FD3S Fuel Voltage Low, Resistor

[TitaniumTT]

10ga is too much unless you're running it from the battery. 10ga is good for about 40A, A bosch draws ~13A, a Denso takes about 16A iirc. Mind you, running it from the battery and more importantly BACK to the battery is the best way to go about it.

Originally Posted by Sharingan 19

I just did this on my FC, WOW what a difference. I used to get 8v cruising, and sometimes it would drop to 7v in boost, with a max of 10v.

I chose to keep the voltage regulator and relocate it to the rear near the pump running new wires directly from the battery to a new relay, to the regulator to the pump. I did this because I am still on the stock turbo so its not that crucial to have 12v all the time. This is also my daily so having some fuel economy would be nice as well.

If you've got a standalone and can tune it, or don't mind running a little rich under cruise, ditch the voltage reg and wire it strait. One less thing to fail.

Originally Posted by Sharingan 19

Now I see 10v cruising and 13.5 wot!!!

To answer one of the original questions; I believe David Haynes (20b fd) has burnt up a pump running 12v constant, and it didn't even take that long. He was running dual pumps though, ,so I'm not sure if the additional amps played a significant role.

You're thinking about it backwards. The more voltage you give the pump, the less A's it needs at the same pressure. So, you won't burn the thing up running it constantly. My pumpS see running voltage minus about .2V and I've run them for 21 hours pretty much strait. If he burned out a pump while running dual intanks, my first guess would be insuffiecent wiring, both in size and voltage. The smaller wiring will create resistance, the two pumps pulling more A's than it should causing heat. Heat causes more resistance, and it just becomes a downward spiral untli the V goes too low, the A's go to high, and then they burn up