|
RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
Welcome to Rotary Car Club. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
04-24-2009, 07:25 PM | #1 |
Rotorhead
|
How to ground you N/A FC ver. 1
Hey folks I am thinking of making a sticky Faq here for everyone who has added grounds and or cleaned them.. let me know what you know about grounds... I will be collecting info from other sites and posting the write-ups, and links to the orginal link.
So post away what you know about ground and the benefits you have..
__________________
Currently running: 90 GTUs converted to S5 TurboII. Track car. 90 N/A GTUs.. Running project car 89 N/A GTUs in Black #2 10/6/18 Blown coolant seal undergoing rebuild and restomod. |
04-25-2009, 04:36 PM | #2 |
Sigh.....
|
I'm a believer of just cleaning the factory grounds. The ones on my car have worked for the past 23 years so I kind of doubt I would need to add more. The only time I suggest adding a ground is for the 3800 rpm hesitation. However, that only applies to '86 and, I think, up to '87.5 cars.
__________________
1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
04-25-2009, 05:08 PM | #3 |
Start a Revolution
|
I ran 2 wires from B- to the tab on the firewall that runs to the top of the engine for the pcm ground. I still have the slight 3800 hesitation that I've always had.
__________________
That to secure these rights, Governments are instituted among Men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed, — That whenever any Form of Government becomes destructive of these ends, it is the Right of the People to alter or to abolish it, and to institute new Government -The United Stated Declaration of Independence |
04-25-2009, 06:10 PM | #4 | ||
Rotary Fanatic
|
there is a tech article i wrote in general info that has all to do with grounds. i quick smear of di-electric grease on ground points will ensure they dont corrode
__________________
Quote:
Quote:
|
||
04-25-2009, 09:17 PM | #5 |
Sigh.....
|
The 3800 hesitation is due to a specific ground, namely the one coming off the pressure sensor (in the engine bay). You can either reground right next to the ECU, or do what I did and splice in a new ground to that wire in the engine bay.
__________________
1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
04-30-2009, 12:19 PM | #6 |
Reliable Source
|
I just wire wheeled all the factory grounds and ran a semi thick gauge wire between all of them that loops from engine group to ECU ground. no hesitation here!
I also did re ground the map sensor too. |
04-30-2009, 03:55 PM | #7 |
Blue Blur
|
Which wire on the pressure sensor is the ground? Is it the black one with the white stripe? Im assuming it is being as black is usually ground but i dont want to go ground the wrong wire lol.
EDIT: Found a diagram, no more hesitaion YAY!! Last edited by Rx-7fetish; 04-30-2009 at 05:52 PM.. |
04-30-2009, 06:36 PM | #8 |
Pirate
|
I would like to chime in: I cleaned my grounds, however the wire inside the insulation and the insualtion itself were in such terrible shape, I had to unwrap the engine wiring harness, cut out a large section of the ground wire (including both on-engine ground terminals) and solder in new wire and B-Crimp (OEM style crimping method) ground terminals. This is an exteme case however.
__________________
Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! |
04-30-2009, 07:19 PM | #10 |
Clean S4 Nutswinger
|
Kind of a stupid question (I'm an electrical noob lol), but for the pressure sensor reground, do you basically just cut the wire, and solder the ends back together with a 3rd wire added to the joint, and ground that 3rd wire?
Like this?
__________________
-Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress. |
05-01-2009, 09:43 AM | #11 |
Sigh.....
|
Yeah. I would also suggest cleaning the factory ground point as well.
__________________
1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
05-04-2009, 06:26 PM | #12 |
rotard
|
i did the hks circle earth system, gold plate to negative battery with 6 wires coming off to engine, one to each of the housings and one to each of the irons
and one to the main harness ground. i have no hesitation at any point, and no more bogging from starts. this is in my 90 GTUs
__________________
pissed off?being that close to a rotary, id say youd be pist-on |
05-06-2009, 07:00 AM | #13 | ||
Test Whore - Admin
|
Quote:
Quote:
The housings are key for good spark so I would definately ground those, as well the ECU points, housings, waterpump housing, TPS, pressure sensor, and maybe the MAF. Everything should be common and leading to a GOOD chassis ground or to the battery. When I did mine I started with an 8 gauge grounded by the ECU that spiderwebbed out with CRIMPS (NOT solder) to hit all the key points.
__________________
-The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. -Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED- |
||