60-1 Aftermarket coolant hookup q.

[vex]

I thought the turbo had to be connected in series to function properly?

I got my universal coolant kit from Turbonetics yesterday and they attach in parallel. Is that normal?

I'm just curious. I'll use the setup they gave me cause it's really nice, but I was just wondering if people usually run turbo setups like that or if they run them in series.

[Boostmaniac]

Could you post a pic of this setup? I know turbo's, but I have no idea what the hell you are talking about whatsoever.

[vex]

You'll have to forgive the ms paint pictures. Best I can do right now.

[Phoenix7]

You're talking about coolant lines to the turbo? Pics? I don't know what you're talking about.

[vex]

Originally Posted by phoenix7

You're talking about coolant lines to the turbo? Pics? I don't know what you're talking about.

Yes coolant lines. Those ^^ are the best I can do right now.

[Phoenix7]

ok, so you're saying that the stock ones are mounted in series but your kit mounts it parallel.

THe stocker is connected to the water pump and the other line goes into the block.
Water line to the block: Water flows from motor to turbo.


here is the hose that provides water from the pump:

[Phoenix7]

Does this help^^^?

[vex]

Originally Posted by phoenix7

Does this help^^^?

Actually that explains it perfectly. That is a parallel setup, ie: it is not in-line with the rest of the system.

The only reason I assumed it should be in series is because Aaron Cake mounted his in series with the throttle body lines. The kit should be fine. I'll post picks of the kit later tonight so everyone can understand a little bit more.

[classicauto]

If this is going on a turbo engine, just connect one side to the LIM coolant feed (just under the EGR) and one to the bottom fitting on the water pump (an N/A pump doesn't have a nipple cast into it)

If its going on an N/A you'll need to get creative, but I would run the rear iron's coolant nipple to one side of the turbo, then the other side of it to a drilled/tapped nipple on the lower water pump inlet.

[vex]

Originally Posted by classicauto

If its going on an N/A you'll need to get creative, but I would run the rear iron's coolant nipple to one side of the turbo, then the other side of it to a drilled/tapped nipple on the lower water pump inlet.

It is going on an NA. The kit I have allows for connection from the inlet pipe for the coolant going to the cabin and the outlet pipe going from the cabin to be tapped for coolant. This doesn't affect the current coolant path, but puts in a detour that coolant and travel to to help cool the turbo.

[Phoenix7]

I forgot about your NA to turbo mod. Good luck, take LOTS of PICS!

[vex]

Originally Posted by phoenix7

I forgot about your NA to turbo mod. Good luck, take LOTS of PICS!

LOL, no worries. I'm trying to locate my sisters camera so I can actually take pictures of the kit.... But I can't. I still need to take a picture of the Bumper Support Bar for what's his bucket. Man, I'm totally slacking....

Now the real question is if I want to leave the short block in my car while I do the wire and pipe tuck too... hmmmm... I think I might.

[Phoenix7]

I don't know what you mean by tucking your wires. What wires can you hide?

ANyone have a pic of a "tucked" car.

[vex]

Originally Posted by phoenix7

I don't know what you mean by tucking your wires. What wires can you hide?

ANyone have a pic of a "tucked" car.

I'm planning on using a bulkhead connection and moving the engine harness to directly over the transmission. This will effectively limit the wires you see coming to and from the engine.

I'm further going to mount the body harness either through conduit or through the frame.

I'm planning on also eliminating a majority of the HVAC lines that are strewn throughout the engine bay. I'll also modify the cabin units to accept the connections via bulkheads.

On top of that I shall also move the engine bay fuse box somewhere else if not replace it completely withan after market fuse case.

I'm also planning on moving the coils to inside the cabin and using a passthrough bulkhead connection to power the spark plugs. Alternatively I would use direct spark ignition if I had a stand alone yet (either next semester or later this semester--we shall see).

I will also be pulling the AAS cables and tossing them since I've installed my teins.

There's a few other things I'll need to think about on how to hide/modify them, but for the most part I think that's about it. I'm debating on if I should get some new hydrolic lines constructed to replace the stock ones and run them similar to how the HVAC lines will be run.

The reason why I want to clean up the engine bay, besides asthetics, it will be remarkably easier to pull the engine in the future. I will also be able to isolate and find specific leaks quicker than before. I will also be able to have more room to work with to fit a bigger radiator and any other parts I deem necessary. Those are just a few of the reasons.

Alot of people have done partial wire tucks, but really it's something that's only been really popular over on honda techs. I've already relocated my battery so the other stuff should be similiar. The car will be down for a few months anyways while I install the turbo and what not, so I might as well clean up the bay and make it nice and pretty.

I'll just dig up my other tech thread and append the details over there.

[Boostmaniac]

This thread is full of stuff that confuses me and makes me want to cry a little bit.

I need pics.

Or I'll cry.

I swear I will.