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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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04-24-2009, 07:25 PM | #1 |
Rotorhead
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How to ground you N/A FC ver. 1
Hey folks I am thinking of making a sticky Faq here for everyone who has added grounds and or cleaned them.. let me know what you know about grounds... I will be collecting info from other sites and posting the write-ups, and links to the orginal link.
So post away what you know about ground and the benefits you have..
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Currently running: 90 GTUs converted to S5 TurboII. Track car. 90 N/A GTUs.. Running project car 89 N/A GTUs in Black #2 10/6/18 Blown coolant seal undergoing rebuild and restomod. |
04-25-2009, 04:36 PM | #2 |
Sigh.....
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I'm a believer of just cleaning the factory grounds. The ones on my car have worked for the past 23 years so I kind of doubt I would need to add more. The only time I suggest adding a ground is for the 3800 rpm hesitation. However, that only applies to '86 and, I think, up to '87.5 cars.
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
04-25-2009, 05:08 PM | #3 |
Start a Revolution
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I ran 2 wires from B- to the tab on the firewall that runs to the top of the engine for the pcm ground. I still have the slight 3800 hesitation that I've always had.
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That to secure these rights, Governments are instituted among Men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed, — That whenever any Form of Government becomes destructive of these ends, it is the Right of the People to alter or to abolish it, and to institute new Government -The United Stated Declaration of Independence |
04-25-2009, 09:17 PM | #4 |
Sigh.....
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The 3800 hesitation is due to a specific ground, namely the one coming off the pressure sensor (in the engine bay). You can either reground right next to the ECU, or do what I did and splice in a new ground to that wire in the engine bay.
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
04-25-2009, 06:10 PM | #5 | ||
Rotary Fanatic
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there is a tech article i wrote in general info that has all to do with grounds. i quick smear of di-electric grease on ground points will ensure they dont corrode
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04-30-2009, 12:19 PM | #6 |
Reliable Source
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I just wire wheeled all the factory grounds and ran a semi thick gauge wire between all of them that loops from engine group to ECU ground. no hesitation here!
I also did re ground the map sensor too. |
04-30-2009, 03:55 PM | #7 |
Blue Blur
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Which wire on the pressure sensor is the ground? Is it the black one with the white stripe? Im assuming it is being as black is usually ground but i dont want to go ground the wrong wire lol.
EDIT: Found a diagram, no more hesitaion YAY!! Last edited by Rx-7fetish; 04-30-2009 at 05:52 PM.. |
04-30-2009, 06:36 PM | #8 |
Pirate
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I would like to chime in: I cleaned my grounds, however the wire inside the insulation and the insualtion itself were in such terrible shape, I had to unwrap the engine wiring harness, cut out a large section of the ground wire (including both on-engine ground terminals) and solder in new wire and B-Crimp (OEM style crimping method) ground terminals. This is an exteme case however.
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Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! |
04-30-2009, 07:19 PM | #10 |
Clean S4 Nutswinger
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Kind of a stupid question (I'm an electrical noob lol), but for the pressure sensor reground, do you basically just cut the wire, and solder the ends back together with a 3rd wire added to the joint, and ground that 3rd wire?
Like this?
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-Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress. |
05-01-2009, 09:43 AM | #11 |
Sigh.....
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Yeah. I would also suggest cleaning the factory ground point as well.
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
05-04-2009, 06:26 PM | #12 |
rotard
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i did the hks circle earth system, gold plate to negative battery with 6 wires coming off to engine, one to each of the housings and one to each of the irons
and one to the main harness ground. i have no hesitation at any point, and no more bogging from starts. this is in my 90 GTUs
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pissed off?being that close to a rotary, id say youd be pist-on |
05-06-2009, 07:00 AM | #13 | ||
Test Whore - Admin
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The housings are key for good spark so I would definately ground those, as well the ECU points, housings, waterpump housing, TPS, pressure sensor, and maybe the MAF. Everything should be common and leading to a GOOD chassis ground or to the battery. When I did mine I started with an 8 gauge grounded by the ECU that spiderwebbed out with CRIMPS (NOT solder) to hit all the key points.
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