It looked so simple at first!

[GySgtFrank]

OK, been a while on updates as there wasn't a whole lot to report. Made the Ozarks run, only problem was a blown front tire. Have a little over 4000 miles on it with no significant problems. About done working the extra job for the year, bought axles, rear end and assorted parts to do the five lug/LSD swap with the the big bearing rear end and rear suspension revisions, as well as desperately needed bigger brakes. More updates and pics soon I hope.

[GySgtFrank]

SE diff by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Picked up an 85 GSL SE rear diff. Had a little problem with the first diff I picked up. It was out of an 85 gsl. It would have worked fine, but found that someone had swapped an 83 gsl rear into it at sometime so the rear did not have the big bearings. Took it back to Kyle at Rotary Doctor in Neosho, Mo. and he gave me the GSL SE rear in it's place. Good guy, this one had us both scratching our heads for a while, shit happens. Trial fitting bigger rear discs while I'm waiting on parts to arrive. Want to swap brakes over from the 95 SVT Cobra suspension I have. Rear 11.5" discs won't be too bad, although they look to be only marginally better then the FC rears (Cobra on left, FC on right), but the front 13" discs will take a little thinking on. We'll see.

[GySgtFrank]

Modifying Spring mounts to accept the Mustang springs. I know, I'm insane.


axle1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


axle2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


axle&spring by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

The beauty of the Mustang springs is that they come in the spring rates I was shooting for anyway. Oh! and I already have them, broke MoFos unite!

[GySgtFrank]

For those still interested and in keeping with my penchant for doing things the hard way. (Don't try this at home kids, I'm a Prof-*er*-masochist). Getting the spring buckets and adjusters in car. Had to raise the spring mounting point ala FC & FD. Final placement on the spring perch is about 4 inches higher than original. Need to be able to lower it without going to ridiculously stiff springs. Used adjusters so I can alter ride height and weight jack for suspension tuning. Guess what? 5" diameter springs don't quite fit between the frame rail and wheel opening, such a surprise . Now know why Mazda used those oddball diameter springs. Had to notch the frame rails as I didn't want to take up any valuable tire space in the wheel wells.


Spring opening by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


spring opening 4 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


spring opening 2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


spring perch w_adjuster by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


spring on perch - new by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Just have to get it closed up and the final welds done, then onto the other side. Back to work...

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

I've got just under 4000 dollars into the total project so far (including purchasing the car). It's more than the car's really worth, but you can spend a lot more trying to keep yourself amused. I'm learning a lot in the process and just having fun. It'll be even more fun when I can get to some of the events and meet some of you in person. Thanks for all the help guys.

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Thanks beefhole. It's one of those projects that kind of got away from me. I was going to only put in the 13B and run a carburetor, but I had all the EFI stuff and figured Why Not?

A project that got otu of hand? Say it isn't so!!!!! That NEVER happens....

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

At that point I can start playing with the engine. I want to avoid any more long downtimes on this project if I can, the car's just too much fun to drive to let it sit again.

Don't you guys have winters? That's when I try to keep all my playing to..... wintertime when I can't/don't want to drive the cars anyway.... Gotta finish my Jeeps and get the 8 off the rd in the next week or so

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

I found the brake problem. The rear wheel cylinders were shot, that'll happen when the car sits 10-20 years. Tried to make a run to Kansas City to deliver some parts and make a meet the KC guys were having. Burned up a relay about 100 miles out, bypassed it and it was fine. Again, my overly complicated wiring scheme bites me in the a@@. Then about 150 miles out the car starts to sputter and died on the side of the interstate. Do a bunch of checks, no fuel to the filter. I assume the fuel pump went as the fuel gauge was above empty and called some local friends to come help. Put gas in it and it fired right up. I evidently bumped the needle putting in the panel and didn't notice it. Needless to say I didn't make KC in time for the meet. Oh well, this is why I was making the run in the first place. Need to make sure all the problems are worked out before I get too far away.

Shakedowns! Gotta love 'em.... the wierdest shit pops up on them...

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

but the front 13" discs will take a little thinking on. We'll see.

Yeah.... it's know as 17" rims

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

For those still interested and in keeping with my penchant for doing things the hard way. (Don't try this at home kids, I'm a Prof-*er*-masochist). Getting the spring buckets and adjusters in car. Had to raise the spring mounting point ala FC & FD. Final placement on the spring perch is about 4 inches higher than original. Need to be able to lower it without going to ridiculously stiff springs. Used adjusters so I can alter ride height and weight jack for suspension tuning. Guess what? 5" diameter springs don't quite fit between the frame rail and wheel opening, such a surprise . Now know why Mazda used those oddball diameter springs. Had to notch the frame rails as I didn't want to take up any valuable tire space in the wheel wells.


Spring opening by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


spring opening 4 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


spring opening 2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


spring perch w_adjuster by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


spring on perch - new by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Just have to get it closed up and the final welds done, then onto the other side. Back to work...

That's really fucking cool and impressive at the same time.... I approve of that way of doing things

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

A project that got otu of hand? Say it isn't so!!!!! That NEVER happens....

Always it seems.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Don't you guys have winters? That's when I try to keep all my playing to..... wintertime when I can't/don't want to drive the cars anyway.... Gotta finish my Jeeps and get the 8 off the rd in the next week or so

We have winters here, but the snow seldom sticks around for very long. Get more time on the road with the 7 than I would up north. It is cold as SH** out in the shop trying to get work done though.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Yeah.... it's know as 17" rims

Yeah, I know, but it's hard to find a short enough tire in 17" to allow suspension articulation up front that is still wide enough to do any good. I'll find a work around though.

I'll probably end up with 215/40's, have to see when I get the suspension fitted.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

That's really fucking cool and impressive at the same time.... I approve of that way of doing things

Thanks Brian. Quite a bit more to go on rear suspension, different lowers, 3 link, fit and plumb brakes etc. Will be ready for DGRR if I have to weld the axle to the frame though.

addendum: Hopefully I'll have a chance of keeping your FC from hell within sight on the dragon, since my lack of power is not as much of a handicap there.

[GySgtFrank]

After looking at Phil's thread this is almost shameful, but it's what I've got.

Well life's been throwing me a few curves lately, but still making progress. I got my set of wheels I plan on using and did a trial fit.


SSRwheels by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Rears are 275/40R17, yes I'm going with 17s. Not enough room in the wheel wells (width) and my measurement was a little off for lowering. Again, such a surprise. Have to extend the rear buckets upward another 2-3 inches and un-spotweld my wheel wells moving them in about 1.5 - 2 inches. Such fun. Luckily I waited on final welding until the trial fit, so not as big of a problem as it could have been. Rear brake adapter plates made and fitted, good clearance all around with the SSRs. Also changing over to a 3 link setup in the rear to eliminate those pesky upper control arms, snap oversteer is such a drag, and free up the room for MOAR TIRE. Will update when I get the rear suspension buttoned up.

[WE3RX7]

275s on 17s with an NA 13B?

So we're going to have 2gslse's FB at DGRR fail to get out of the parking lot due to the inability of 205s to control his monster causing blinding tire smoke and then you... you sir are going to stall as the level of friction from those meats far exceed the torque produced on that NA 13B


Ok, all jokiing aside, looks good. Should be a pretty sweet year to be an SA/FB fan at DGRR if all these cars make it. Only 3 months left, get cracking!

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

275s on 17s with an NA 13B?

So we're going to have 2gslse's FB at DGRR fail to get out of the parking lot due to the inability of 205s to control his monster causing blinding tire smoke and then you... you sir are going to stall as the level of friction from those meats far exceed the torque produced on that NA 13B


Ok, all jokiing aside, looks good. Should be a pretty sweet year to be an SA/FB fan at DGRR if all these cars make it. Only 3 months left, get cracking!

Well it looks like the only way to keep up with Brian is to outbrake him, so we need more tire and brake. The chassis was only designed for 100hp so it has a few shortcomings to be addressed before I pull a 2gslse.

[GySgtFrank]

A little more work done. As usual things are getting more complicated than I at first envisioned. Fitted the tires and wasn't happy with the inside clearance. Tried spacers, but I wanted the tires tucked in more, sooo, mini-tub time.

I got the third link in so I could do away with the upper control arms.


third link1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


third link2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Had to cut my fancy dancy spring buckets (they needed to be higher anyway, measurements never come out right). Removed the wheel well.


open wheelwell by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Got the inner rear wheel well plate fabbed and fitted, should give me plenty of clearance for off camber articulation.


Inside clearance by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

The limiting factor now is going to be the spring, but for now I have plenty of space there. Also going to have to move the shock mounting point. No big deal, now where have I heard that before? Wheels look good on there though.


outside clearance1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr


wheel2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

The things I won't get myself into.

[2gslse]

Damn that looks good I wish I knew how and had the place to do that. I will just have to deal with wheelspin city for now.

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by 2gslse

Damn that looks good I wish I knew how and had the place to do that. I will just have to deal with wheelspin city for now.

I don't think I'll have to worry about wheelspin with my NA 13B. Wish I had the power that monster of yours puts out. someday...

[85turbo12a]

that is a nice project you have there....i so needed to mini-tub mine before i went as far as i did....that is going to look amazing when done with those fats stuffed under it like that....well done(doing) sir

[GySgtFrank]

Thanks 85turbo12a. It's nowhere near the quality of yours or 2gslse's build, but it's been fun. The rear suspension was supposed to be the easy part, but whadda I know? What else am I going to do anyway?

I could have probably gotten away with either a slightly narrower tire or used the spacers, but I'm not sane and wanted FD size tires on the SA, but they have to fit under the sheetmetal. The rear suspension needed revising anyway.

It's the same rear setup as the Fox body Mustang I'd run before, except that Mazda was nice enough to put in the Watts link which Ford neglected totally. The Mustangs had a very nasty tendency to snap oversteer which gets WAY too exciting at speed (angled upper control arms). I had read that the rear behaved about the same on the first gens too. Studied up on suspension design a little and sooo...

DGRR '13: Invasion of the silver 1stGens.

[85turbo12a]

yeah im not real keen on pushing the limits with mine...if you keep it at entertaining speeds its pretty stable, but i have no idea what it would do if pushed hard and i really dont want to hurt it...and now with the substantial addition of torque ill have to be nice to it

yes having that big meats on there is going to be neat, gonna look sick from the back, also kudos for keeping it under the skin, sometimes the extra work is worth the result.

my car is using the "modified" watts link with the 8.8, basically all stock, with energy bushings and a .75" rear swaybar that i suspect might be a bit much...but we shall see, at some point i foresee a total re-design of the rear workings....i would like to get the car low(er) to the ground again.

it seems like us DIY guys can never have the perfect car...we have to give up one major mod to do another...always leaving a weak link due to funds, abilities or time...