Greddy type S Bov valve... properly installed? pics inside!

[Jonathan3009]

Hi, All

well as some1 of you know... I've bought few time ago an Rx7... it's RHD and when it has arrived from japan... dealer told me that Bov valves were bypassed... so as far as i know... bov's improves the turbos lifetime... and I've asked him to intall one before to pick the car up...

then next day when I've received the car... they've installed a greddy bov..

20111102_123505.jpg

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But after researching on web... i found that many bov's are installed on a different position...

and maybe my bov is wrongly installed... so if some1 has the same bov.. maybe can help me...

and there is 1 bolt that says "soft" "hard" it's for???...

also i found this

20111102_123752.jpg

one pipe of the airnix air intake is capped... it's ok? or...

thx for your help!

[PercentSevenC]

Can't tell where it connects to from the pics. If it's connected to the y-pipe as I assume it is, you're fine. Looks like the vacuum line is hooked up right.

The "soft" and "hard" screw is for adjusting the preload on the spring. As long as the valve is closed at idle and opens when you let off the throttle under boost, it's fine. Some people have it open slightly at idle, too, but let's keep it simple.

The capped pipe on the intake is for the factory "BOV". Since yours is vented to atmosphere, you don't need to worry about it.

[Jonathan3009]

Originally Posted by PercentSevenC

Can't tell where it connects to from the pics. If it's connected to the y-pipe as I assume it is, you're fine. Looks like the vacuum line is hooked up right.

The "soft" and "hard" screw is for adjusting the preload on the spring. As long as the valve is closed at idle and opens when you let off the throttle under boost, it's fine. Some people have it open slightly at idle, too, but let's keep it simple.

The capped pipe on the intake is for the factory "BOV". Since yours is vented to atmosphere, you don't need to worry about it.

hi!, thx! for your help... now my doubt is about that screw... as I've mentioned... I don't know if those guys has ajusted the spring properly... u think as soon as i get my boost gauge... I'm gonna check the boost pressure and boost pattern and see if there is something wrong...

just I'm not sure about what kind of boost gauge should i get.. if electrical or mechanical... or any good brand...

[PercentSevenC]

Just fire up the car, and turn the screw it until the valve is just barely closed at idle. Done.

As for the boost gauge... well, I'm running a $20 Sunpro mechanical gauge and it works great. But that's not nearly expensive enough to satisfy most FD guys.

[Jonathan3009]

Originally Posted by PercentSevenC

Just fire up the car, and turn the screw it until the valve is just barely closed at idle. Done.

As for the boost gauge... well, I'm running a $20 Sunpro mechanical gauge and it works great. But that's not nearly expensive enough to satisfy most FD guys.

well... I'm looking for best accuracy... if a sunpro mechanical does the job... i think im gonna get one too.... but researching i found splitted opinions about... electricals... and almost all ppl recommends a good brand for the boost gauge... but if im gonna get the same accuracy for less bucks... same for me...

[PercentSevenC]

I compared the readings of my Sunpro gauge to an Auto Meter one, and they both read more or less the same. Good enough for me.

I figure there are good places and bad places to spend money, and a boost gauge is a bad place to spend a lot of money. It's just there so you can spot major problems quickly; if your tune relies on the accuracy of your eyes watching an analog boost gauge, you're doing it terribly, terribly wrong.

The only "premium" features that might be interesting are peak recall and warning, but those aren't necessary if you've got a proper tune, as a good tune will cut fuel if boost ever hits dangerous levels.

[Force13b]

Originally Posted by PercentSevenC

I compared the readings of my Sunpro gauge to an Auto Meter one, and they both read more or less the same. Good enough for me.

I figure there are good places and bad places to spend money, and a boost gauge is a bad place to spend a lot of money. It's just there so you can spot major problems quickly; if your tune relies on the accuracy of your eyes watching an analog boost gauge, you're doing it terribly, terribly wrong.

The only "premium" features that might be interesting are peak recall and warning, but those aren't necessary if you've got a proper tune, as a good tune will cut fuel if boost ever hits dangerous levels.

I'd rather have ignition cut then fuel cut i don't want a lean condition.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by Force13b

I'd rather have ignition cut then fuel cut i don't want a lean condition.

In theory, it would make sense...

Just with Haltech products, I would rather have the fuel cut.
The fuel cut is milder versus the ignition cut.
Remember, if you cut the fuel past the point of combustion, nothing happens in the engine.
With the ignition cut, you have intermittent spark events with the proper fuel, so you get nasty resonances - i.e. possible bearing damage - whenever this happens.


-Ted

[Jonathan3009]

Rx7 has fuel cut???? hitting fuel cut is bad for rotary engines???????

On my LS vtec... i can hit fuel cut without any problem but in rotaries... im pretty scare to do that... Im correct... or...

[Force13b]

Originally Posted by Jonathan3009

Rx7 has fuel cut???? hitting fuel cut is bad for rotary engines???????

On my LS vtec... i can hit fuel cut without any problem but in rotaries... im pretty scare to do that... Im correct... or...

From the way ted put it no. The stock ecu has fuel cut at 12psi, you should not go past 10 on a stock ecu. Honda motor and a Mazda rotory motor are worlds apart.

[Force13b]

Originally Posted by RETed

In theory, it would make sense...

Just with Haltech products, I would rather have the fuel cut.
The fuel cut is milder versus the ignition cut.
Remember, if you cut the fuel past the point of combustion, nothing happens in the engine.
With the ignition cut, you have intermittent spark events with the proper fuel, so you get nasty resonances - i.e. possible bearing damage - whenever this happens.


-Ted

I've always thought ignition cut was better, learn something everyday. I run a haltech and just updated to 1.08 i'll have to check what cut i have.

[PercentSevenC]

Fuel cut is much easier on the motor (not to mention the turbo and exhaust system). You don't have to worry about detonation if you cut ALL the fuel.