eliminating omp
 

so a friend told me how you can eliminate the omp and there is a thing you can buy that works the same but doesnt use the oil from the engine its in a seperate box. has anyone heard of this?

yes, you can block off the S4 mechanical OMP. The S5 is electrical and will go into limp mode if you disable it. AND YOU MUST PREMIX.

You have a few options:

If you have an S4 then buy the block-off plates and premix.

If you have an S5 then you can get an Rtek and it will remove the OMP codes and can be blocked off.

YOU HAVE TO PREMIX IF YOU REMOVE THE OMP!!!! IF YOU DON'T THEN YOUR MOTOR WILL BE DAMAGED...

THat stuff you asked about is 2-stroke oil, the so-called "premix" I keep talking about....You put ~16oz. per tank IN THE GAS TANK at EVERY FILL UP.

Why do you want to remove the OMP?


Others will chime in with other suggestions.

Have it

Use it

Love it

was actually over oiling my last engine and I was adding a 1/4oz/gal in the gas as well.

First engine I used it on actually started stripping the carbon off of the rotors.

I still like the idea of using a little premix in the tank. The last engine didn't last long enough to test to see if it made any difference though. THe second was using just the OMP and 2-stroke oil. Virtually no carbon, no signs of wear after ~4k

reason why i want to eliminate it because from what i heard if you eliminate the omp and use the adaptor for the omp you can run synthetic in your engine.

your choice...lots of work just to pay more for oil. The options above seem to be the ones to look into. The rotary aviation adapters are new to me though.

yeah true. i also need new lines for the omp cant seem to find where to buy them can anyone help?

RotorSports Racing ;) Nice and stainless and braided

Talk about more money for nothing.... I dont understand why you would tell him to get ss braided lines and waste his money when for less than 40 bucks he could rebuild his own like I did. There is virtually no pressure etc in the lines. The ss braided are basically a waste of money except for looks.... and looks are pointless when your hood is down 99% of the time!

yeah. it really doesn't matter i am cheap i like to do stuff for as cheap as possible. can you give me more info on how you made your own?

Some people just don't get it.
It has nothing to do with looks. Its time/money in and durability out. Mine will never fail and it took me no time. My billable time to clients was $180-$270/ hour. Can I build lines? Sure. But in 20 minutes? No

dude your car is sick. im lovin that set up. i have my omp removed and am premixin 1/2 oz per gallon because 1oz per gallon fouled my plugs. but from what i hear lately leavin the omp and usin the premix at the same time is a good way to go to as far as engine life :)

I can't really comment on engine life doing it this way because my engines fail for other reasons. Idiots during emmisions tests and clogged fuel filters.

Here's what I've found though.

Using a 2-stroke fed OMP only after ~4k left the rotors with enough carbon that it needed to be cleaned ever so lightly. The blowby on the rotor from a 3/8" missing piece of sideseal was also VERY minimal.

2-stroke fed OMP and 1/2 oz/gal in the tank left the rotors dirtier than the above and the plugs foulded in about 1k miles.

I bought a case of Idemitsu from Bryan @ Rotorsports Racing. This next motor will be fed 2-stroke from the tank with 1/4oz/gal after the initial breakin of 1/2oz/gal.

That's alot of overoiling I know but it'll give me piece of mind. Mainly becuase the OMP map that was datalogged from a stock engined stock ecu'ed car shows very little OMP injection at lower loads/ rpms which is where you spend most of your time at break-in. I'll snap a screen shot of that and post it up so you can see what I mean.

I also plan on data-logging my compression results using a 250psi sender and my Motec M820. Compression tests will be done before start, after 1/2 hour of run time, after 100 miles, and then every 100 miles roughly until I crest the 1000 mile breakin mark. If I see compression start to to fall off, as I did before, then I'll ease up on the 2-stroke in the gas. My last build lost about 15 psi, from 130 after 1/2hr down to 115 after 500 miles of breakin. Nothing was gouged, all the seals looked perfect in the rear (front was the one that warped the Apex's) the only thing that we can think of is that I was just drowning the thing in oil and loosing compression that way. We'll see what happens.

Here's my OMP map, you can see the stepper max's ~20% duty for a the first few hundred miles of breakin, kinda worrysome. Like I said, this map was derived from datalogging the position of a stock OMP on a stock ECU soooooooo this is what the factory calls for for OMP injection.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1247411422

Go to Corbincorp.com
Order this part # 48701031 through MSC, which is the tubing make sure as the quantity you put it in as it were feet.... I ordered 10 in quantity therefore I got 10 feet. I did this just incase I screwed up something!

The clamps are part number 48547962 they are two ear clamps.

Simply remove your lines and keep track of where each banjo came from.

Other than than the lines and clamps are garbage.....
I took a dremel and cut a line over the old clamps and spread it apart so it just cracked open and pulled the old line off... Be careful not to cut or damge the old banjos!!!! you will need those !!!

Take your new lines and put TWO EAR CLAMPS on the lines put the MATCHING Banjos on take one clamp and clamp it down on the banjo and repeat on the other side.... There ya go one new line! Repeat the process until you have all four done! It took me like 20 minutes to redo these lines. And it cost me about 1/3 of what a SS line costs... so I took the leftover money and invested it into other parts like a new waterpump and thermostat and also I grabbed a block off plate kit....

Cut your new line into four lengths. These are advised just to have to extra room.
Cut 1 13.5" this one will bolt onto the TOP LEFT bolt on the OMP and go to the FRONT HOUSING

2nd will be 22.5" long and this one will bolt to the BOTTOM LEFT of the OMP and go to the REAR HOUSING

3rd cut will be 16" long this will bolt to the TOP RIGHT on the OMP and go to the FRONT INTAKE MANIFOLD

4th cut will be 22" long and bolt to the BOTTOM RIGHT on the OMP and go to the REAR INTAKE MANIFOLD

REMEMBER THE HOUSINGS HAVE THE SHORT INJECTORS
THE MANIFOLD HAS THE LONG INJECTORS!
(you cant really mess this up because the long one will not go all the way in on the housing but just some advise in advance)

Here is my motor with the new lines on it...
Btw if you go to any search engine and type Rebuilding the OMP Oil injector lines you will find a crap load of write ups and probably the write up I used...

GOOD LUCK AND BE SMART, SAFE WHEN WORKING ON YOUR MOTOR AND SMART WITH YOUR MONEY!

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i2...gine/Motor.jpg