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Old 02-07-2013, 05:43 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjunkie View Post
Negligence is one of the things that pisses me off most in an accident. Oh, so because you had something more important going on while you're DRIVING, your dumb ass hits me and possibly ruins something that JUST got out of the garage?! JUST BECAUSE YOU DIDN'T WANT TO PAY ATTENTION?! WTF?!!!!

If you get his address, let us know. I'm not into dudes, but I like Brian's idea. And this dipshit DEFINITELY deserves it.
you see the truck...thats the first thing i saw...i was going to beat his teeth out immediately and then i saw the back of my car and it shocked me just long enough to stop myself...then i told him to stay away from me..and he did

and yes, this was not an accident, this was negligence, there was no reason for this to have happened, i had just moved away from a school crosswalk, maybe 3-4 car length and stopped again because the line from the light ahead is long and slow, and this tard drives straight into me and like 20mph, wtf was he doing 20mph for, no one moved more than 40ft...a fucking accident is a severe blowout, or unexpected hydroplane...or mechanical failure...or even an honest misjudgement of distance/speed/visibility, this dude was on the phone or texting or masturbating or something and just ruined a very beautiful thing






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Old 02-07-2013, 09:09 PM   #92
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Exactly. I hope you get everything fixed soon, and in enough time to still make it to DGRR.
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:52 PM   #93
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took it out and had a little fun with it last night, was good for my mood, despite me still being a little sore and frustrated, at least you cant see the wounds very well at night and it makes you smile, its fun as hell to drive

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPIg6DyCmzk
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:10 AM   #94
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Sounds awesome!
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:19 AM   #95
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Sooooo....it isn't broken?

DGRR???
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Old 02-10-2013, 04:39 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by djmtsu View Post
Sooooo....it isn't broken?

DGRR???
its on probabtion, the noise is still there, neither myself or my friends have been able to pin down the source...so for lack of desire to describe it in text...im going to run it till it pukes or it doesnt and then ill know.

as for DGRR, its still planned if the car behaves, although now i need to touch up paint the damages and find a new bumper which is difficult around here, finding one as perfect as mine...was...is nearly impossible, but considering the circumstances im sure the knowing eyes of the DGRR folks will know why my car isnt as clean and perfect as it should have been upon arrival to the show...

i have a BAD vibration in the driveline, im almost positive something is amiss with the driveshaft the was altered to fit the new configuration, so i have to take that back to the driveshaft shop and see whats what. anything above 60mph tried to shake the car apart, while we were out playing with the car in "mexico" i had the car up to some northern speeds and the vibration is terrible and unsafe so im taking it back apart and fixing some of the damages from the impact while im at it.

i have my 3.08 gears for it...they came in the day of the wreck...dammit...it needs those bad...as you can see...it spins a bit
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:13 PM   #97
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well i have another issue not related to the impact or engine noise..

along the way in this build i overlooked something very important...and when i say overlooked, i was aware of it, i just kept it on the back burner....well it bit me...

i have a bad trans/driveshaft/pinion alignment problem...and there isnt much i can do about it easily.

the transmission ended up a little lower in the car than it was, and possibly at a different angle(i dont have another 7 around to measure), also...im not sure my grannies 8.8 is at the right pinion angle to start with...ill verify that when i can pin down the info i need to do so....

this results in the pinion being about 4 deg north of the trans angle, and almost directly in line with it......it caused an immediate failure of the yoke Ujoint within the 140miles i put on it so i put it on stands to investigate the vibration and discovered my oversight....but an oversight i couldnt really avoid...due to space constraints

SO i needed to change the rear end gears anyway, so it needs to come out now to investigate further my problem....and time is running out for DGRR...and money ran out a long time ago...

im probably going to have to build a 2 piece driveshaft or something...i cant really move anything around in any direction...
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:26 PM   #98
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I had some similiar problems with both my FC and my Jeep.... I found that the gents @ Carolina Driveshaft really, I mean REALLY know thier shit when it comes to troubleshooting and solving oddball problems like that.... personally I would suggest calling them and they can help solve it either through a new driveshaft or axle shims or something... I had a bad vibe in my 7 when I swapped the engine and 6spd trans in, same sort of thing, because of the tailshaft housing and not wanting to massage the tunnel or cut 1/2 of it out, I ended up with the driveshaft pointed basically directly @ the diff and I had a pretty bad vibe as well.... we got it worked out though.

Also with my lifted Cherokee... $188 for a brandy new double cardon driveshaft and damn is that thing silky smooth now...

Harry or Tom is who I've been dealing with over there, Harry mostly as of late..

Good luck man, I would LOVE to see this beast @ DGRR... I'll bring a nickle
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:59 PM   #99
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trust me dude..i want to go..but it seems there are powerful forces at work trying to stop me...
first i get hit, then i get an odd and as of yet unidentified noise from the engine following being hit, and now i have a major driveline geometry problem that i didnt catch.

however it seems to me that the brunt of the issue lies in my grannies 8.8, the problem was probably there before when i put about 600 or so miles on it with the rotary shortly after DGRR2011 when i installed it, but was probably so borderline that it went largely unnoticed, it did have a previous high speed vibration, but not till around 130+, so i could have blamed it on many things never figuring the driveline would have a problem, since i ordered the rear to fit my application and parts, but NOW that i have changed things a little with this engine the problem has surfaced big time. the transmission is approximately 4 inches further back, and somewhere around 1.5in lower down. not a huge difference, but its non negotiable.

annoyingly i dont have a stock FB to measure on, BUT my trans is essentially pretty level in the car, and really it cannot move in any direction for any amount of worth while distance, but with that, the pinion gear is less then 1 inch below the tailshaft, BUT the issue is...the pinion points approx 3-4deg NORTH of parrallel, which is exactly opposite of where it needs to point...so its somewhere around 6-8deg off.
now i have but a few weeks and zero dollars to basically refabricate the rear end geometry and hope it solves it enough for my driveshaft to work, otherwise i will have to engineer and build a subframe in the middle of the car to house a carrier bearing for a 2 piece driveshaft assembly...not cheap, and not fun....

so with the damage from the impact along with it..im bout to call it a day and lick my wounds for a while
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:43 PM   #100
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Believe me man, I totally get the whole tuck the car away and lick some wounds and focus on shit that can get done in a timely fashion to actually enjoy the event.... hence the 8 going and not the FC....

As to geometry problems that have arisen, I don't know anything about the grannies 8.8 swap, is it a live axle or is it some type of IRS? If it's a live axle, what the Jeep guys have been doing for years is getting shims, basically little wedges that mount between the perce and the leaf springs to angle the pinion either up or down to get the proper angle for the pinion.... I'm wondering if that can be accomplished with the your setup.... although, now that I'm picturing the underside of an FB, which happens to be in the air behind me, that wouldn't be a very feasible option... one would need to cut off every single mounting tab and spring perch, rotate around the tube to where it needs to be and reweld everything.... that just sounds alot of fun.... in a sadistic kind of way.

I don't know if a carrier bearing and a 2-piece driveshaft would be the cheapest option either, the most fun for sure..., I'm thinking a double cardon driveshaft might solve the problem... and I can tell you I just paid $188 for mine for my Jeep.... and yeah.... 6-8* is way too much, they usually want to see 2-4*

I dunno.... any good pics of the grannies 8.8 you could point me too?
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2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
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I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:47 PM   #101
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well the coil spring and 4link set up in the FB will require me to cut and reweld the bracketry and spring buckets to solve the problem, i have a local driveline guru coming to the house this weekend to put a second set of eyes on it, no matter how much i know and do i always respect an experienced opinion as im no expert, i learn by trial and error like everyone else

but i will still try for DGRR, though im not going to reserve my room if you know what i mean, hopefully they will send me my shirts in the mail if i dont make it hehehe

not sure i will have the paint fixed either...we shall see....
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:25 PM   #102
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a carefull look that i obviously failed to give it when i installed it will reveal the problem as i am seeing it, the car/trans are near as makes no difference level, and the rear is jacked up to all but ride height minus maybe 3/4" that the springs would let me get without lifting the car, this is an unaltered as ordered, bolt in grannies 8.8 rear end, and as i am seeing it, and the digi protractor i borrowed yesterday told me, the pinion is like 4 degrees UP instead of 1-3 degrees DOWN, it is as far as i can tell, totally wrong. and lowering the transmission for the 1uz install exacerbated the problem to the point it was noticed immediately
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:08 AM   #103
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Their rear ends are probably setup to be used with their mounts. Which does you no good since you're a nonconformist.

Used to run into this a lot with lifted 4WD trucks when the u-joint angles got too severe the engine/trans mounts and pinion angles had to be changed. Your u-joint angles can't possibly fall into this category though. The centerline from the eshaft to the back of the transmission output shaft has to be in the same plane as the pinion shaft. Is moving the front of the engine up or the back of the transmission down at all feasible?

A good guideline http://www.iedls.com/asp/admin/getFi...&TID=28&FN=PDF

Hope this helps, I really need to see this at Deals Gap.
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:59 PM   #104
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I'm sure its fixable in the long run but would it help any if you either extended the lower links a little or shortened the upper links to rotate the axle? I know you cant go far without modifying the spring perch,sway bar mounts, body/wheel contact but it may be an option.

is your trans and rear parallel to each other left to right? or a slight offset to allow the u-joints to rotate? I asked about my car since the drivetrain is slightly offset left to right and was told about vibrations from u-joints if I remember correctly( go look at it Brian. look at the motor mount to x-member)
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:27 PM   #105
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[QUOTE=GySgtFrank;232964]Their rear ends are probably setup to be used with their mounts. Which does you no good since you're a nonconformist.

im pretty sure that the pinion angle is just outright wrong, sotck driveline or not, there is no way it needs to point 4 degrees north in this chassis for any reason, conformist or not i think it was borderline functional before and now it is intolerant

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I'm sure its fixable in the long run but would it help any if you either extended the lower links a little or shortened the upper links to rotate the axle? I know you cant go far without modifying the spring perch,sway bar mounts, body/wheel contact but it may be an option.

is your trans and rear parallel to each other left to right? or a slight offset to allow the u-joints to rotate? I asked about my car since the drivetrain is slightly offset left to right and was told about vibrations from u-joints if I remember correctly( go look at it Brian. look at the motor mount to x-member)
im working on that plan tonight once my help arrives to wrestle everything around, and yes, the control arms are an option, although the uppers are quite difficult to shorten, since that will also change location centers on them due to being angled, i can fudge a small amount and let the bushing take the flex, but not a lot, and the lowers can only rotate so far for stated reasons, but i can cut stuff off and move it just as easy, its just aggravating to have to do so. i will be obtaining the hard data on what is there and what needs to be there tonight, but if anyone has the STOCK information and reference points to determine factor pinion angle i would be more appreciative, i might be able to find it via google but i dont have to time to spend hours forum fishing

stay tuned for the next adventure of frankenseven the unlucky...
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