No picture update. Waiting on parts and figure I've already posted plenty of pictures of it torn apart, you can go look at those if you want.
This may get lengthy, go get a drink. I know I need one.
Sharing what didn't work out as planned is probably the most useful part of showing your builds. Most people kind of gloss over the problems, understandable, but it doesn't help others to avoid pitfalls.
Well the 275s still aren't working out as planned. If you use that wide of a tire with the stock axle width you will need about a +50 offset (Mine are +42), even with the shorter GSL axles vice the SE axles. (SE axles would be even worse) This is under the assumption that you want a working suspension and setting it up rock hard is not acceptable.
Alternatively fender flares and cutting of the fenders would be necessary. The problem is where the rear fender curves inward behind the wheel centerline. As the suspension cycles the tire hits in this spot if not tucked in quite a bit. I refuse to go with flares because I'm not very bright.
I haven't given up on the 275s though. The next plan of attack, (I do believe we're on plan U or plan V by now), is to modify the Moser axles. I talked with the guys at Moser about my little problem. Good bunch of guys and very helpful. I decided to send the axles back and have the seat for the bearing machined 1/2 inch further out and shorten the axle the 1/2 inch to compensate. With the discs, I have about an inch of room to play with between the flange and the bearing retaining plate. I'm modifying the brake brackets again to pull the caliper in the 1/2 inch also.
This should pull the wheel in an extra 1/2 inch and allow me to run wheels with a reasonable offset. Wide +50 and over wheels are scarce and pricey. Hopefully it works this time. It looks like it should, but I've said that before.
Another thing that I've had to rethink is spring seats and bump stops. The springs weren't very well secured and could possibly even fall out if the back of the car launched into the air from doing something stupid. Solution was to use the stock rubber portion of the SA bump stop on the top spring seat. Also weld the steel cone portion of the bump stop (it was removed from the floorpan when I did the upper spring seats) onto the axle spring seat. They both fit perfectly inside the Mustang springs. I'll be screwing a 1" bump stop from a Toyota on top of the cone portion when I get them.
This accomplishes two things. It keeps me from being severely embarrassed by having my springs fall out and provides a bump stop that will move as I adjust the suspension.
Also had to cut the over the axle portion of the driver's exhaust pipe off and redo it
again #$%^&. I just HAD to have true duals
. I was still having interference problems with the axle when it came up to the top of axle movement. I do believe I got it this time. The bracing for the G-Force panhard bar makes pipe routing a real pain in the a** and you can't get a normal muffler shop to do the work.
The pipe on both sides has to follow the floor pan pretty closely or the axle will hit. (Not much room left in there on a 1stgen when the axle is at the top of it's travel.) This requires removal of all the extraneous Watts link mounts and other BS in the way. Also had to move the brake line junction over about 6 inches and redo the brake lines as it was too close to the exhaust as well.
Currently putting in the exhaust supports, now that I have all the little problems ironed out. I'll eventually redo the over axle portion in mandrel bent SS, but this has to do for now.
Will post pictures when I get some parts back. If I haven't been committed before then.
It should do the job in a 2300 pound car. Upgrades are easy if needed. Everybody makes go fast parts for Mustangs to satisfy us dumb rednecks. 
, so trying to drag it out a little to keep me occupied. K member has been fitted, modified, refitted, measured, torn down, etc. so many times that I'm unsure what I started with at this point. 
Linear Mode
