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Old 10-03-2008, 09:37 PM   #1
Tinman
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EVO brake conversion, front and rear.

The front EVO brake conversion is being done and documented by a few FC folks. Here I will cover both the front and rear conversion I am doing to one of my FCs.

Feel free to ask questions or offer criticism based on your own experiences.

We'll start with some pics and brief descriptions.


Rotor comparison, stock on the left, EVO on the right. Front on the top, rear on the bottom.


Rear on the left, front on the right.


Calipers, EVO front and rear and factory 4 piston


Front EVO caliper and rotor mounted on FC spindle. The rotor has been turned down roughly 1/8" in diameter to just under 12 1/2" and the center bore has been enlarged to fit the FC hub. The calipers require swapping the bleeder screws and transfer tube from end to end. This is due to the EVO caliper's staggered piston diameters and their orientation on the EVO. They are mounted on the front side of the axle from Mitsubishi and get pushed to the back on the FC. The first thought is to just swap them from side to side in order to keep the bleeders on top, but because this places to pistons in the wrong order under rotation they must be keep on their correct sides. So the bleeders must be switched to the top and the transfer tube to the bottom.


Modified front knuckles.


Close up of mounting ears. The threads are drilled out with a 12mm bit so the bolt now passes through the knuckle and threads into the caliper. The mounting surface has been milled down .035" to properly center the caliper over the rotor.


Rear rotor on FC hub. Because the EVO rotor's center bore is larger than the FC's I machined a spacer to take up the space, very similar to a hub centric spacer for aftermarket wheels. It was rough cut from a piece of 6061 1/4" thick aluminum plate with some hole saws and then finished on a lathe.


The only machining required on the rear rotors is on the parking brake drum area. It protrudes from the hub a bit to far and interferes with the knuckle.



Rear knuckles. Here is where many people will shy away from this project. The original caliper mounting ears are cut off and a new bracket cut from 1/2" thick 6061 aluminum is welded to the knuckle. The bracket rests very well on a flat surface on the backside of the knuckle and will require less than .040" of shim to locate the caliper correctly over the rotor. The two allen head bolts are only to hold the bracket in place during the welding, I just left them in place afterwards.
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