Aftermarket Springs and AAS?

infernosg · 01-23-2010, 09:34 PM

So I've pretty much come to the realization that my '89 GXL will never really amount to too much more than a suped-up daily driver while I hold out for a S5 TII or FD...

That being said, how does the AAS system hold up to aftermarket springs? Because it's a daily driver I'd like to keep the system intact and as far as I know there are no aftermarket struts compatable with it. My experience with past vehicles is that stock struts do not like drops and will typically blow out within a year on drops 1" and greater.

djmtsu · 01-23-2010, 09:41 PM

Actually, any aftermarket struts will work.

You need to change the struts and springs all around, and then just take out the AAS switch and miscellaneous stuff.

I have not checked to see if aftermarket springs work with the AAS struts or not. Although, there really is not reason why they would not. The AAS strut is sort of like a KYB AGX or Tokico Illumina. The only difference is the Mazda AAS uses a small motor to turn the valve from soft to firm, whereas in the aftermarket, you do it yourself manually.

Hope this helps!

infernosg · 01-23-2010, 09:51 PM

Thanks for the input, but yeah, that's actually what I meant. I'd like to keep the AAS system in place as it stands now. I have no problem removing everything if it comes down to that; I just don't want two useless buttons on the center console so I'd have to go out and find a replacement with the coin holders, right?

Random question, are any aftermarket springs larger in diameter than stock? I ask because with my current wheel/tire combo I'm about 1/8" from the front spring/perch and tire. What are the good spring manufacturers for the RX-7 anyway? Tein still a good choice?

djmtsu · 01-23-2010, 10:27 PM

Tein can be stiff on the FC. One of the versions (don't remember) has a larger diameter spring for the fronts than the factory springs. So you would get potential rubbing.

Why not get Ground Control?

infernosg · 01-23-2010, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djmtsu

Tein can be stiff on the FC. One of the versions (don't remember) has a larger diameter spring for the fronts than the factory springs. So you would get potential rubbing.

Why not get Ground Control?

Definitely good info again. I've heard bad things about coil sleeves from the crowd with my last car, but are the Ground Control sleeves any good for the RX-7? Pricier, obviously, but still may be a little much for what I'm looking for though. I've also been looking at Racing Beat springs, but again, I don't know what experience people have had with them (I know of issues with their exhaust fitment).

RETed · 01-24-2010, 04:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by infernosg

Random question, are any aftermarket springs larger in diameter than stock? I ask because with my current wheel/tire combo I'm about 1/8" from the front spring/perch and tire. What are the good spring manufacturers for the RX-7 anyway? Tein still a good choice?

Are you trying to avoid these brands?
If so, then stay away from the Tanabe GF210's and the Tein S-Tech's.
Both are known to have larger diameters, thus you'll end up with LESS clearance than stock.

Other good quality aftermarket springs are Racing Beat and Eibach (if you can find these).

-Ted

infernosg · 01-24-2010, 10:15 AM

^^^ Yep, trying to avoid anything that will have a larger diameter than stock as I'm almost certain it'll rub. I had heard about the Tanabe's (from here) but didn't know the Tein's were the same way, thanks.

FWIW, I based my entire wheel/tire choice on your writeup on fc3spro.com

Ender · 01-24-2010, 10:50 AM

I have Intrax progressive rate lowering springs. I don't know how they compare in terms of quality to others (probably not as good, and I know the paint hasn't survived Iowa weather real well), but I paid like $125 total for the set. I like them. They lower the car evenly and they are stiffer than stock. At the same time I installed them though I also built sway bar end links that use spherical bearings (so there's NO give in them like there is with any rubber bushing) and I installed KYB AGX adjustable struts. I've heard people like their Tanabe springs. I had a set and even installed the front ones, but then decided to sell them so I could buy something else the car needed.

Max777 · 01-24-2010, 03:25 PM

IF you price out AGX struts, GC sleeves, and camber plates new, you get roughly $1144.00 without shipping or taxes.

Stance GR+ Coilovers go for $1200, are well designed, and have independent rideheight/spring compression adjustability, so even if you slam your car you still have full shock travel. You can get these with softer spring rates like 8K front 6K rear as well if you are worried about them being too stiff.

The stock AAS is crap, and should be gutted, the FC does not deserve such a disgrace of a suspension "system". IF you need a different center thing of W/E I got one for you.

People that don't have experience with modding often are very "Superstitious" when it comes to stuff, and worry about stipid shit like those AAS buttons, keeping the intake sleeves on a 6pt system, keeping emissions that down work, etc..... come on, it's a 20 y/o car. I bet once you get some new shocks that actually work, you will forget all about the ass.... I mean aas anyway.

infernosg · 01-24-2010, 08:13 PM

I'm definitely not inexperienced with modding cars (well, with the RX-7 I am), and like I said, I have no problem removing the system if it comes down to it - I just don't know what all is involved at this time. I also don't like useless buttons hanging around. My original idea was that because I've scaled back my plans for this car that I wouldn't dump $1000+ on the suspension. If I do decide to change the struts I'd likely go with Tokico HP's or something similar as I wouldn't need the adjustability on a daily driver. FWIW, I never knew the AAS was crap...

So you have a center console without the AAS buttons? I'm listening...

djmtsu · 01-24-2010, 08:26 PM

The stock AAS is not crap. It was good for what it was, remember this is 20+ year old technology.

FWIW my AAS still works on a 140K chassis. The motors turn the valves, and the suspension firms up. Hit the button, and it feels a little smoother over bumps.

Sorry Max, but you seem to have a hatred for what it essentially an AGX or Tokico that only has 2 positions. It isn't that crappy. The AAS on my 626 worked great too, and it was 3 position!!

Regardless, you should replace the struts and springs at the same time. No reason to take it apart twice.

All you have to do is remove the assemblies as a whole. Buy new struts mounts, and put together the new struts/springs, then bolt them back into the chassis.

Then, go get an alignment.

infernosg · 01-24-2010, 08:31 PM

^^^ Yep, leaning more towards removing it now as I'm going to have to replace the struts anyway, and the stock replacements are all $200+ new. I could go with the Tokico Illumina's and still pay less and probably have a better suspension feel.

I figured the removal/intall would be the same as with any car, but what all is involved with removing the AAS system as a whole? IE, the ECU, wiring, switches, etc?

Ender · 01-24-2010, 08:35 PM

I'm not real familiar with the AAS, but I'm pretty sure the ECU has nothing to do with it. There might be a wiring diagram in the FSM.

djmtsu · 01-24-2010, 08:37 PM

The ECU could care less if it is there or not. Just unplug the AAS motors at the top of the struts, if you want you can trace the harness back and remove all the wiring completely.

The switch just unplugs under the console and pops out. You can find consoles without the AAS and just swap out that piece.

There is no dummy light or anything that will come on when removed.

infernosg · 01-24-2010, 08:43 PM

Oops, by ECU I meant the control system for the AAS (I've heard people refer to the switches/motherboard as the ECU such as the horn ECU, wiper ECU, etc). I always thought the RX-7's systems were modular being OBDI. Either way, definitely easier to work with than my old Protege in which every mod required a resistor or something to trick the ECU.

But yeah, I'd probably just remove all the wiring and the switch just for completeness' sake.

01-23-2010, 09:34 PM	#1
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA iTrader: (5) Posts: 811 Rep Power: 15	Aftermarket Springs and AAS? So I've pretty much come to the realization that my '89 GXL will never really amount to too much more than a suped-up daily driver while I hold out for a S5 TII or FD... That being said, how does the AAS system hold up to aftermarket springs? Because it's a daily driver I'd like to keep the system intact and as far as I know there are no aftermarket struts compatable with it. My experience with past vehicles is that stock struts do not like drops and will typically blow out within a year on drops 1" and greater. __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

01-23-2010, 09:41 PM	#2
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	Actually, any aftermarket struts will work. You need to change the struts and springs all around, and then just take out the AAS switch and miscellaneous stuff. I have not checked to see if aftermarket springs work with the AAS struts or not. Although, there really is not reason why they would not. The AAS strut is sort of like a KYB AGX or Tokico Illumina. The only difference is the Mazda AAS uses a small motor to turn the valve from soft to firm, whereas in the aftermarket, you do it yourself manually. Hope this helps! __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

01-23-2010, 09:51 PM	#3
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA iTrader: (5) Posts: 811 Rep Power: 15	Thanks for the input, but yeah, that's actually what I meant. I'd like to keep the AAS system in place as it stands now. I have no problem removing everything if it comes down to that; I just don't want two useless buttons on the center console so I'd have to go out and find a replacement with the coin holders, right? Random question, are any aftermarket springs larger in diameter than stock? I ask because with my current wheel/tire combo I'm about 1/8" from the front spring/perch and tire. What are the good spring manufacturers for the RX-7 anyway? Tein still a good choice? __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

01-23-2010, 10:27 PM	#4
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	Tein can be stiff on the FC. One of the versions (don't remember) has a larger diameter spring for the fronts than the factory springs. So you would get potential rubbing. Why not get Ground Control? __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

01-24-2010, 10:15 AM	#7
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA iTrader: (5) Posts: 811 Rep Power: 15	^^^ Yep, trying to avoid anything that will have a larger diameter than stock as I'm almost certain it'll rub. I had heard about the Tanabe's (from here) but didn't know the Tein's were the same way, thanks. FWIW, I based my entire wheel/tire choice on your writeup on fc3spro.com __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

01-24-2010, 03:25 PM	#9
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	IF you price out AGX struts, GC sleeves, and camber plates new, you get roughly $1144.00 without shipping or taxes. Stance GR+ Coilovers go for $1200, are well designed, and have independent rideheight/spring compression adjustability, so even if you slam your car you still have full shock travel. You can get these with softer spring rates like 8K front 6K rear as well if you are worried about them being too stiff. The stock AAS is crap, and should be gutted, the FC does not deserve such a disgrace of a suspension "system". IF you need a different center thing of W/E I got one for you. People that don't have experience with modding often are very "Superstitious" when it comes to stuff, and worry about stipid shit like those AAS buttons, keeping the intake sleeves on a 6pt system, keeping emissions that down work, etc..... come on, it's a 20 y/o car. I bet once you get some new shocks that actually work, you will forget all about the ass.... I mean aas anyway. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! Last edited by Max777; 01-24-2010 at 03:30 PM..

01-24-2010, 08:13 PM	#10
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA iTrader: (5) Posts: 811 Rep Power: 15	I'm definitely not inexperienced with modding cars (well, with the RX-7 I am), and like I said, I have no problem removing the system if it comes down to it - I just don't know what all is involved at this time. I also don't like useless buttons hanging around. My original idea was that because I've scaled back my plans for this car that I wouldn't dump $1000+ on the suspension. If I do decide to change the struts I'd likely go with Tokico HP's or something similar as I wouldn't need the adjustability on a daily driver. FWIW, I never knew the AAS was crap... So you have a center console without the AAS buttons? I'm listening... __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

01-24-2010, 08:26 PM	#11
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	The stock AAS is not crap. It was good for what it was, remember this is 20+ year old technology. FWIW my AAS still works on a 140K chassis. The motors turn the valves, and the suspension firms up. Hit the button, and it feels a little smoother over bumps. Sorry Max, but you seem to have a hatred for what it essentially an AGX or Tokico that only has 2 positions. It isn't that crappy. The AAS on my 626 worked great too, and it was 3 position!! Regardless, you should replace the struts and springs at the same time. No reason to take it apart twice. All you have to do is remove the assemblies as a whole. Buy new struts mounts, and put together the new struts/springs, then bolt them back into the chassis. Then, go get an alignment. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

01-24-2010, 08:31 PM	#12
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA iTrader: (5) Posts: 811 Rep Power: 15	^^^ Yep, leaning more towards removing it now as I'm going to have to replace the struts anyway, and the stock replacements are all $200+ new. I could go with the Tokico Illumina's and still pay less and probably have a better suspension feel. I figured the removal/intall would be the same as with any car, but what all is involved with removing the AAS system as a whole? IE, the ECU, wiring, switches, etc? __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

01-24-2010, 08:37 PM	#14
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	The ECU could care less if it is there or not. Just unplug the AAS motors at the top of the struts, if you want you can trace the harness back and remove all the wiring completely. The switch just unplugs under the console and pops out. You can find consoles without the AAS and just swap out that piece. There is no dummy light or anything that will come on when removed. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

01-24-2010, 08:43 PM	#15
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA iTrader: (5) Posts: 811 Rep Power: 15	Oops, by ECU I meant the control system for the AAS (I've heard people refer to the switches/motherboard as the ECU such as the horn ECU, wiper ECU, etc). I always thought the RX-7's systems were modular being OBDI. Either way, definitely easier to work with than my old Protege in which every mod required a resistor or something to trick the ECU. But yeah, I'd probably just remove all the wiring and the switch just for completeness' sake. __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

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