gaskets), I use it to seal the front timing covers on non REW blocks which have no new metal gasket, in some cases I just eliminate the front gasket all together.

The main BIG use for the 111 is to retain coolant O'Rings, these are always a pain to keep in before I discoverd this stuff you can either put it in the goorve if you are skilled like in the photos or you can simply jizz up the O'Ring prior to fitting it in the grooves.

Both products are great! Anyone using them properly I am sure will agree with me

General tips on using them or any sealant, go buy yourself some can's of Brake Cleaner and a bag of white rags and when you can spray the shit on any surface you want to seal and it when you wipe a rag on it if it is not "soiled" then its clean enough! if not clean it AGAIN! till it is CLEAN!! DO NOT drip any engine oil on surfaces you are sealing ANY AT ALL!~ IF so use brake clean and remove all oil/grease/jizz and start again. Proper procedures on all interfaces will give a life long leak free engine. On my RICESP from the engine to the oil drain to the OMP to the Sump there is not one leak of any description to be seen anywhere..... but it takes many hours of proper preparation and being anal to achieve such standards. I HATE LEAKS! so this is why I am the way I am in regards to this topic.

extra info tips,
Use teh top lid of the brake cleaner to put all the sump bolts into it and spray the **** with brake clean and shake the poofter to death, this will decontaminate all the threads and have them micky mouse! then blow with compressor, and repeat if necessary.
Also use the high pressure brake clean can to clean out all the blind holes where oil, grease, cum can hide, once all cavities are decontaminated then you are ready to mollest your engine
OMP O'ring dress with 111 lightly, but then on the outer edge (carefull to not spread 111 on other surfaces!) apply 1215, and you will never had any leaks from this join to the block@! also all METAL gaskets on the turbo's make sure are degreased and oil free and coat these cunts with 1215, and you will never have any leaks on the turbo returns again......... You get the idea by now I think.
FINAL TIP, be very careful at the end, when you have assembled your block make sure when you turn the engin upside down(assuming you have a proper engine stand) to clean ALL the surfaces on the sump join from any assembly JIZZ that has leaked down and there will be a bit depending on how excited you get. I cant type enough about having a dry grease, oil, semen free surface when you are trying to get a proper seal, the more anal you are the better the result and you will be happy