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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.


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Old 07-10-2009, 12:10 AM   #1
FCTII
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Default eliminating omp

so a friend told me how you can eliminate the omp and there is a thing you can buy that works the same but doesnt use the oil from the engine its in a seperate box. has anyone heard of this?






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Old 07-10-2009, 12:40 AM   #2
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yes, you can block off the S4 mechanical OMP. The S5 is electrical and will go into limp mode if you disable it. AND YOU MUST PREMIX.

You have a few options:

If you have an S4 then buy the block-off plates and premix.

If you have an S5 then you can get an Rtek and it will remove the OMP codes and can be blocked off.

YOU HAVE TO PREMIX IF YOU REMOVE THE OMP!!!! IF YOU DON'T THEN YOUR MOTOR WILL BE DAMAGED...

THat stuff you asked about is 2-stroke oil, the so-called "premix" I keep talking about....You put ~16oz. per tank IN THE GAS TANK at EVERY FILL UP.

Why do you want to remove the OMP?


Others will chime in with other suggestions.
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Old 07-10-2009, 01:11 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCTII View Post
there is a thing you can buy that works the same but doesnt use the oil from the engine its in a seperate box. has anyone heard of this?
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm
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Old 07-10-2009, 06:06 AM   #4
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Have it

Use it

Love it

was actually over oiling my last engine and I was adding a 1/4oz/gal in the gas as well.

First engine I used it on actually started stripping the carbon off of the rotors.

I still like the idea of using a little premix in the tank. The last engine didn't last long enough to test to see if it made any difference though. THe second was using just the OMP and 2-stroke oil. Virtually no carbon, no signs of wear after ~4k
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Old 07-10-2009, 07:26 PM   #5
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reason why i want to eliminate it because from what i heard if you eliminate the omp and use the adaptor for the omp you can run synthetic in your engine.
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Old 07-10-2009, 07:46 PM   #6
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your choice...lots of work just to pay more for oil. The options above seem to be the ones to look into. The rotary aviation adapters are new to me though.
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But I've learned that people that don't like guns, tend to like stretched tires.

Which makes perfect sense. They are sacrificing safety either way. lol



Last edited by Phoenix7; 07-10-2009 at 07:50 PM..
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Old 07-10-2009, 09:46 PM   #7
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yeah true. i also need new lines for the omp cant seem to find where to buy them can anyone help?
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:54 PM   #8
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RotorSports Racing Nice and stainless and braided
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2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
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1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


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I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 07-11-2009, 05:51 PM   #9
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Talk about more money for nothing.... I dont understand why you would tell him to get ss braided lines and waste his money when for less than 40 bucks he could rebuild his own like I did. There is virtually no pressure etc in the lines. The ss braided are basically a waste of money except for looks.... and looks are pointless when your hood is down 99% of the time!
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Old 07-11-2009, 07:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zenki7 View Post
Talk about more money for nothing.... I dont understand why you would tell him to get ss braided lines and waste his money when for less than 40 bucks he could rebuild his own like I did. There is virtually no pressure etc in the lines. The ss braided are basically a waste of money except for looks.... and looks are pointless when your hood is down 99% of the time!
yeah. it really doesn't matter i am cheap i like to do stuff for as cheap as possible. can you give me more info on how you made your own?
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Old 07-11-2009, 09:01 PM   #11
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Some people just don't get it.
It has nothing to do with looks. Its time/money in and durability out. Mine will never fail and it took me no time. My billable time to clients was $180-$270/ hour. Can I build lines? Sure. But in 20 minutes? No
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2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 07-11-2009, 11:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
Some people just don't get it.
It has nothing to do with looks. Its time/money in and durability out. Mine will never fail and it took me no time. My billable time to clients was $180-$270/ hour. Can I build lines? Sure. But in 20 minutes? No
dude your car is sick. im lovin that set up. i have my omp removed and am premixin 1/2 oz per gallon because 1oz per gallon fouled my plugs. but from what i hear lately leavin the omp and usin the premix at the same time is a good way to go to as far as engine life
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Old 07-12-2009, 09:47 AM   #13
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I can't really comment on engine life doing it this way because my engines fail for other reasons. Idiots during emmisions tests and clogged fuel filters.

Here's what I've found though.

Using a 2-stroke fed OMP only after ~4k left the rotors with enough carbon that it needed to be cleaned ever so lightly. The blowby on the rotor from a 3/8" missing piece of sideseal was also VERY minimal.

2-stroke fed OMP and 1/2 oz/gal in the tank left the rotors dirtier than the above and the plugs foulded in about 1k miles.

I bought a case of Idemitsu from Bryan @ Rotorsports Racing. This next motor will be fed 2-stroke from the tank with 1/4oz/gal after the initial breakin of 1/2oz/gal.

That's alot of overoiling I know but it'll give me piece of mind. Mainly becuase the OMP map that was datalogged from a stock engined stock ecu'ed car shows very little OMP injection at lower loads/ rpms which is where you spend most of your time at break-in. I'll snap a screen shot of that and post it up so you can see what I mean.

I also plan on data-logging my compression results using a 250psi sender and my Motec M820. Compression tests will be done before start, after 1/2 hour of run time, after 100 miles, and then every 100 miles roughly until I crest the 1000 mile breakin mark. If I see compression start to to fall off, as I did before, then I'll ease up on the 2-stroke in the gas. My last build lost about 15 psi, from 130 after 1/2hr down to 115 after 500 miles of breakin. Nothing was gouged, all the seals looked perfect in the rear (front was the one that warped the Apex's) the only thing that we can think of is that I was just drowning the thing in oil and loosing compression that way. We'll see what happens.
__________________
-The Angry Stig-
DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-

Last edited by TitaniumTT; 07-12-2009 at 09:49 AM..
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Old 07-12-2009, 08:11 PM   #14
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Keep the OMP and run synthetic if you want. NO problems. I have done it and tore down several motors this way with no problems. I run that way now.
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Old 07-13-2009, 11:44 AM   #15
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If you wanna run synthetic so bad just run royal purple. It says on there site is safe for rotaries. It's also what they run in the rotary race cars. It's designed to burn without leaving any ash or residue in the engine to prevent carbon build up.
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