domestic guy looking into making the switch

[ExiledBrownCoat]

Hey guys. I joined this forum cause I'm normally a domestic guy but I've always been really interested in the rotary engine. next month I'm looking at buying an FC when I get some money together. I love the look of them. I will admit I am kinda nervous of the idea I've never worked on a rotary (I am a mechanic but at u-haul fixing their trucks) and I've never driven one. I don't know if I'll fit in one (I'm 6'2" not very tall but I'm still up there). Also I'm from the south east VA area.

[GySgtFrank]

Welcome to the rotary world. Warning. It becomes an addiction. If you've never driven one they're a whole different breed of cat. Low on torque, but once you hit 3 - 4000 rpm they are one heck of a lot of fun, rev like there's no tomorrow. The FC is better on room than the FBs and shouldn't be a problem. An RX-7 is not as easy to get in and out of as a pickup truck, it's more like putting on a pair of jeans. Once in, they're plenty comfortable. There are quite a few guys in the Va. area you can call on for help if needed.

[ExiledBrownCoat]

well I was driving a 87 scirocco for a little while. so I've started learning how to get in and out of tiny cars. What kind of mileage can you see out of a FC either NA or boosted. I travel only about 20 miles a day (back and forth from work) which currently with my truck is killing me cause I'm only getting 12 mpg. I've heard that stock I'll see around 20 mpg. If that's the case I am happy. My plan is to buy one and use it as a daily while at the same time slowly building an engine that will be my "beast" so that 3-5 years down the road I can get another daily and put the new engine into it. Does that sound smart? I would love to get an idea of the handling I've only driven RWD trucks and FWD cars not a RWD car so that spokes me just a little.

[GySgtFrank]

I've transplanted a NA 13B FC in my 1st Gen. I'm still messing with tune and it's definitely running a little rich, injectors I believe. The last tankful I was getting 26mpg. I've heard of guys getting as much as 30+ NA. I don't know under what conditions though. From listening to others mid 20s is pretty typical NA, turbos of course use more.
The handling is one of the shining points for Mazda. Perfect weight distribution in a light car makes for a fun time and RWD is the only way to go for handling, which is why most serious race teams run that way. They're a reliable engine if you take care of them. Don't ever run them low on oil or coolant. The oil is part of the cooling system. If you overheat a rotary you'll blow the seals. The engine is mostly just seals. Unless something is broken/damaged rebuilding one is mainly seal replacement (and mic'ing everything to make sure it's still in spec), little to no machining needed. An extra engine around is never a bad idea, for any car.

[ExiledBrownCoat]

well hopefully here soon I'll have myself a FC.

[RETed]

If you're looking for gas mileage, look elsewhere...
Be warned.
These things are not very efficient.
Typical city driving will reward you with about 15mpg.
With a turbo engine, it'll go down faster - 10-12mpg is not uncommon on higher powered set-up's.
Add freeway driving, and gas mileage should shoot up.
Don't expect 30's though - 20-25mpg is more realistic.
There are tricks to getting gas mileage #'s like this.

I'm 6'1" and don't have too much trouble getting in and out of the car.
If you go racing and require a helmet, then it's a whole nother ballgame.
For proper seating position and comfort, be prepared to go with an aftermarket steering wheel + hub + spacer.
I've found that a 2" spacer + aftermarket steering wheel makes it a lot more comfortable ride.
My inseam is about 31".
Most FC's come with generous tilt adjustment for your comfort.


-Ted

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by RETed

Add freeway driving, and gas mileage should shoot up.
Don't expect 30's though - 20-25mpg is more realistic.
There are tricks to getting gas mileage #'s like this.

Yep, I should have stated that my mileage was highway not city.

[ExiledBrownCoat]

it's not so much as I want super fantastic awesome gas mileage just that I want better than my truck I can do 20 mpg on the highway for me round trip to work and back is about 22 miles almost all highway with just a little city driving. My current truck gets 12 mpg on the highway and maybe 8 in the city so anything is an upgrade.

[Rich@SR]

I'm a former Mustang guy, I've had a '95 and '98 Cobra. It's a completely different feel but definitely a blast to drive. And awesome to work on, you just have to get in there and tear down/build once and you'll have the hang of it. Good luck with it.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Rich@SR

I'm a former Mustang guy, I've had a '95 and '98 Cobra. It's a completely different feel but definitely a blast to drive. And awesome to work on, you just have to get in there and tear down/build once and you'll have the hang of it. Good luck with it.

Depends on how high you're going with power, rev's and how long you want the engine to last. We've built n/a race engines with parts pulled from other blown engines and made 185+rwhp. Then again everytime I break something, I learn a few tricks, or try a few different things to make the next engine better than the last. Building an n/a engine that you don't care about it lasting vs building a 500+rwhp turbo monster that will last years are two entirely different things.

Not to mention, we have a few housing here that customers ported who had previously built their own engines and they are beyond laughable... hell, we have a b-port renni here from someone who fancies himself bdc and even that porting was goof for about 20 minutes of 5 guys pointing and laughing. Then to add insult to injury, his "machining" (drill press and a 3/4" drill bit I'd imagine) ruined the plates, as if his porting didn't already, and just to seal the deal, his instructions for engine assembly in a full b-port were, "I don't know which way the assist piece should go, towards the primary or the secondary, try both and see which works"

People who have built full bridges know why neither will work

So saying you can build one and get the hang of it is a little bit of a stretch.

[Pettersen]

I'm 6'2" and i fit just fine, even with a helmet, but as someone mentioned furter up, spacing out the steeringwheel probably isn't a bad idea. + i don't have a sunroof, i imagine that if i had a sunroof i would have trouble sitting in the car with a helmet.

My FC has a stock S4 NA engine, i daily drive and i get a steady 20mpg, have seen 24mpg but not often. That's probably one third city driving and the rest highway(or the Norwegian version anyway, many hills and turns), and i don't try to get low mpg.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by Pettersen

I'm 6'2" and i fit just fine, even with a helmet, but as someone mentioned furter up, spacing out the steeringwheel probably isn't a bad idea. + i don't have a sunroof, i imagine that if i had a sunroof i would have trouble sitting in the car with a helmet.

Lucky...
All US-spec "Turbo II" models have standard sunroofs, so we have no say. :P
We lose about 20mm - 30mm due to the stupid sunroof assembly.
I absolutely do not fit properly with a racing helmet and stock seat.


-Ted

[Rich@SR]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Depends on how high you're going with power, rev's and how long you want the engine to last. We've built n/a race engines with parts pulled from other blown engines and made 185+rwhp. Then again everytime I break something, I learn a few tricks, or try a few different things to make the next engine better than the last. Building an n/a engine that you don't care about it lasting vs building a 500+rwhp turbo monster that will last years are two entirely different things.

Not to mention, we have a few housing here that customers ported who had previously built their own engines and they are beyond laughable... hell, we have a b-port renni here from someone who fancies himself bdc and even that porting was goof for about 20 minutes of 5 guys pointing and laughing. Then to add insult to injury, his "machining" (drill press and a 3/4" drill bit I'd imagine) ruined the plates, as if his porting didn't already, and just to seal the deal, his instructions for engine assembly in a full b-port were, "I don't know which way the assist piece should go, towards the primary or the secondary, try both and see which works"

People who have built full bridges know why neither will work

So saying you can build one and get the hang of it is a little bit of a stretch.

Calm down killer lol, I was speaking from more of a "rebuild" and learn about how the rotary works prospective. Not building a 500+ HP monster right out of the box. It doesn't take that much to do a tear down and successful rebuild on these. He said he was nervous about the idea of working on a rotary, as was I, before I took my first one apart.

Obviously, no matter what engine, it takes skill to build power with more than bolt-ons.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by RETed

Lucky...
All US-spec "Turbo II" models have standard sunroofs, so we have no say. :P
We lose about 20mm - 30mm due to the stupid sunroof assembly.
I absolutely do not fit properly with a racing helmet and stock seat.


-Ted

HEY! Watch it.... I love my sunroofs! Just today in the pouring rain I was driving 75 down the highway with it open

And I had to drive 800+miles to get my FD because it had a sunroof

Originally Posted by Rich@SR

Calm down killer lol, I was speaking from more of a "rebuild" and learn about how the rotary works prospective. Not building a 500+ HP monster right out of the box. It doesn't take that much to do a tear down and successful rebuild on these. He said he was nervous about the idea of working on a rotary, as was I, before I took my first one apart.

Obviously, no matter what engine, it takes skill to build power with more than bolt-ons.

I understand... I just don't want him to start thinking like alot of people do, hey, it's only got 3 moving parts, it's simple! Then they wonder why thier $500 rebuild with a $400 ebay turbo blows up...

To do a stock rebuild, more time will be spent cleaning than mic'ing and fitting seals, yes I agree, and a stock rebuild is pretty simple.... but like I said, I think there are tyoo many people that think, oh, 3 parts, piece of cake....

[ExiledBrownCoat]

ok well first things first I would be getting a second engine for the purpose of learning which means that first it would need to be built/rebuilt then I'll look into doing any mods. I want to be slow and steady with any mods I do to the car for 2 reasons 1. I want to make sure they are done exactly right. I'm a perfectionist when it comes to engines taking almost 3 months to work out a basic blueprint/parts list for the 350 Chevy small block build I had planned. and 2. I'm not used to high performance driving there's no point to putting a 300+ HP engine into a car if I don't know how to drive it. Hopefully those two points will lessen your fear of me doing something stupid to the engine