Metallic Clunking When braking... - Page 2

firzen · 12-09-2008, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Yea check the screws on your brake rotors. I had one that came loose and it caused some strange clunking noises. I was suprised since I would have thought the lug nuts would have held it tight.

I never put the screws back on when I did my brakes- they are more of a source of trouble IMO than anything. If anybody has experience to the contrary, feel free to let me know.

I've heard stories from people that didn't torque their lug nuts and suffered the consequences. IMO it is a simple thing to remedy and not a bad habit to check the torque on them every so often.

JL1RX7 · 12-10-2008, 01:32 PM

Frizen, I thought the same thing. Torque the wheels and the should be held tight. But I have the screws in ther and it started to back out and the rotor would make that noise like it was loose. Checked and re-checked the torque on the lug nuts. Only went away when i tighted up those screws. Noise went away and well that was all I did.

Rotary13B1 · 12-11-2008, 05:05 PM

Torque those nuts to 90lbs.

Note: The noise was not present when I tried to replicate it today, turned the car on, no noise when the car/brakes are cold... Bro in law, suggested we take a closer look at the wheel bearings/hub assembly.

On that note, anyone have a spare 5 lug hub assembly lying around?

Fidelity101 · 12-11-2008, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firzen

I never put the screws back on when I did my brakes- they are more of a source of trouble IMO than anything. If anybody has experience to the contrary, feel free to let me know.

I've heard stories from people that didn't torque their lug nuts and suffered the consequences. IMO it is a simple thing to remedy and not a bad habit to check the torque on them every so often.

they are impossible to get off unless you have a impact hammer or whatever its called.

JL1RX7 · 12-11-2008, 10:59 PM

Yea, had to use that to get mine out, put anti-seize to try to keep them from doing that again, but with all the heat that goes throught there it will be a matter of time before you need that impact screwdriver to back tham out.

mfisher12 · 12-12-2008, 11:20 AM

try using some PBC grease or anti-seiz to lube the caliper slides and the back and ends of the pads....ive had that take care of the same noise before...also make sure that the springs aren't binding

farberio · 12-14-2008, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Yea, had to use that to get mine out, put anti-seize to try to keep them from doing that again, but with all the heat that goes throught there it will be a matter of time before you need that impact screwdriver to back tham out.

I used allen head screws so I wall have more leverage when I do mine again.

farberio · 12-14-2008, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mfisher12

try using some PBC grease or anti-seiz to lube the caliper slides and the back and ends of the pads....ive had that take care of the same noise before...also make sure that the springs aren't binding

I probably would not use Anti-seize when there is specific brake pad stuff out there for super cheap. Besides...if any of that anti seize gets on your brakes or rotors your royally pwned.

NoDOHC · 12-15-2008, 08:54 PM

I use the Allen head screws from fastenal myself. (I do have access to an impact screwdriver, but it only rings the bolts off in the hub and you have to clock the rotor differently next time.)

I found my clunk problem by jacking the car up and dropping it while watching the suspension (mine also clunked when going over bumps at low speeds).

If you could have somone walk beside you with a flashlight and watch if anything moved as you moved slowly and then braked it could help you a lot.

(The front calipers have no slides that I am aware of, so I doubt it is that).

Fidelity101 · 12-16-2008, 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

I use the Allen head screws from fastenal myself. (I do have access to an impact screwdriver, but it only rings the bolts off in the hub and you have to clock the rotor differently next time.).

I got mine from sears for about 10 or 20 dollars with a couple different bit attachments.

I used to hate allen head and torx bits but I own an audi right now and the VW Germans love to use them so I picked up some torx and allen 3/8"s drive socket sets for them, got one new for a decent amount and the the other at a garage sale for 3 dollars!

Rotary13B1 · 12-20-2008, 11:33 PM

I now have an extra set of front hubs to swap out. Thanks to Hector who was parting out a TII! Just need some new bearings from Mazdatrix next week and we'll see if I get rid of this noise.

Boostmaniac · 01-02-2009, 01:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fidelity101

sounds like an endlink or sway bar bushing, check to see if you can giggle it, its the sway bar has play around the bushing it will move and clunk when braking since the inertia "pushes" it forward towards the metal bushing holder thingy.

+1

12-11-2008, 05:05 PM	#18
Rotary13B1 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: SoCal Posts: 242 Rep Power: 18	Torque those nuts to 90lbs. Note: The noise was not present when I tried to replicate it today, turned the car on, no noise when the car/brakes are cold... Bro in law, suggested we take a closer look at the wheel bearings/hub assembly. On that note, anyone have a spare 5 lug hub assembly lying around? __________________ RCC Vendor & Supporter!

12-15-2008, 08:54 PM	#24
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 18	I use the Allen head screws from fastenal myself. (I do have access to an impact screwdriver, but it only rings the bolts off in the hub and you have to clock the rotor differently next time.) I found my clunk problem by jacking the car up and dropping it while watching the suspension (mine also clunked when going over bumps at low speeds). If you could have somone walk beside you with a flashlight and watch if anything moved as you moved slowly and then braked it could help you a lot. (The front calipers have no slides that I am aware of, so I doubt it is that). __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

12-10-2008, 01:32 PM	#17
JL1RX7 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Front Royal, VA Posts: 487 Rep Power: 18	Frizen, I thought the same thing. Torque the wheels and the should be held tight. But I have the screws in ther and it started to back out and the rotor would make that noise like it was loose. Checked and re-checked the torque on the lug nuts. Only went away when i tighted up those screws. Noise went away and well that was all I did.

12-11-2008, 10:59 PM	#20
JL1RX7 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Front Royal, VA Posts: 487 Rep Power: 18	Yea, had to use that to get mine out, put anti-seize to try to keep them from doing that again, but with all the heat that goes throught there it will be a matter of time before you need that impact screwdriver to back tham out.

12-12-2008, 11:20 AM	#21
mfisher12 Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: SC formally form northern VA Posts: 31 Rep Power: 0	try using some PBC grease or anti-seiz to lube the caliper slides and the back and ends of the pads....ive had that take care of the same noise before...also make sure that the springs aren't binding