Go Back   Rotary Car Club > Tech Discussion > RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92)

RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-21-2010, 08:21 AM   #1
My5ABaby
Sigh.....
 
My5ABaby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 2,377
Rep Power: 20
My5ABaby will become famous soon enough
Your fuel pump won't have power unless that car is running or you jumper a connector in the engine bay.

Quote:
To run the pump, you will need to jump the diagnostic connector at the passenger front shock tower. It's a yellow plug with two connections and you can jump it with as small jumper lead or even a paper clip.
Do that, you'll hear it running if it is. I still vote check the compression.
__________________
1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles

Community Service Manual

RotorWiki

"Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel

Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."
My5ABaby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 08:33 PM   #2
atsronnyats
The Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: THE ATL
Posts: 17
Rep Power: 0
atsronnyats is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by My5ABaby View Post
Your fuel pump won't have power unless that car is running or you jumper a connector in the engine bay.
using this procedure was able to get the voltage no problem there....
pulled pump replaced works well.... turns out i still had the original one i pulled the screen looked good
atsronnyats is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 09:54 PM   #3
My5ABaby
Sigh.....
 
My5ABaby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 2,377
Rep Power: 20
My5ABaby will become famous soon enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by atsronnyats View Post
using this procedure was able to get the voltage no problem there....
pulled pump replaced works well.... turns out i still had the original one i pulled the screen looked good
Btw, it may help to make your sentences a bit more coherent.

If I'm understanding correctly you're saying your car still had the original pump and the in tank filter looks good.

It's normal to still have the original pump. They're pretty reliable. The in tank filter could look good and still be clogged. I still say check the compression...
__________________
1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles

Community Service Manual

RotorWiki

"Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel

Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."
My5ABaby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2010, 01:23 AM   #4
atsronnyats
The Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: THE ATL
Posts: 17
Rep Power: 0
atsronnyats is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by My5ABaby View Post
Btw, it may help to make your sentences a bit more coherent.

If I'm understanding correctly you're saying your car still had the original pump and the in tank filter looks good.

It's normal to still have the original pump. They're pretty reliable. The in tank filter could look good and still be clogged. I still say check the compression...
nah sir...

I'm saying that I replayed the second pump with the original one. When I had the problem the first time I purchased and installed an aftermarket pump. It became defective and I have now reinstalled the original pump and its working.

btw checked compression checked out. I now own a compression tester. lol
atsronnyats is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2010, 09:43 PM   #5
atsronnyats
The Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: THE ATL
Posts: 17
Rep Power: 0
atsronnyats is on a distinguished road
1. Alright guys, got the car running better by setting the timing as per procedure from FSM.

2. I also adjusted the TPS sensor using multimeter and this also helped alot.

3.. I wanted to go threw threw with the idle speed mixture setting procedure but i have two questions/comments
a. i have no response from variable resistor what so ever (when adjusting) and would like to know if you all had any ideas about the reason for that. Just so you all know i did take it off and verified the resistance across both circuits and it checks out.
b. My second question also pertains the FSM procedure. The first step in the procedure is to attach a jumper wire to the "initial coupler set." My question is where is it. upon searching the issue some people post its next to the coolant reservoir. According to the FSM photo this would seam correct but the photo also shows the battery inches away. I haven't seen and fc3s with a coolant reservoir in this position and there is no coupler to speak of in this suggested position (next to accumulator/drier). having said that, I have to assume the "initial coupler set" is the green plug next the dianostic plug and the leading coils. thanks for clearing this up in advance
atsronnyats is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Hosted by www.GotPlacement.com