Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild

[vrracing]

I struggled with the idle setups on our JDM Tii.

I took the TB off to adjust the fast idle. I used a heat gun to test it. I put pictures and descriptions of what I did either on this or the other forum. The FSM is wrong.

The FSM talks about how to set the butterflies but nothing mapped to what was on the TB.

I used that big screw with the sleeve to set the idle. I used the two 12mm nuts on the throttle cable to ensure I had plenty of slack. IMO the engine should start and idle with the cable removed.

Don't forget the ISC. I grounded it straight to the negative terminal as I found that the bolt I was using under the main fuses wasn't working as a ground.

[JustJeff]

^ Yeah I remember you posting about your TB and I found the thread on the other forum about rebuilding them. I'm in the process of tearing down a spare USDM S5 turbo TB. I was actually going to work on it, but then found I was out of gas for my disposable torch.

So the fast idle is for when the engine is still warming up? Adjusting my fast idle does nothing. The sleaved idle is what I should be (and have been using to set idle).

ISC? Not familiar with that abreviation. I went through my grounds, or all of them I could think of and find. I did the grounding mod at the ECU. I cleaned up all the grounds down to clean metal. I've got the engine grounded on top of the keg to the firewall. I checked the engine harness ground that is on top of the engine keg. I have common grounds for gauges and headunit at the shifter bracket. I have another common ground at the driver kick panel. I went through my grounds for my stereo's amps. IIRC I got the one at the driver shock tower. I even got the one under the trailing coil. Right now my fan and alarm siren are grounded directly to the battery. Then I have an additional battery neg terminal to body chassis ground.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Something very curious happened. I found my battery was nearly dead, and not enough to crank the car. Jumped it and was letting the engine warm up and the battery charge. After it got up to temp I starting setting the idle. It was sitting at just a nudge above 1k. When it had previously dropped down to barely idling and bouncing just above 0. I had been driving it like that for a week or so and after the engine warmed up idle would sit around 800ish. So I turned down the idle to just over 500. About this time my efan kicks on. I toggle my manual switch to have it run longer and bring the temps down further so my fan isn't kicking on and off while I'm working. I toggle the fan off after temps get down low enough and as soon as I do my idle drops from the 500rpm to just barely idling.

When you get engine idling / running problems dependent on coolant temp, this implies the coolant temperature sensor could be the cause...
Does it check out?

Also while the engine was warming up and the battery was charging my boost gauge was at 0psi rather than vacuum. It would go up from there if I toggled the throttle. When I turned the engine off closing ceremony took the boost gauge to almost 10psi.

You talking strictly about the aftermarket boost gauge, right?
I think the aftermarket boost gauge is defective.

I restart the engine, boost gauge is reading correctly at about 15in/hg but rpms are still amazingly low.

Not possible - see above.

Can someone explain the difference between the two idle adjustment screws.

Fast Idle

Not sure the name on this one, but man the pic sure captured the pollen on it (hood as been sitting up on it)

Fast idle is tied to thermowax and turning that screw does nothing for my idle. I am JDM with JDM BAC so I have no idle adjustment there. My only way of adjusting idle is the second pic...of which I do not know the name.

In the first picture, the idle adjust screw is at the very top, middle of the pic.
I believe it's the same pic as the screw on the left in the 2nd pic?
The screw should be toward the rear of the engine, closer to the firewall.
The screw should be pointing toward to the passenger (US-spec) fender; you need to lean over the passenger fender to adjust this screw.

Don't mess with the "Fast Idle" screw, as this just adjusts the double throttle plates relative to each other - yes, it should not affect idle (that much).

This is still a stock TB, right?
No removal of the double throttle plates?


-Ted

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by RETed

When you get engine idling / running problems dependent on coolant temp, this implies the coolant temperature sensor could be the cause...
Does it check out?

It did at the ECU pin anyway.
FSM specs for 2E:
idle cold: .4-1.8v
water temp 68: approx 2.4v

Mine was
idle cold: .532v
water temp 58: 2.357v

Originally Posted by RETed

You talking strictly about the aftermarket boost gauge, right?
I think the aftermarket boost gauge is defective.

Gauge is practically brand new AEM gauge. It mostly seems dead on, but every so often it bugs out and reads over. The manual that came with it broke down the voltage it sees in relations to boost the sender sees. When it is bugged out often times turning off the engine and restarting it corrects the issue.

Originally Posted by RETed

In the first picture, the idle adjust screw is at the very top, middle of the pic.
I believe it's the same pic as the screw on the left in the 2nd pic?
The screw should be toward the rear of the engine, closer to the firewall.
The screw should be pointing toward to the passenger (US-spec) fender; you need to lean over the passenger fender to adjust this screw.

Don't mess with the "Fast Idle" screw, as this just adjusts the double throttle plates relative to each other - yes, it should not affect idle (that much).

This is still a stock TB, right?
No removal of the double throttle plates?


-Ted

It's a stock JDM TB. It has double throttle plates. I just starting rebuilding a USDM TB that I'm going to put on once it's cleaned and adjusted.

[JustJeff]

Overall I think I have wiring issues. I certainly have one for the aftermarket alarm, the boost gauge is certainly buggy.

Maybe that faulty wiring extends from accessories to actually affecting engine performance? I don't know quite yet.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Gauge is practically brand new AEM gauge. It mostly seems dead on, but every so often it bugs out and reads over. The manual that came with it broke down the voltage it sees in relations to boost the sender sees. When it is bugged out often times turning off the engine and restarting it corrects the issue.

I have a Trust / GReddy EGT gauge that basically does the same thing.
I'm too lazy to redo and trouble-shoot the whole thing, but it works most of the time.
The aftermarket gauge has it's own dedicated sensor and wiring, right?


-Ted

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Overall I think I have wiring issues. I certainly have one for the aftermarket alarm, the boost gauge is certainly buggy.

Maybe that faulty wiring extends from accessories to actually affecting engine performance? I don't know quite yet.

None of the above is tapped into the "EM" (Engine Main) electrical harness, right?


-Ted

[vrracing]

Sorry, Jeff. ISC is Initial Set Connector. I believe that is the standard term. It is the single green plug near the battery/main fuses you ground whenever setting the idle. We had it on and off so much when doing the swap I made a wire with a male spade and a ring terminal. But even though it was attached to a cleaned bolt holding the main fuses to the shock tower it wasnt delivering a good signal to the ECU.

The fast idle adjustment needs to be set so that when the engine (well the wax) is cold the green topped drum is aligned with one of the marks on the cam and when hot (the piston rises) the green topped drum is aligned with the other mark on the cam.

Good luck. It gets better!

[JustJeff]

Got the wideband wired up and calibrated. Other than pulling the downpipe and having a friend weld the bung and doing the wiring the engine hasn't been started since I last set the idle and TPS a day or two ago.

Idle was set at around 750-800rpm. TPS was at 1V and ranged nicely up to 4.75V. Full range is still off by about .2something-.3V but it ranges even with no deadspots. I verified at both the TPS harness as well as the ECU.

I finish the wideband install and start up the engine and it's back to just barely being above 0rpm. I let it warm up and no change. At idle the afr was 11.7ish. I drive the car around maybe a 1 mile loop get back and idling afr was at 10.8.

I used the simulated narrow output and tapped that in right at the ECU.

Here's a video of it after taking the drive. I was taking it up to about 3000rpm and the wideband would go to open air 22.4 and then come back down to 10.8.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtDPndOIeaQ&feature=youtu.be
I tried having it displayed directly in the thread but couldn't figure out how to do it.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

-Ted

[JustJeff]

^ hehe how did you do that??? I know I've posted vids before but couldn't figure out how it's done?

The gauge will eventually move to my A pillar but I've got a situation where the screws holding the convertible top attachment were seized on (locktite at the factory?). I tried impacting them with a hammer on screwdriver and that did nothing. After stripping them I've started drilling them out. Short story long, I need to get my A-pillar off in order to change my single gauge holder to my double and add the wideband there.

I may go play with the idle again and wideband more...though I"m a little frustrated and may step away from it for a day.

One very curious thing the wideband was doing while I was driving was sporadically going to open air. Every so often it would go to 22.4 hold a second or two and then return. My ground may not be the best (under the shifter bracket). Gonna try regrounding in a better spot.

With the idle it seems like I set it, come back and it's not where I set it anymore.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

^ hehe how did you do that??? I know I've posted vids before but couldn't figure out how it's done?

You need to grab the YouTube unique "name" for the vid and dump it between the "YOUTUBE" brackets...
You can't just cut&paste the entire URL, i.e. "http://..." - that just rewards you with a nice black square on the screen. :P

Basically, you cut&paste the random letters and numbers after the "watch=" string in the URL.
So the entire URL you pasted was: "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtDPndOIeaQ&feature=youtu.be"
All you need is this part: "LtDPndOIeaQ"
If you click <QUOTE> on my reply and stare at it, you'll figure it out.


-Ted

[JustJeff]

^I tried doing that with my post but on preview it showed a blank box, so I assumed it was a dead video

Getting back to the car. Can my full range TPS being off by .3 or so V be enough to cause my problems? The narrow range seems to be dead on. This coming week I"m going to talk to an electrical instructor about borrowing an osciloscope to test the TPS.

I'll at least pull the CEL codes today, see if they tell me anything.

[RETed]

Wish I could help you out with those questions...

Mines is an S4, and I haven't messed around with an S5 with the E-OMP to get enough info for you.
I vaguely remember the full-range TPS doesn't matter so long as it's linear...?


-Ted

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by RETed

Wish I could help you out with those questions...

Mines is an S4, and I haven't messed around with an S5 with the E-OMP to get enough info for you.
I vaguely remember the full-range TPS doesn't matter so long as it's linear...?


-Ted

Yeah, it's linear...no drops in the range on either full or narrow. I've heard an osciliscope is a better test and if it's as easy as borrowing the tool and hooking it up I'll test it that way.